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French, but find it hard to condemn many of their measures; while, on the contrary, the English are very generally beloved, and their measures execrated. The former government of Portugal, of which the present regency is the representative, was a very bad one. Its oppressions and its ignorance were alike notorious. Yet we have linked ourselves to this government, and not to the people. We make no appeals, as it were, directly from nation to nation. All that we say comes to the people through the medium of magistrates, not beloved nor respected, further than that they hold an arbitrary power in their
where I found the muleteers and their cattle already collected. My portmanteau was placed on one side of the back of a mule, and balanced on the other with a large bundle of bacalao, or salt fish. I rode upon an ass without a bridle, with my pistols, my cloak, and my leathern wine-bottle, fastened to the pummel of my saddle. A woman, who was also going to Cordoba, sat in a kind of chair on the back of another ass; and about three o'clock, the principal carrier having given the signal, the whole procession, consisting of five or six men, and nearly forty mules and asses, moved on along the road of Carmona.'
"I beheld at Lisbon a government, hated, yet implicitly obeyed; and this was to me a kind of clue to the national character, where the hereditary rights of tyrannizing in the great, and long habits of servitude in the multitude, compose the principal traits. But the people are awakened; they are appealed to; they are armed! and habits of freedom will, by degrees, arise among them.-Never. This nation, with all its old rites, its superstitions, and its prejudices of three centu ries, is in its decrepitude. To produce any good the whole race must be renewed. Their present enthusiasm, produced by the pressure and the concurrence of wonderful circumstances, proves to me nothing."
From Lisbon, the author set out to travel post to Seville, by the way of Badajoz and the Sierra Morena; and, notwithstanding the forebodings of his friends, who endeavoured to dissuade him from the undertaking, he accomplished the journey, and reached Seville in safety. He passed a week in this ancient city, and devotes a chapter to a description of the remarkable objects contained in it. He then prosecuted his journey to Cordova and Granada, not, as hitherto on horseback, but in a muleteer's train; which mode of travelling was slow, but afforded him an undisguised view of the manners of the Spaniards in humble life. We extract a few of the passages in which he seems to have been most successful in conveying an impression of their customs and disposi
"On the afternoon of the 16th of February, I repaired to the gate of Carmona,
"At this season, nothing could surpass the beautiful appearance of the plain of Sevilla, covered with fields of rising corn and olive plantations. Here and there some of the later kinds of trees stood, yet bare of leaves, and presented striking contrasts to the universal green which surrounded them. As we proceeded, the fields became less cultivated, and the hedges were, in general, of aloes mixed with pines. It was dark before we reached Ervizo, a stage of four leagues from Sevilla, and a place of about five hundred houses. The mules were all unloaded, and their burthens piled up together at one end of a hall, paved with rough stones, which occupied the whole length of the house. At the other end was the fireplace, where the mistress of the house, expecting our arrival, was already busy in preparing our supper of salt fish, eggs, and oil. After supper, each of the muleteers spread out the furniture and saddles of his mules for a bed; whilst, for me, a few bundles of straw were laid side by side over the stones, on which, wrapped up in my cloak, I slept soundly till the morning.
