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said that he never left this place without an addition to his stock of information. Later he wrote an essay on the Bohemian mountain range, which became the guide to explorers of it. He wrote to Herr Voigt on the 12th of July that

Amongst czars, Peter was a great man; | away before Goethe, for the fourth time, Goethe was far greater than Peter, be- visited Karlsbad. This was in 1806. He cause he was a great man amongst men. put up at the Three Moors, a lodgingIt is, indeed, no small honor to Karlsbad house to which he always returned; partly, that it was one of Goethe's favorite places it is alleged, out of a special liking for the of resort, that there he planned and wrote landlady, Frau Heillinggötter. He was some of his best works, and that there he then fifty-seven, and his visit was the reacquired that stock of health which light-sult of medical orders, his own opinion ened his labors and lengthened his life. being that the waters would not do him He was thirty-six years old when he vis- any good this time. However, he was so ited Karlsbad for the first time. This much and so speedily the better for his was in 1785. He was seventy-four when, visit that he regretted having postponed in 1823, he paid his last visit to it. A it so long. On this occasion, as on other painful affection of the kidneys, from occasions, he busied himself with studywhich he suffered early in life, was the ing botany, mineralogy, and geology. The reason why he sought for relief in the curious geological formation of the valley healing waters of Karlsbad, and, happily, in which Karlsbad lies and through which he found what he sought. Twelve times, the Tepel flows, interested him exceed. at longer or shorter intervals, did Goethe ingly, and he was assiduous in investigattake a course of the Karlsbad waters.ing the origin of the mineral waters. He wrote to Frau von Stein in 1785 that the waters which he drank and in which he bathed suited him very well, and that the necessity of being obliged to keep company with his fellows had a beneficial effect upon him; all things having tended, the ladies included, to render his stay the weather suits me very well, and I do not agreeable and interesting. The following desire to be better than I am now, if it would year he returned, and occupied himself only last. Müller, the stonecutter, is the same with preparing for the press a collected old man, and he has been induced by the new edition of his works. He told the Duke mineralogists to strive after some novelty; he of Saxe Weimar that the second year's has really collected some very pretty things, use of the waters had greatly improved and I shall bring away with me a set of them his health; he started off from Karlsbad for my cabinet. Up to the present time the on the 3rd of September, 1786, in good visitors' list shows that 542 persons have arhealth and spirits, on his long-contem-rived; as in former years they belong to all plated journey to Italy. He stole nations, conditions, and creeds, and they all as he says, very early in the morning, their health. This year the Neubrunn is the use the warm springs for the recovery of and without even saying good-bye to his most fashionable, because it specially suits the friends, lest they should seek to detain gentler sex. him longer. He did not return to Karlsbad for nine years. In a letter to Schiller, written in July, 1795, he says that he was welcomed as a famous author, but that some persons confounded him with another writer of the day. Thus a charming lady told him that she had read his last work with the greatest pleasure, and that "Ardinghello" had interested her in the highest degree the actual author of this romance being Heinse. In another letter he records that the waters were effecting a cure, and that he scrupulously observed the prescribed rules getting up at five, passing his days in idleness, mixing with the people, and enjoying much conversation, and some adventures. That he was not wholly idle is shown by his adding that he had written the fifth book of "Wilhelm Meister," and was about to finish the sixth. Eleven years passed

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A few days later he informed Frau von Stein: "I am in capital condition. My health has been re-established without the aid of physic, and solely by drinking and bathing in the waters." He adds that the number of visitors had increased to six hundred and fifty. Leaving Karlsbad and Bohemia early in August, Goethe marked that their peacefulness gave him the impression of being in the land of Goshen. The year 1806 was not a quiet one elsewhere. Returning in the following year, Goethe wrote a pamphlet on the mineralogy of Karlsbad, which was printed there. The waters continued to benefit him, only a change was made in the treatment; he gave up taking those of the hot Sprudel, and drank the cooler waters of other springs. He was very ill on arriv ing, and he became worse owing to a mis

