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an eyeglass in Uttoxeter, being thereby Mother abhors the tyrannical custom of endowed, according to Nanny, with a seizing men by force for service on the power more malignant than that of the ships of war, and, full of compassion, con evil eye! His wife had deserted him for sents to bis concealment. The king's a fiddler after studying “ The Sorrows of officer with his men search the vessel. He Werther," and her framed and glazed il.

opens the door of mother's cabin, lustrations of Goethe's romance and apparently much out of humor, ad. often looked at by us, for they had become vances cutlass in hand. Mother, looking the property of Thomas Bishop the clog. up from her book or work, begs him to maker, who was our father's factotum. respect the privacy of her cabin. The With what excitement did we note any captain of the press-gang makes a sign to interchange of civility between mother and his men to stand back; but says "he Mrs. Clowes, the widow of a clergyman, is bound to do his duty; a man is miss and who styled herself in consequence the ing, whom he has reason to suppose is Rev. Anne Clowes. Although she was on board, therefore

Mother, out known by everybody, and was an honored wardly calm but inwardly terribly alarmed, if not an acceptable guest in the best interrupts him with the words, “ I am a houses of the neighborhood, she lived lady travelling alone, you are a gentle quite alone in a narrow alley, without a man." These words seem to disarm him. bell or knocker to her house door, on He offers a polite apology, and retiring, which her friends were instructed to rap quits the vessel with his men.

loudly with a stone. She occupied an The moment they are gone the captain upper room confusedly crowded with gives orders to sail. The rescued sailor goods and chattels of every description creeps from his hiding.place, but is not picked up at auctions, and piles of crockery allowed to show himself till they are out and china, having the casements filled with

He becomes mother's devoted at- as many pieces of rag, pasteboard, and tendant during the long and stormy pas cobwebs as small panes of glass. She sage which ensues; whilst she, the only slept in a large salting trough, with a female on board, receives extreme con switch at her side to keep off the rats. sideration from the captain and the entire This mean and miserable abode she crew, who regard her as a general bene. termed, in her grandiloquent language, factress.

“the hallowed spot into which only were I can to this day smile at her anecdote introduced the great in mind, in wealth, or of the mayor and corporation of Looe, birth;" and on one occasion spoke of who when ordered by the War Office to "a most delightful visit from two of Lord prepare for an expected French invasion, Waterpark's sons, when the feast of requested, in consideration of the small. reason and the flow of soul'had been so ness of the town, "to construct a twenti: absorbing, that one, Mr. Cavendish, in fication instead of a fortification,” and ac- descending the stairs had set his foot in cordingly erected a fort of twenty guns, her mutton pie, which was ready for the which, as mother would remark, "remains oven." Each Whitsuntide we saw her to this day."

marching at the head of the Odd Fellows' During these hours of unrestrained con. Club, with a bouquet of lilacs and peonies verse, she would become lively, almost blazing on her breast up to her chin, holdmerry, even silently laughing. It was a ing in one hand a long staff, ber usual revelation of her character quite new to out-door companion. She was not insane, us, and we were happy under its influence. only a very original person, running wild Our naturally quick, receptive faculties, amongst a number of other eccentric deprived of the amusement of ordinary worthies, all of whom left indelible imchildren, became wonderfully sharpened pressions on our minds. by mother's graphic, bealthy tales, by One summer we felt brought into very Nanny's wild, strange communications, in close contact with the gay world by a visit vesting even our dull surroundings with a from Aunt Dorothy Sylvester. She aclife and charm, and whilst occasioning us companied mother from London, where often to put our own or Nanny's construc- the latter had attended Yearly Meeting, tion on the actions of our neighbors, mak. and as they arrived late one Seventh-day ing us realize their dispositions and sym- night, she was first seen by us children pathize with their needs.

the next morning, fashionably attired for With what shrinking curiosity, for in. church, which drew forth the exclamation stance, did we regard Mr. Humphrey from one of us: “Oh, aunt, shan't thou

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CHAPLAIN AT BATAVIA.