"It was 8 o'clock on the 17th, before our caravan was completely in motion. The first part of our road was through a country of continued hills and dales, cultivated in patches of beautiful green, amid vast tracts of wild and barren land. As we approach Carmona, a stage of two long leagues, the soil is in general of a sandier nature, but more extensively cultivated. This part of the country appeared to be remarkably destitute of water; I did not observe a single brook all this morning. Near the road side was a peasant girl selling water; and a Spanish soldier being follow his example. Having drank a goblet drinking at the same time, I went up to full, I was proceeding to pay for it, but the girl informed me that the senior who had just walked on, had paid for me,
This is a custom very common among all parties being wearied out, rather than ranks in Spain, towards those whom they assuaged, we broke up in silence, if not perceive to be strangers. It is meant to in friendship. These Andalusians are give an exalted idea of the generosity and certainly a strange, good natured, irascimagnificence of the Spanish character; and ble, fickle, lively kind of a race. On the the traveller will sometimes be surprised ensuing morning I expected to see some to find his dinner paid for at a publick traces of a quarrel so violent and so retable by some unknown, who has left the cent; but far from it, the parties were now house, whom he most probably will never the best friends in the world, and, alsee again, and whose very name is con- though it was Sunday, were very busily cealed from him. In the present instance, engaged at a game of cards.”— however, I did not long remain indebted
“Ôur protracted stay at Posadas enato my bare-legged benefactor; he being bled me to witness one of those scenes on foot, I speedily overtook him; and, which mark, as it were, the very outalthough he positively refused to accept skirts of war, and affect us more than of money, he allowed me to discharge the those of greater horrour. A poor woman obligation, by a long draught out of my of the place had been informed that her leathern bottle, which came away very only son was killed in battle, and she, of lank from his embrace.”“I was surrounded, at the village of this very morning a peasant arrived with
course, had given herself up toʻgrief; but Posadas, by people of all classes, who, certain intelligence, not only that her son under various pretences, asked me
was living, but that he was actually aphundred questions, and examined minute proaching the village, and not above a ly my cloak, my dress, and my English league distant from it. The first shock of saddle. On my account a better supper these good tidings overpowered the mowas prepared than I had met with since
ther's feelings; she ran out into the street, leaving Sevilla. Five or six rabbits were uttering screams of joy, and telling every broiled upon the embers, then pulled to
one she met that he was mot dead, that he pieces, put into a large wooden bowl, and
was living, that he was approaching, that over all was poured hot water, mixed he would soon be in his dear mother's with oil, vinegar, garlick, pimento, and house. After some time, she exclaimed: salt. As usual we all sat down together, a
• But why do I stop here? come away, large leathern bottle, holding about three
come away, and meet him,' and so sayquarts, was filled with tolerable wine, and ing, attired as she was, she hurried into being intrusted to one of the company to
the road, and soon disappeared. But what act as our Ganymede, the repast began.
can describe her return? Her son lived, For some time, hunger prevented all but, alas ! how changed since last she conversation, but our cupbearer performed
saw him! His arm had been carried away his office with such dexterity, that before by a cannon ball, the bandages of his supper was finished, our bottle was
wound were died with blood, he was pale emptied, and the Andalusian peasant be. and emaciated, and so weak that he was gan to show himself in all his vivacity: with difficulty supported on his ass, in a it was voted unanimously that the bottle kind of cradle, by the help of a peasant should be replenished. They talked loud, who walked by his side. On the other they laughed, they sang, they cursed the side walked his mother-now looking French, and swore that even should all down on the ground-now up to heaven-the rest of Spain be overrun, Andalusia but chiefly on her son, with anxious eyes, was sufficient to protect itself from every and a countenance in which joy and grief, invader. On a sudden a fierce quarrel exultation and despondency, reigned by arose; high words passed, knives were
turns.” drawn, and I expected to see our supper end in bloodshed; when the hostess, after
On arriving at Granada, Mr. Semvarious vain attempts to allay the storm, began to repeat the evening service to the ple is so forcibly struck with the virgin. Immediately all was calm, the beauty of the prospect, as to cease knives were sheathed, all hats were off, to wonder, that the Moors on the and at each pause the whole assembly Barbary coast should continue to murmured forth the response, and de- pray for the reestablishment of their voutly made the sign of the cross. As often as the quarrel seemed likely to be empire in this seat of magnificence renewed, the good woman had recourse
and luxuriance. The ruins of the to the same expedient, and always with Alhambra cagaged, in course, his the same success, until the anger of the particular aitention; and he admired its beauties in detail: but when he fully sensible by the sudden change of viewed it as a whole, he experienced the atmosphere. Bathed as I was in perthe same disappointment in this as spiration, an extremely cold wind all at