take in using the waters; however, he was verses in her honor which his least critical restored to good health in six weeks' time. admirers praise the most highly. Not He wrote some of his minor works during being so much benefited in health as he this visit. His son, and the dukes of Co- hoped to be, he went to Teplitz, where his burg and Saxe Weimar were visitors at health improved. He blamed the continthe same time. The only things worthy uous bad weather at Karlsbad as the cause of note in his visit during 1808 is a pas- of his illness, and expressed his regret to sage in a letter to Knebel to the effect have to find fault with "a place which he that he had given up reading the news-loved so well." Nothing deserves menpapers, as they contained so much that tion about his stay during 1811 except that was false and misleading, and that his he informed the Duke of Saxe Weimar friends kept him perfectly well informed that "Picknicks" were very common. about the news of the day. He remarks, His wife was with him for part of the too, that the threatening aspect and un-time, and she did not please the ladies, certain state of affairs rendered strangers who were Goethe's ardent worshippers. chary of discussing political matters. One Frau von Schiller writes contemptuously of the Karlsbad industries, one, too, which | about "Goethe's corpulent better-half." is still prosecuted, though the competition In 1812, he returned on the 4th of May, of machinery renders it daily more un- and he was the third arrival of the season. profitable, is pin-making. The Karlsbad He had a sharp attack of his old malady, pins have always been in request, and this which confined him to the house for sevwill explain the following short passage in eral weeks; he went to Teplitz for a short a letter from Goethe to Frau von Stein: time, and then returned to Karlsbad, "I am very well. Along with this you which he did not leave till September, his will receive a pound of pins, costing two stay lasting four months. During that thalers twelve groschen (about 75.), owing period he made the acquaintance of to the dearness of brass. Brass is no Wilhelm von Humboldt, who wrote to him longer drawn into wire, being too much afterwards expressing the great pleasure in demand for cannon." Again, writing on he had in conversing with him, being espe the 16th of August, he says: cially struck with the views about Shakewhich he begged Goethe to set forth in speare expressed during their walks, writing. Five years elapsed before his revisiting Karlsbad; when he did so, in 1818, he made Prince Blücher's acquainttance there, and he heard Madame Catalani sing. So pleased was he with the songstress that he wrote a few lines to the effect that she had made him appreciate for the first time the advantage of men having ears. On the 28th of August, 1819, being his birthday, he paid his eleventh visit to Karlsbad, and he was present there when Prince Metternich, Count Bernstorff, and Count Kaunitz assembled together to unite together Austria, Prussia, Bavaria, Hanover, Baden, Hesse, and Nassau, a conspiracy against human freedom, which was the last combined attempt of the despots of Germany to keep their subjects in abject bondage. The twelfth and last time Goethe visited Karlsbad for the sake of the waters was in 1820. He was still active in researches of all kinds. Anticipating Mr. Ruskin, he busied himself during his journey in noting the cloud formations, keeping for a time a diary in which he entered the various atmospheric conditions and appearances in order to arrive at conclusions respecting the particular forms of the clouds. He attended

I am well, and have no reason to be dissatisfied with this summer. I have had the experience of all sorts of society, from the most complete solitude to the greatest noise and bustle, succeeded by solitude again. Thus the summer season at a watering-place bears a close resemblance to man's life. So it has been as regards the weather. The finest May days, rain, heat, and damp, misty evenings, anticipating those of autumn, and the most beautiful moonlight nights, succeeding each other; these we find everywhere, yet in the mountain range and valleys of this locality one is the more impressed with them, as they

affect us in a more characteristic fashion. At times the heat is like that of an oven, and the rain is like a deluge.

