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stronger light breaks in at the of the most beautiful that could close of the dark perspective, and be imagined for the front of a great opens to view, half seen at first temple, the richness and exquisite through the tall narrow opening, finish of whose decorations offer a columns, statues, and cornices, of most remarkable contrast to the a light and finished taste, as if savage scenery which surrounds it. fresh from the chisel, without the “ It is of a very lofty proportints or weather stains of age, tion, the elevation comprising two and executed in a stone of a stories. The taste is not exactly pale rose colour, which to be commended, but many of warmed at the moment we came the details and ornaments, and in sight of them with the full light the size and proportion of the of the morning sun. The dark great door-way especially, to green of the shrubs that grow in which there are five steps of asthis perpetual shade, and the som- cent from the portico, are very bre appearance of the passage noble. No part is built, the whole from whence we were about to is- being purely a work of excavasue, formed a fine contrast with the tion, and its minutest embellishglowing colour of the edifice. ments, wherever the hand of man We know not with what to com- has not purposely effaced and obpare this scene ; perhaps there is literated them, are so perfect, that nothing in the world that resem- it may be doubted whether any bles it. Only a portion of a very work of the ancients, excepting, extensive architectural elevation is perhaps, some on the banks of the seen at first, but it has been so Nile, have come down to our contrived that a statue with ex- time so little injured by the lapse panded wings perhaps of Victory, of ages. There is, in fact, scarcejust fills the centre of the aperture ly a building of forty years standin front, which being closed belowing in England, so well preserved by the sides of the rock folding in the greater part of its architecover each other, gives to the fi- tural decorations." gure the appearance of being suspended in the air at a considerable height; the ruggedness of 18. Remarks on the Country erthe cliffs below setting off the

tending from Cape Palmas to the sculpture to the highest advantage.

River Congo, including ObservaThe rest of the design opened

tions on the Manners and Customs gradually at every pace as we ad

of the Inhabitants, &c. &c. By vanced, till the narrow defile which .

Captain John Adams. London, had continued thus far, without

1823 any increase of breadth, spreads The government of the Fantees on both sides into an open area of (on whose territory Cape Coast is a moderate size, whose sides are situated) is republican. by nature inaccessible, and present ber of old men called Pinins, at the same awful and romantic fea, the head of whom is Ammoonitures as the avenues which lead cummy, are arbiters in common to it: this opening gives admis- disputes which occur between the sion to a great body of light from natives of Annamaboo, or between the eastward. The position is one them and Europeans; but dis1823.

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putes

- A num

putes of a more serious nature, as counsellors are by their wigs such as may affect the liberties or in Courts of Assize. These hats properties of men of wealth and are made of straw, have broad consequence, are generally refer- brims, perfectly circular, and shalred to the lawyers of the Brafoo low crowns, with tufts of dried country, who, like their brethren grass in the centre, and which of the long robe in civilized Eu- are probably used to cover perirope, generally contrive to strip craniums as naturally acute and both plaintiff and defendant of sagacious as those immense, portheir property. -

dered, hairy, three-bobbed" wigs " The Pinins of Annamaboo are, that seem to give importance are well pleased when they and apparent wisdom to the logi. can involve in a palaveran cal nobs of English barristers. European; for they expect a “The Pinins, with much grarich barvest, and prompt pay- vity in their countenances, took ment. This experiment they tried their seats in the cabin, and, being upon us, though, fortunately, supplied with half a pint each of without effect. Being anxious neat brandy, swallowed it, glass af. not to be entirely dependent on the ter glass, in quick time, and gave natives for a supply of fish, some increased zest to this their favourite nets were purchased for the use beverage, by making their mouths of the vessel, and which were set receptacles for it, instead of their every evening, and examined eve- stomachs, where the brandy rery morning, to receive their pro- mained until more was ready to duce. Taking or disturbing the replace it, when it was allowed to net of a fisher, is considered a pass into its natural depository. heinous offence by the Fantees, Having performed all due homage and, when detected, is punished to their favourite god Bacchus, by a heavy fine being imposed on Obeky, the senior of the eight, the offending individual. "A num- opened the case, and addressed ber of nets had been stolen, and me as follows :-You be old man as ours were purchased at Cape for dis country; you all same Coast unknown to the natives of Ammoonicummy son; you all Annamaboo, we were supposed to same Fantee man; you do bad be the guilty persons. Accord- nobody; you owe one leaf tabac, ingly, a few days after we had you pay; all poor canoe men like commenced using them, we were sell you fowl, duck, yam, fish too. surprised by a visit from the Pi- You no want fish now; you nins, or elders, who came on board .catch 'em all same black man ; in full costume, to demand repa- you bab black man net too. ration for their injured country- Agar man, name Quacoo, lose man. Independently of the ad- net; some man teef him; we no vanced age of these gentlemen, say you teef him; you hab for they have in their dress some dis- ship, Brinny omo (white man bad.) tinguishing marks, and, like Qua- no know we custom. Suppose be kers, always wear their hats wher- be teef for Aberrikirry (England) ever they may be, and which have he no be teef for dis water : supforms peculiar to their calling, by pose black man teef, he catch pawhich they are as readily known laver; Brinny teef catch palaver in the villages where they reside, too.'