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IV.

be afraid of father seeing thee so smart ? " We suon perceived that he and mother, THE KRAKATOA ERUPTION. whilst adhering to their rule of life, did not obtrude it on their visitor. They BY THE REV. PHILIP NEALE, LATE BRITISH offered her the best that their house contained, and in her honor gave little enter. tainments to "worldly people" of their acquaintance. At a farewell party we did LEAVING Bantam Bay — a spot more pot admire a tall, thin lady introduced to beautiful than healthy - behind us, we our sober family circle as aunt's travelling retraced our steps to the little town of companion to London, with mincing ways Serang. It was a long, dark drive, and and sentimental drawl, in a gauzy trans- we were very thankful when our tired parent costume, but approved of aunt, a ponies brought us back once more to the stately lady in rich silk gown and elabo-friendly shelter of the hotel from which rate turban of gold tissue; being still we had started in the afternoon, and which more impressed by mother's calm self. we had then arranged should be our restpossession, and the quiet grace with which ing-place for the night. The Dutch have she maintained in her brown camlet and a fancy for dining late in the evening – white muslin cap her peculiarities as a generally about eight or half past - and Friend — her soft silk gowns of neutral so there was plenty of time to wait betints were carefully folded away on the fore dinner was announced. When at shelves of her wardrobe, for father disap- length it came we had the novelty of dinproved of silk.

ing off Bantam fowls, reared in their own In the following November a great native district. It did not take us long event occurred, a baby sister was born, to come to the conclusion that, whatever and called Emma. We had hitherto been their merits for breeding purposes may two sisters, now we were three. Our as- be, Bantam fowls are no better on a din. tonishment and delight over the sweet, ner table than any other, and to hungry blue-eyed little creature was unbounded. travellers like ourselves they certainly Eighteen months quietly passed away, had the serious drawback of being very and again fresh surprises awaited us. diminutive in size. One First-day at the close of afternoon Knowing that a hard day's work awaited meeting our parents were mysteriously us on the morrow, combined with a very summoned from the meeting.house door early start, we were soon glad to creep to visit father's old half-brother, Joseph, into our mosquito-curtained beds, and get who, being a confirmed invalid for many a good nighi's rest. The thermometer years, we had never seen. An hour later, was at its normal height of nocturnal heat we two children were fetched from home, (about 80°). It naturally sounds rather too and taken for the first time into a large, hot to be pleasant, but it is surprising gloomy house, along mysterious passages, how very soon one gets accustomed to into a dimly lighted chamber. Our par. sleeping in such a high temperature, espeents were sitting there in solemn silence cially considering the moist, clammy heat on either side of an armchair, in which which prevails in all parts of Java. It reclined a large-limbed but fearfully ema. may be that this is owing to the even ciated, pallid old man. We were taken up range of the thermometer ihroughout the to him, he spoke to us in a feeble, husky year, which never alters in either summer voice, then, like an aged patriarch, placed or winter - if tropical seasons can be so a trembling hand on each of our heads designated — or it may be owing to the and blessed us. We were then quietly led lofty and well-ventilated character of the away, our parents remaining with him. sleeping apartments; but certain it is that

The next morning we were told that good, sound, refreshing sleep can be had Uncle Joseph had died in the night; a few in Java far more regularly than one would mornings later that a little brother had expect. At any rate, on this occasion we been born to us the preceding night. found the night far too short, for it was And amidst the amazement and yet unde. scarcely four o'clock when we were sum. veloped joy involuntarily arose the ques. moned to prepare for our second day of tion, Will our parents like it? for we had exploration. the impression that they did not approve By the light of a kerosene lamp we of boys. The doubt speedily vanished; sat down – long before daybreak — to a their infant son, who was nained Charles, wretched breakfast. It consisted of bread was evidently their peculiar pride and de- and butter, cold eggs, which had been light.