Goethe notes that the Duke of Gotha, who was then at Karlsbad, had the bad habit of always making one of his guests the butt of his wit and ridicule, but that the duke spared him. He expresses his surprise at the occasional flashes of clever observation and repartee which the duke displayed in company. Goethe also records that he worked as hard at this time as if he had still to make his way in the world. He spent three months and a half in Karlsbad during 1808. Revisiting it in 1810, he was there when the empress Maria Ludovica arrived, and he wrote

a wedding, the persons present represent- | with a memorial in stone. He erected a ing the middle class; he says that by con- covered resting-place for weary wayfarers versing with them "he gained a clearer in 1801, wherein he placed a French inknowledge of the actual state of Karlsbad scription, expressive of his gratitude for than he previously had, having till then having lived under "the mild and paternal been accustomed to regard the place as a laws of Austria." Those who know what large hospital and hotel." In 1823 he the laws of Austria were at that period paid Karlsbad a flying visit, the attraction must be aware that, whilst they favored being Fräulein Ulrike von Lewezow, a men of birth or fortune, they were scourges young and charming lady, who had smit- of scorpions for the body of the people. ten the great poet's very susceptible As many of the inscriptions are in some heart, and who, owing probably to his be- Slav tongue they escape both attention ing seventy-four, received and declined and criticism from the majority of visitthe offer of his hand. ors. I observed but one in English: it consisted of a few verses on the back of one of two stone seats which had been erected at the cost of Lady Henrietta Maria Stanley of Alderley; the dates being 1842, 1878. I quote the verses which give expression to a kindly sentiment: To the bright town that gave me health and Grateful I dedicate these seats, a nest Year after year in life's quick pilgrimage, Where youthful love may talk, and wayworn

The sixty years that have elapsed since Goethe last saw Karlsbad have been crowded with changes. He would not recognize some of his old habitations and beloved haunts. The houses in which he stayed or those which have been built upon their sites bear inscriptions of the fact of his residence. A place in the town is called after him: his marble bust, the first monument erected to his honor in Austria, is one of the artistic charms of

Karlsbad. More fortunate than Peter the Great, the countless strangers who know the German tongue can learn from the inscriptions on tablets which of the houses were consecrated by Goethe's presence. The very small number of visitors who read Russian can alone learn from tablets outside the houses that the Czar Peter once lived and labored in them.

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On the back of the other seat are a few beautiful lines from Goethe, which it is impossible to translate adequately, and which express in exquisite words how, for all toilers, there is repose at last. eral visitors have commemorated their stay here by causing walks through the woods to be cut at their own expense. Amongst them is the Russell Weg, for which the town is indebted to two neph ews of the late Earl Russell, who, in their youth, lived for some time in Karlsbad with their mother. One was Arthur, the other Odo Russell. As I write these lines the sad news comes from Berlin that the latter, recently known as Lord Ampthill, has suddenly passed away in the prime of his life and the fulness of his powers. His great and most efficient services require no eulogy. In common with all who had made his personal acquaintance, I feel his untimely death to be a calamity of no common kind. It might have been averted had he been able to leave Berlin for Karlsbad, where rooms had been engaged for him. Last year he came to Karlsbad in greatly impaired health, and he left it much better. Diplomatic busihess detaining him in Berlin, it may truly be said that he died at his post, a martyr to duty.

Visitors to Karlsbad have long been in the habit of leaving behind them some token of their stay there, and of gratitude for the benefit received. Instead of merely writing their names on wooden benches, carving them on trees, or cutting them in stones, they have had inscriptions painted on metal or wooden tablets, and have had these tablets fixed in conspicuous places. A granite obelisk erected lasty year bears inscriptions in Hungarian, French, and German, to the effect that it is a thank-offering to Karlsbad from grateful Hungarians. In 1859, Kiss, the great Prussian sculptor, carved an image in the solid rock as a testimony of good wishes and his skill. Many of the inscriptions are in the French tongue, and they are sometimes couched in a variety of French which would be unfamiliar in France. A Count Findlater, who is sometimes called Lord Findlater, but whose name I do not remember to have seen in the English peerage, was conspicuous and energetic at the end of last century in improving the walks about Karlsbad, and for this the burghers have honored him || The number of picturesque walks in