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" In this strain of Fantee elo. the obsequies for the deceased quence, Obeky continued his ha- commenced, vollies of muskets, rangue during a period of fifteen the noise of drums, and savage or twenty minutes. His com- shouts, were heard in every dirades, otherwise silent, when any rection ; and about eight o'clock, thing in his speech pleased them, a large concourse of persons, of called out Ampa, ampa !'or true, both sexes and all ages, had col. true! a practice they adopt when lected at and near Tacky Mensa's speechifying in large assemblies house, to whom brandy was dison shore, and which may be con- tributed in large quantities. Fir• sidered something similar to the ing, shouting, and drinking, conhear, hear!' in the Commons tinued till mid-day, when the five House of Parliament. When he victims were brought out from a had concluded his speech, I called hut with their hands bound, and two black boys, the sons of gold. with ligatures made of the bine of takers, into the cabin, who in- a creeping plant surrounding their formed the Pinins that they had heads, and which came over their seen the nets purchased by me eyes and noses, and by introducing from Quashy Too, at Cape Coast: pieces of sticks, and twisting them on receiving this information, they round, making what sailors call were evidently disappointed, and, Spanish windlasses, the bones of instead of receiving three or four their noses were forced in, and ounces of gold, besides the value their eyes sunk deeper in their of the nets, which they had calcu- sockets. One of these unfortulated on, were happy to obtain, in nate beings was a very old Asshanthe of compliment, two gal- tee man; the remaining four were lons of brandy, a few pipes, and natives of Chamba, and all men, leaves of tobacco, when they re- two of whom were middle-aged, tired in tolerable good humour, one very old, the other young. first making a suitable apology for Before they were led to execution, their unjust suspicion and intru- every effort was made by the Eusion."

ropeans to purchase them, but Captain Adams next describes without effect. The poor creaone of their horrid funeral cere- tures, in this state of suffering, monies, called a " Custom." were paraded through the town,

“ The period had arrived, when and received every ignominy that Tacky Mensa, a wealthy trader savage cruelty could devise or inand inhabitant of Annamaboo, Alict, without a sigh escaping them, had to make custom for his an- and were ultimately taken to the cestors. Five unfortunate vic- beach, under the very walls of the tims were to be immolated to the fort, where they were butchered manes of the deceased, and gun- amidst the most savage and diapowder, brandy, cloth, and provi- bolical shouts of the multitude. sions, distributed to the multitude. Even females assisted at the horA vast number of persons assem- rid ceremony, and marked thembled at Annamaboo, from different selves with the blood of the parts of the republic of Fantee, wretched victims, as it flowed from to assist at, and give importance their headless trunks; and, horri. to the ceremony. A little before ble to relate, libations of brandy day-break in the morning, when were poured into, and drank from

human

way

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buman skulls, which a few minutes by where the lifeless body still rebefore had life and being. Vollies mained on the stake a few days of musquetry were fired, savage afterwards." dances performed, and intoxication

The population of the town of was carried to excess during three Lagos may amount to 5000; but days and three nights, when the there are two or three populous custom-making ceased. Their villages on the north side of Cracustoms, or obsequies to the manes doo lake, over which the caboceer of deceased ancestors, are often of Lagos has jurisdiction. This carried to such excess by indivi- chief's power is absolute, and his duals, as to leave them in a state of disposition tyrannical to excess ; extreme poverty ; but all men of his name is Cootry. consequence are compelled, at “ When I first paid him a visit, some period of their lives, to per- (says Captain Adams,) he was form this savage act of duty to holding a levee, and dispensing those who have long been num- favours to his courtiers with his bered with the dead, or they would own royal hand, which consisted be degraded, and held in the low- of pieces of the putrid carcase of . est estimation by their country- a cow. Each individual crawled

men; but more especially by their to the foot of the throne, upon his own townsmen."