cooked over nigbt, and a trifle stale as well,

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while, instead of tea or coffee, the only bev- Whilst the choice of a suitable convey. erage provided was soda-water, calied by ance was being made we had been waiting the natives, on account of its effervescing in the hotel at Tji-legon, a building which nature, ayer blanda, or fire-water. With bore serious traces of the damage caused such untempting viands before us we did by the eruption. This hotel, in its maonot linger long over our morning meal, agement, brings a remarkable Java custom and it was still quite dark when we made to light. It is kept up at the expense of

The first part of our journey the Dutch government, and is under the lay along the main post-road once more, direction of an official appointed by them. and so our travelling carriage of the pre- In this and other remote districts of the vious day was again brought into use. island, where there are not sufficient travOur Batavian driver was still on the box, ellers to make it worth a man's while to but the ponies and runners were pro- become an hotel-keeper, the government vided fresh for each stage. A little undertakes the management of the estab. awkwardness occurred here with one of lishment, and bears whatever annual loss the ponies. The Serang stables had pro there may be. Owing to this piece of duced an animal notorious for jibbing - forethought, the traveller in Java freone which, as the driver told us, would quently meets with some of the best acrather be cut to pieces than make the commodation in the most unlikely disjourney to Kramat-watoe – and it was tricts. The official in charge showed us only after some trouble and delay that a the marks, both ioside and outside the start was effected. However, when once building, which the eruption had caused. our team was off there was no cause for The pillars in the front portico were incomplaint, and the next halting-stage was jured considerably, and the heavy ash rain reached in less than half an hour.

had left some ugly stains on many parts It was now almost light, so rapidly does of the whitewashed walls and outside vethe sun seem to rise in the tropics. From randabs. The darkness on the two days total darkness to perfect daylight there is of the outburst had been intense, and we only an interval of three-quarters of an were told that the abject terror of the nahour. And there is just the same rapid tives in the village and neighborhood had change in the evening after sunset, there been piteous to see. being scarcely any twilight. At Tji-legon, On my way to Merak I had for my at the end of the second stage from Se companion in the ka-har a young man rang, we came to the last of our posting: from Anjer - one of the few who escaped We could go no farther, for the best of all on the fatal morning. He had been die reasons, “because there was no road," as rected to meet us at Serang on the previ. a Dutch official naïvely informed us, and ous afternoon, and now acted as our guide on further inquiry we learnt that on the for the day. The narrative of bis escape two remaining stages so much damage was full of interest, and some parts of it, had been done as to render posting quite I think, are worth being repeated. out of the question. We therefore bad “On the Monday morning on which once more to exchange our comfortable Anjer was destroyed,” he said, " I had a travelling carriage for the inconvenient suspicion that something dreadful was conveyance to which I have before re. likely to happen. Of course I had no ferred - the native ka.har. The vehicles clear idea on the subject, and never for a in this district presented a most dilapi. moment supposed that it would be a great dated and broken down appearance, with wave that would do all the mischiet. I ponies to match ; but of course Krakatoa had heard the deafening reports from Krais not to be saddled with the blame of katoa on Sunday afternoon, and had seen this. Broken springs, rotten harness, and later on the dense black smoke and the worn-out ponies gave one the impression glare of fiery light resting upon the sumthat they had fared very badly in the re- mit of the volcano. Still we all hoped for cent eruption, but one of the owners the best. But on the following morning, regretfully assured us that such was not when the darkness remained instead of the case, or else he should have had a light, and the shower of ashes increased, heavy claim for compensation from the I grew more alarmed. It seemed to me Relief Committee. Aided by the mandoer that if matters got worse we should be (or head waiter) of the hotel, we made a completely buried by falling lava, as bargain for the best two vehicles in the some of the places in olden times were, place, and prepared to start off in the di- and that a dreadful death awaited us if rection of one of the ruined towas called we remained in the town. I therefore Merak.