cious in any case remains an unsolved problem. The principal springs are five in number, and are alike in their chemical composition: but they differ in tempera ture. The Sprudel, which is the hottest, has a temperature of 165°; the Schlossbrunn, one of the coolest, has a temperature of 124° Fahrenheit. A new one, which has just been discovered, is said to resemble those of Marienbad. It is easy enough, indeed, to discover a spring by boring anywhere within a certain area. More than once, in the history of the town, there has been a disastrous outburst of scalding water, and earthquakes have occurred. No little care is required to keep the Sprudel on its good behavior. It is a useful and health-giving friend, but a most dangerous enemy. There are bath-houses, in which patients bathe in mineral water, and others in which Moor baths are taken. If a Moor bath be as curative as is alleged, then a fortune is to be easily made in certain parts of Ireland or Scotland. A Moor bath is simply a solution of peat in water; in other words, it is an artificial warm peat bog. The patient who takes one realizes practically the meaning of "wallowing in the mire." The sensation is less unpleasant than the appearance of the bath.

and about Karlsbad is one of its many consensus of opinion amongst competent attractions. No less than twenty exist; medical men; but why they prove effica they are all through scenery alike varied and charming, and the pathway in each case is excellently kept. A charm of these woods and walks is the number and tameness of the birds. This is due to the care taken of them, a society existing for providing food for the feathered songsters. In and near the town itself there are weighing machines at short intervals. A man who can make a living in no other way, provides a weighing machine for the use of the visitors who are concerned about their weight, and who form a large proportion of the patients. Some delicate invalids take the waters in order to regain health and flesh, and they seem delighted when they find that they have added sev eral pounds to their weight. Yet their joy does not appear equal to that openly manifested by those who find themselves growing thinner and lighter day after day. The visitors most open in showing pleasure at becoming lighter generally belong to what is commonly regarded as the fairer and gentler, but what here appears to be the fatter and heavier sex. Perhaps it is the fact of many stout persons resorting to Karlsbad for treatment that has led some English physicians to regard the waters as strong purgatives and nothing more. That they are strong is beyond question; but that they are solely fitted for removing superfluous fat is a mistake. I shall not discuss their medicinal properties: this lies within the physician's province, and, for this reason, it is highly imprudent to drink the waters without medical advice. But I may note, as interesting and indisputable, the fact that in one malady the formation of gall stones - they are regarded as a specific, and that they have proved of singular efficacy in certain obscure and puzzling diseases. Dr. Hufeland, whose "Art of Prolonging Life" used to be a favorite work, wrote in 1815 in strong praise of these waters generally, and especially as to their virtue in alleviating or curing diabetes. Dr. Seegen, a distinguished member of the medical faculty of the University of Vienna, and who for many years has been the most esteemed consulting physician during the season at Karlsbad, has confirmed Hufeland's views as to the value of the waters in arresting or removing that mal. ady. So well is this known that Karlsbad has been named a large hospital for diabetic patients. As to the proved efficacy of the waters in other diseases, there is a

A part of the "cure" at Karlsbad consists in drinking Giesshübler mineral water at or between meals. The water is pleasant and sparkling, and it is said to possess many virtues. An excursion to the place where it is found is made by most of the visitors to Karlsbad. The distance is seven miles and a half, and the road thither passes through romantic scenery. Situated in a valley on the left bank of the Eger, Giesshübl-Puchstein is a very pretty little watering-place. The chief spring is called King Otto's spring, in honor of the king of the Greeks who visited this place and drank the waters in 1852. About one hundred and ten feet above the river bank, this spring wells up through a cleft in the granite rock of which the slope is formed. From the tenth edition of a small work on the subject by Dr. Löschner, I learn that the Giesshübl water has long been known and valued, being in request as far back as the thirteenth century. It seems to have been always a regular adjunct to the treatment in Karls bad. Dr. Payer, who wrote in 1522, and Dr. Summer in 1571, about the waters of the latter place, both recommend the