hands and knees (rubbing, occaAnd also at Lagos. " Thesionally, his forehead in the dust.) horrid custom of impaling alive a to receive the princely gift, and, young female, to propitiate the with well-bred politeness, and favour of the goddess presiding courtier - like servility, crawled over the rainy season, that she back again to his seat, his posteriors may fill the horn of plenty, is prac- first advancing, like those of a tised here annually. The immo- bear's, when it descends a tree. lation of this victim to supersti- The room, however, was so intotious usage takes place soon after lerably hot, and the stench from the vernal equinox ; and along the carrion so offensive, that ! with her are sacrificed sheep and was compelled to make a precipigoats, which, together with yams, tate retreat, or forfeit all claim to heads of maize, and plantains, are an acquaintance with royalty, by hung on stakes on each side of commitiing a breach of good manher. Females destined thus to ners, which a violent nausea at the be destroyed, are brought up for stomach warned me was fast apthe express purpose in the king's proaching; so that I had not an or caboceer's seraglio; and it is opportunity of witnessing at this said, that their minds have previ- time the effect of King Cootry's ously been so powerfully wrought royal munificence to his courtiers, upon by the fetiche men, that they although I felt the full force of it proceed to the place of execution upon myself. with as much cheerfulness as those “ The entrance leading to the infatuated Hindoo women who audience chamber presented a are burnt with their husbands. very curious spectacle. It was One was impaled while I was at

an oblong room of considerable Lagos, but of course I did not length, having an opening along witness the ceremony. I passed the centre of the roof to admit

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light and air. At one extremity, robbed of several bags of corn
there was arranged the King's by one of the King's domestics;
fetiche, which consisted of three and he sent a message to the
elephant's teeth placed in a re- black monarch, that if he caught
clining posture against the wall, the thief in the act, he would
with the convex part outwards, shoot him, whoever he might be.
and sprinkled with blood. On The opportunity soon occurred,
each side of the apartment, there and the man was shot when in the
were tumbled together, promiscu- act of taking away upon his head
ously, articles of trade, and cost- a bag of corn. When the King
ly presents, in a state of dilapida- was informed of the circumstance,
tion ; namely, rolls of tobacco, his only remark was, that the
boxes of pipes, cases of gin, an- fellow was a fool, and not a pro-
kers of brandy, pieces of cloth per man for a thief.
of Indian and European manu- “On interrogating Occondo,
facture, iron bars, earthenware; the King's favourite and linguist,
a beautiful hand-organ, the bel- respecting the elephant's teeth,
lows of which were burst; two and why they were Cootry's fe-
elegant chairs of state, having tiche, bis answer was, that the ele-
rich crimson damask covers, all phant being more sagacious and
in tatters ;

a handsome sedan stronger than any other animal,
chair, without a bottom; and two he represented best (metaphori-
expensive sofas, without legs. cally, of course) Cootry's powci
These, I presume, were placed over his subjects. If the black
thus conspicuously, with a view monarch had been acquainted
to impress the minds of those with heraldry, it would be a rea-
persons who were permitted to sonable inference to draw, that
approach the royal presence, with his fetiche was in reality his coat
ideas of the wealth and grandeur of arms; and certainly a black
of his sable Majesty ; and politi- African king and an elephant
cally, might perhaps be consider- would be much more natural and
ed as something similar to the appropriate than St. George and
pageantry with which it is thought a dragon.
necessary to surround royalty in The policy of this African
civilized countries, and which have despot, in ordering the devil to
so captivating and imposing an pay his metropolis an occasional
effect on the unthinking and vul- visit, is by no means a weak stra-
gar.

tagem, especially when we hear Cootry, like many of his of learned divines and holy docroyal brethren in Africa, is a re- tors being called on in civilized ceiver of stolen goods; for he countries to subdue the dark does not hesitate to share what spirit, and drive him out of some his servants purloin : and that old bedridden hypochondriac or servant is his greatest favourite impostor. who can rob his European friends "Cootry's devil is no aerial with most address.

spirit, for he is a devil in reality; “It was no secret to the master an armed man licensed to commit of a vessel, that his storehouse murder. His avocation is to run was clandestinely entered, and through the different avenues of

the

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