thought it best to get as far away from

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Krakatoa as possible. It was still quite | rior of the island. All the natives in the early when I decided upon making for the neighboring kampongs turned against us, peighboring hills, several miles distant. I and refused those of us who had es. had a number of relations living in the caped the least help or food. Many of town, but they seemed to fancy them- the Europeans - especially the women – selves safe enough at home, and they ac exhausted with fatigue, and almost frightcordingly remained behind. I never saw ened out of their lives, were sinking down any of them again alive. Five of them in a belple state by the wayside. Alperished, and, worst of all, only two of though the worst was over as regards the their bodies were recovered. These were volcanic wave, many sapk down and died found buried beneath the ruined house in on the road from exhaustion and neglect. which they met their end, and were Not only did many of the natives refuse scarcely recognizable. The others must to help us in the least, but they actually have been carried out to sea, and probably drove us fiercely from their houses. The formed part of the many hundreds seen reason of this was that, like all the Molater on Hoating in the Straits of Soenda hammedans, the Javanese are exceedingly by the captains of passing vessels. I had superstitious, and attributed their misfor. not proceeded a great distance from An. tunes to us. They said that we Europeans jer when the first volcanic wave broke were the cause of all their troubles. We upon the coast. Of course, even that one had offended Allah, and the outburst of was terrible enough, but it was nothing to Krakatoa, with all its attendant horrors, be compared with the second one, which was the result of his vengeance. When followed a little later. I could see that I asked wbat we had done to offend their the town had been seriously injured by the deity, they said it was owing to the war inundation, and no doubt some lives were which the Dutch government is now carlost even in that first overflow. Alarmed rying on against the Acheenese. We by what I had already noticed, I quick were fighting against their brethren un. ened my pace inland. The farther from justly on the neighboring shores of Sumathe coast, I thought, the safer I should be, ira, and Krakatoa was simply the medium and so it proved. The site of Anjer is, of Allah's retribution. They refused to for the most part, very level ground; but give us anything, aod threatened to kill four or five miles away are some hills, us if we did not move away at once. densely covered with cocoanut palm-trees. "Fanaticism had gained so much the These formed a pretty background to the upper hand among these people that they town. I decided to inake to this rising were on the point of marching armed to ground as fast as I possibly could. As Anjer and plundering it. One poor lady I proceeded I found some of my neigh. who begged for a drink of water merely bors from Anjer making for the same was sternly refused. She was nearly spot. Some of them were fortunate dead with fright and exhaustion, but even enough to reach this place of safety before that made no impression on this ignorant the final destruction came. Others whom and superstitious race. At last, in sheer I passed on the way, were overtaken by desperation, she offered two gold rings the second wave, or rushing torrent, and she was wearing for the water. The at once found a watery grave.

greedy natives could not stand out against “ Breathless with running, I came as fast such a tempting offer, and, braving Allah's as possible up the densely wooded slopes, wrath, they complied with her request on and was only just in time. The great condition that she proceeded on her way wave, sweeping all before it, was close on immediately. One of the doctors at Anjer my beels as the rising ground brought who managed to escape with his wife and me safely out of its reach. Its fury was child was treated in much the same way. much spent as it broke upon the hills, but He and his family were driven off and it was very powerful even then. But the chased away by the natives, and both rice higher ground soon checked its force, and and water were refused them. They were sent it back again towards the sea. Of on the point of giving up all in despair, the actual destruction I saw but little. I when one nativ more compassionate

too much frightened to stop and than the rest, at length deigned to point watch the ruin it caused. My one idea out to us Christian dogs (as they called was to get as high up as I was able, and us) a forsaken village, where we obtained of course I thought of nothing else at the some rice and dried fish, and on this we time.