once blew upon me, and caused an instant in other Moorish monuments. Being chill over my whole frame, the effects of so near the Sierra Nevada, Mr. Sem- which I felt long afterwards. But the sight ple determined to ascend towards of the highest peak, to which I was now.so its summit as far as its condition at near, inspired me with fresh courage, and that season (the beginning of March] after great exertions I arrived to within
two hundred yards at farthest of perpen. would permit his approach; but the
dicular height from the summit. Here all enterprise was attended with consi- farther progress became impossible. I had derable hazard, at least on the se- now got to the end of the ridge on which cond day, when his progress is thus I had proceeded so long, and nearly to described:
its junction with the highest part of the
peak, which rose before me exceedingly ** We rose by dawn of day. The morn. steep, and entirely covered with frozen ing was charming, but my companions snow. I endeavoured to make holes with were shivering with cold, although not my stick, and to ascend in a slanting diexceeding that often experienced in En. rection; but having proceeded twenty or gland, on a fine morning in autumn. As thirty paces, and stopping to take breath, soon as the shadow of the peak became on casting my eyes downwards, I was not visible on the snow to the westward we a little alarmed to find, that from the set out. The deep chasm or valley on our moment of leaving the summit of the right led directly to the bottom of the ridge, I had incurred the danger of slippeak, but other chasms from the heights ping down into a tremendous valley on on our left opening into this principal one, one side of it. I almost turned giddy with intersected our path at every interval of the sight. The pieces of frozen snow five or six hundred yards; and occasioned which I had broken off slid down with us infinite trouble in passing them. By astonishing rapidity, and clearly showed degrees the sides and bottoms of these me what my fate must be should I make chasms became covered with snow, frag- a single false step. Having stopped a few ments of broken ice, and rocks smooth with minutes to recover myself, and become the dew frozen on their surface, to which familiarized with the sight of the deep the sun had not yet reached. At length we valley of ice, I retraced my footsteps, and arrived where all traces of vegetation never felt more thankful than when I re.. were lost and buried beneath the snow, gained the summit of the ridge. I was which extended in every direction to the not before aware, that in so short a dis. summit of the peak. Here my guide, fa.
tance I could have incurred so great a tigued and alarmed, would proceed no danger. From this point I was fain to further, but pointed out some broken content myself with the views of the surrocks on the left, called the Heights of rounding mountains, which appeared eve. Saint Francisco, at the foot of which he ry where tossed in great confusion, al. promised to watch my progress and await though all apparently connected with, or my return. I ascended now alone, more branching from the high mountain on cautiously and slowly, along the summit which I stood. It did not appear possible of a ridge which appeared to terminate even if provided with proper instruments, at the bottom of the very highest part of to group them under any form, so strangethe peak. Sometimes the surface of the ly did they intersect each other. Towards snow was softened, and I sunk up to the the east, the view was intercepted by the midleg, not without occasional apprehen- peak and its slope in that direction, but sions, until I found myself uniformly stop- on every other side it was a stormy sea, ped by a frozen bank beneath. At other of mountains. I was able clearly to dis
times my progress was along so slippery tinguish the mountains which separate a surface, that I proceeded with the ut- the province of Granada from that of An. most difficulty, being frequently obliged dalusia, those towards the northern parts to break small holes with my stick, and of Murcia, the Sierra of Malaga, and the crawl upon my hands and knees. In this mountains towards Gibraltar. On some of manner, however, I surmounted all the these ridges immense white clouds rested neigbouring peaks, and ridges of moun. as it immovable; on others dark storms tains, an elevation of which I was made appeared to be brooding, whilst some
were in a blazé of sunshine from their mised to write to Fez for
passports; bare and stony summits to where they but a tedious delay of three weeks mingled with the plains.”
intervened, and the permission, when
received, extended no farther than On leaving Granada, Mr. Semiple Tangiers, Sallee, and a few other resolved to change again his mode towns along the coast. of travelling. He had sustained a robbery when in the company of the Wearied with the evasions of the muleteers, and he now took care to Moors, the travellers determined to set out together with a party who confine their journey within narrow were able to protect themselves. limits. They were highly gratified