use of Giesshübler water also. It is re-itor much more amusement and variety corded that when the archduchess Ferdi- prevailed. The visitors being then fewer nand took baths at Karlsbad in 1571 and in number, it was possible to get up enter1574, she drank Giesshübler water under tainments at which they could all be presmedical advice. There was a great de-ent. A very marked change occurred in mand for it up to 1805; agencies were opened for its sale in Prague and Vienna, and it was regularly supplied to the imperial court. But, between 1805 and 1829, the sale of the water fell off, and the very existence of the place whence it came seemed forgotten. This is attributed to the imperfect manner in which it was bottled. Since 1829 greater care is taken in bottling it, and now the number of bottles sent away yearly is upwards of four millions. Throughout Austria and some parts of Germany this water is as well known, and is as much drunk, as Apollinaris is in England. It has the advantage of being naturally charged with enough carbonic acid gas to be at once pleasant and easily digestible. When exported to England it is, like the Apollinaris, prepared for the English market; in other words, it is artificially surcharged with carbonic acid gas. Those persons in England who wish to enjoy Giesshübler water as they do who drink it in Austria, should insist upon being supplied with it in its natural state. When bottled and sold in that state, there are no wires over the corks; when artificially prepared the corks are wired, and the bottles resemble in shape those in which Apollinaris is sold.

1852. Till then every visitor's arrival was welcomed by a blast on a horn from the castle tower, and by a serenade outside the house in which he lodged. In England at one time, when a distinguished person landed at a seaport, the churchbells were rung in his honor. Afterwards the bell-ringers waited upon him, and they were not complimentary in their remarks if he failed to reward them handsomely. The blowing of horns and the playing of bands at Karlsbad were followed by applications for gratuities. Now, each visitor pays a sum to the town not exceeding fifteen florins, and for this he is allowed to listen to the town band, and drink, but not bathe in the mineral waters without further charge. He has plenty of other payments to make. In the season, Karlsbad is a very expensive as well as a serious place of abode. Whilst the coming guest is no longer welcomed with the blowing of horns, the parting one is now sped on his way with flowers. Large bouquets and baskets of flowers are placed in the carriage which conveys the homeward bound traveller to the railway station. Ladies are said to prize these manifestations of good feeling so highly that, if they cannot count upon gifts of flowers, they will pay for the flowers that are handed to them. A certain number of patients go to To present a small bouquet is a graceful Giesshübl-Puchstein for treatment. Taken attention; but when a carriage is so eninternally and externally the water is said cumbered with flowers that little room is by Dr. Löschner to be efficacious in bron- left for anything else, the compliment is chial irritation, catarrh of the bladder, converted into a farce. At the railway and gout. A whey cure and a cold-water station, or shortly after leaving it, the cure are also provided for the visitors to superabundant floral tributes cease to Giesshübl-Puchstein. Quite as good as charm, and they are thrown away. When either may be the open-air cure, as the air a pleasant custom is exaggerated till it is pure and bracing, and the walks and becomes ridiculous in all eyes save those scenery are so attractive as to tempt the of vain women and florists, it should be visitors to remain out of doors. Not yet discountenanced and discontinued. The being accessible by rail, the place is much parting guest cares less about presents of less frequented than those which are more flowers than about the benefits he has easily reached. On the other hand, it is gained from the waters. Many visitors much more enjoyable than if it were over- to Karlsbad renew their youth there, and run by scampering tourists. Amongst they return home highly pleased as well the watering-places of Bohemia, one of as glad to acknowledge that they have rethe most charming is Giesshübl-Puch-ceived ample compensation for weeks of stein.

Karisbad is no place for the mere seeker after pleasure. The waters are what the French and Germans term "serious," and life there during the season is serious also. In the days that Goethe was a vis

enforced abstemiousness and wearisome water-drinking or bathing. Others are less fortunate. They go away without experiencing any sensible improvement, and fearing that they have foolishly wasted their time and substance in a vain quest

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