subsisted until we fell at length into more “There were some terrible scenes after. friendly hands." wards on the roads leading into the inte- With such a companion as this at my

was

side our three miles' drive in the kachar | The'road had completely disappeared, and seemed quickly over. Acd now at a turn there was no track or footpath in its place, in the road the scene of destruction sud. Fallen trees lay everywhere, and every denly came in view. Descending a little few yards they had to be scrambled over. hill, we came into level country, and saw By many a détour we tried to avoid the at a glance the terrible havoc which the masses of fallen débris, and frequently inundation had caused. First came the these too had to be scaled, or else all destroyed roadway. The well-made road further progress would have been stopped. from Batavia to Merak on which we Mile after mile we slowly picked our had thus far travelled — now came to an way amid these melancholy surroundabrupt ending. Its metalled track had ings. Here and there we found ourselves suddenly disappeared, partly washed away hemmed in by pools of water, left in the at first, and a little farther on completely hollows after the wave had receded. swept away. A ruined bridge was all that whenever possible we waded through remained to show where once the road these, or if too deep for fording a long had been. Our ka-har could now proceed circuit had to be made. no farther, and the rest of our exploration But one of the most remarkable facts had to be performed on foot. We were concerning the inundation remains to be stilt several miles from the coast, but all told. As we walked or scrambled along the land between us was perfectly bare of we were much surprised to find great timber. A few weeks before, the whole masses of white coral rock lying at the of the country we were gazing on was one side of our path in every direction. Some dense forest of cocoanut palms, and be of these were of immense size, and had neath the shelter of tropical vegetation been cast up more than two or three miles scores of native kampongs nestled, inhab. from the seashore. It was evident, as ited by many thousands of busy people. they were of coral formation, that these And now this immeose district — fifteen immense blocks of solid rock had been miles long and four or five in width – torn up from their ocean bed in the midst was so completely ruined as to be nothing of the Soenda Straits, borne inland by the more or less than a huge cemetery. What gigantic wave, and finally left on the land a change had come over that thriving dis- several miles from the shore. Any one trict on the western shore of Java in so who had not seen the sight would scarcely short a period! The palm-trees were all credit the story. The feat seems an al. thrown down — without a single exception most impossible one. How these great torn up by the roots, lying in endless con- masses could have been carried so far fusion one above another. The native into the interior is a mystery, and bears houses - made of their frail materials of out what I have said in previous papers as bamboo and leaves were now on the to the height of this terrible wave. Many ground, just as the receding waters bad of these rocks were from twenty to thirty left them. Beneath the fallen débris lay all tons in weight, and some of the largest kinds of sinashed furniture, broken uten. must have been nearly double. Lloyd's sils, doors wrenched from their binges, agent, who was with me, agreed in thinkand every article of native costume in one ing that we could not be mistaken if we great indescribable mass.

put down the largest block of coral rock A more awful sight could scarcely be that we passed, as weighing not less than imagined. One great matter for thankful. fifty tons. ness, as the fierce rays of a tropical sun It seems very hard to imagine what a beat down upon us, was that nearly all the great volume of water would be required bodies had been recovered and buried. to carry such heavy masses so far into It was well for us that our visit had not the adjacent country. The force with been made earlier, or else the sight would which they had met obstructions was very have been a still more terrible one. Now noticeable in several instances.

In one and again we detected decomposing mat- case a bridge had been ruined by being ter Dear us, and the Malays who were thus struck. The keystone of the arch accompanying us said that probably many carrying the road over a little stream had a body still lay concealed beneath the been struck by a piece of rock some immense fallen masses which lay on each twenty tons in weight, and this mass had side of us, and which they had not yet had split the brickwork right through the cen. time to examine. Closely following our tre just like a wedge, and lay finally guides, we made our way very slowly jammed in half across the road. It is not through the ruined district. A rougher at all probable that some of the larger of piece of walking I never experienced. I these coral blocks will ever be moved

LIVING AGE. VOL. LI, 2652

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