. They proceeded to Malaga, and in with the fertile and romantick countheir route discovered the vestiges try around Tetuan; and they were of the Moors in several of the pub- surprised to meet with numbers of lick buildings, but more frequently camels, an animal which they did in the features of the inhabitants. not expect to see so near the conThe continued practice of irrigation fines of Europe. In riding across the afforded also a pleasing example of country from Tetuan to Tangiers, the preservation of Moorish im- they had an opportunity of obseryprovements. From Malaga, Mr.Sem- ing the simple manners of the ple travelled to Gibraltar, whence he Moors in their huts and tents; in determined to cross over to the Bar, which the women were employed bary shore, and attempt a journey to in spinning a coarse kind of thread, Fez. In this expedition he was ac- or in grinding corn between two companied by three of his country- flat stones, while the children were men, sir William Ingilby, Dr. Dar- making butter by swinging backwin (the son of Dr. Erasmus Dar- wards and forwards a skinful of milk win) and Mr. Theodore Galton. suspended from the top of the tent. Since nothing can be done among From Tangiers, the party crossed the Moors without presents, the tra- over to Tarifa in Spain. Short as vellers took with 'them patterns of this African journey was, Mr. Semcloth of various colours, each suffi- ple recommends a similar excursion cient for a Moorish garment; to to every person who travels in Spain. which they added a tent, a table, and A visit to Tetuan and Tangiers may a stock of utensils for cookery; and, be performed in four or five days, as they were wholly unacquainted and even this transient glance will with the language, they provided suffice to bring under the traveller's themselves with an interpreter. They observation many points of reseme, crossed over to Ceuta, and proceed. blance in the customs of the Spaed without interruption as far as Te. niards and the Moors. The armour, tuan; but, on applying for passports the dress, and the riding accoutreto Fez, they found it impossible to ments of both are the same ; their remove the suspicions which were houses are formed on the same moconceived by the Moors, in regard del; and the Spanish cookery is evito the object of their journey to the dently of Moorish origin. In both interiour. In vain they urged the countries, the implements of agripleasure which they would enjoy culture are the same, and the profrom the sight of a country and of gress of the art equally slow. manners so different from their own,
On returning to Gibraltar, Mr. since the governour and his coun- Semple found the town thronged sellors insisted that men could never with Spaniards, and French refube so foolish as to take so much gees. The cannon, mortars, and bultrouble for the gratification of mere lets of the Spanish lines had been euriosity. The Moors, however, pro- removed into the fortress, and placed
at the disposal of the governour. a quotation from this part of the From the old rock, our traveller re- book. The plates representing the turned to England by way of Cadiz; dress of the Spaniards in various and he concludes his work with ob- ranks of life, appear to be faithful servations on the political state of and lively delineations. And on the Spain, written with considerable ani- whole, this little volume, though mation and energy. He is of opinion transgressing in the points to which that, with so large a disposable force we have already adverted, will be as we possessed, much more might found equal in interest to the labours have been done to aid the Spaniards of several travellers of the present in their struggle. We regret that day, who came before the publick our limits do not permit us to make with loftier pretensions.
FROM THE MONTHLY REVIEW.
Hamlet Travestie; in three Acts, with Annotations by Dr. Johnson, and George Stow
vens, Esq. and other Commentators. 12mo. 38. boards. 1810.
AVAUNT, ye crying philoso- a perusal of it as no bad expedient phers, your sobbing and blubbering for dissipating the effects of Novemwill not do now. “ Take it for all in ber and December fogs; for he who all," it is a poor sort of a pastime; laughs heartily will never be dispoand a good, hearty laugh, which sed to tuck himself up to his bed helps to shake the dust and cob- post, or to throw himself into the webs of melancholy off the heart, is river. That our readers may have a worth a belly-full of it. If we did not taste of this oddly cooked and fanat first altogether relish the idea of tastically garnished Hamlet, we prehaving one of the esteemed trage- sent them with the substitute for dies of our divine bard metamorpho- the sublime soliloquy in the first act, sed by low burlesque, we could not beginning, “O that this too, too solid help shaking our old sides when we flesh," &c. which is thus untragefound the thing so well done. Now, dized: gentle reader, think not that our
SONG-HAMLET. senses are gone to the valley of the moon on our making this confession.
[TuneDerry-down.] Had Shakspeare himself, who was
" A ducat I'd give if a sure way I knew, a merry grig of the first water, been
How to thaw and resolve my stout flesh alive, he would have delighted in into dew! this very
comick travestie of his How happy were I, if no sin were self Hamlet, and have relished the hu- slaughter! morous blackguardism by which af. For I'd then throw myself and my cares
in the water. fecting scenes are converted into broad farce. The modern slang is
Derry down, down, down derry down. played off to good effect, both in the " How weary, how profitless, stale, and dialogue and in the songs, which
how flat, are substituted for the soliloquies; Seem to me all life's uses, its joys and
all that: and throughout the burlesque is well This world is a garden unweeded; and preserved. We feel ourselves obliged
clearly to the author for relieving the or- Not worth living for, things rank hold it, dinary dullness of our occupation, merely,
Derry down, &c. by so sprightly a sally: we have relished his fun; and we recommend
“ Two months have scarce pass'd since
dad's death, and my mother,