and stop here and there to set down pas- | alkanet, marigolds, arnica, comfrey, with sengers for this little bathing resort or fragrant Artemisium absinthis, ihyme, that, boats coming out to fetch them. melilotus, and last, but not least, the ex. There is only one landing-place in the quisite grass of Parnassus. One especial island, and to this, Polchow, we are slope of chalk bank was starred with these bound. Most beautiful are the evening lovely little flowers, their creamy blossoms lights as we approach our destination, showing conspicuously amongst ox-eyed where the conveyances we have ordered daisies, meadow-sweet, and other white on embarking await us. These are rude flowers growing in its company. That enough; for the most part open wooden little bank of one of the sweetest flowers cariolos without springs, some without in the world I shall not easily forget, nor seats; and the jolting of an hour and a is it the only unique remembrance I bore half over rough roads to Sassnitz, the final away from Sassnitz. goal of the long journey from England, is There are wonderful inland walks also, not easily forgotten. But the good-humor for Sassnitz is on the very threshold of of the people, and everybody's desire to the dense Stubbenitz forest, so famous in please, make up for discomforts, whilst Scandinavian mythology. Leaving the the sense of freshness and remoteness village in the direction of the head forestlend charm even to hardships.

er's or Ober-Försterei (where fresh milk At Sassnitz, where we settle down, we and bread may be had), we climb mossy are as far removed from Cook's tourists, ways cut through the wood, now passing importunate cicerones, and the routine open, park-like spaces, now diense beechen and artificiality of modern travel as if we groves, here stately alders bordering a had reached the moon itself. And surely dark rivulet, till we reach a broad enclos. the moon were hardly more romantic and ure, with grass.grown walls, evidently an bewitching. There is nothing in the ancient circunvallation. From this high world I know of more fairy-like, dainty breezy ground, whence we get prospects and refreshing than these little glades, of the far-away forest, distance upon disdells, and glens bordering the pale grey tance from deepest green to pale dreamy northern sea. Under bowers of greenery blue, we dip into a deep combe, the sweet. and. by moss-grown ways we pass from est spot imaginable. To get down is not one delicious spot to another, now dipping easy, so abrupt and slippery the little into a tiny ravine where a streamlet purls path; but once down, how enchanting, over its pebbled bed, now climbing a gold-how rustic, how cool and quiet these green knoll under interlaced branches of regions ! beech or pine, the ripple of the waves ever It is afternoon, and high above, we have in our ears, the cool, still sea ever in sight. left the sun, which lies in golden streaks

Far away is the open Baltic, smooth on the upper swards, and gilds the riin of this July day as a lake, and behind us the the forest about us, not a glint reaches sunny broken forest, butterflies breaking our cool, dusk world of shadow and the golden paths of light here, as yonder greenery. We do not go any more into the broad

expanse of blue sky and sea is that warm upper zone, but ever dipping broken by the silvery wing of the birds. downwards, soon reach the babbling We may continue our walk in these silent stream, and following its course we are forest paths, winding higher and higher led homeward by the daintiest woodland upward from the shore for several miles, way. Indescribable indeed are the beautill we reach the acme of Rügen scenery, ties and graces of these ancient beechStubbenkammer itself, where the stu-trees, many of the moss-covered trunks pendous chalk cliffs, crowned with beech showing little tufts of flowers, the woodforests that tower above the sea, have a sorrel, the ragged robin and other woodsublimity and beauty alone worth coming land plants having taken up their abode from England to see. Or we may wind in clefts and openings. Nothing more down by tiny paths to the pebbly shore beautiful can be imagined than these lying close under our feet. These chalk hoary stems thus tasselled with little banks running sheer into the water, are flowers and leaves. On the mossy banks ricli with foliage and flowers ; high above sloping to the bed of the streamlet only are luxuriant forest trees, whilst fringing grew ferns and large white fungi gleamthe slope is a tangled mass of foliage and ing in the twilight. All was still but for blossoms; we see the wild red-currant tree, the murmur of the wavelets purling over the wayfaring-iree, the honeysuckle, eylan. the stones. tine, large blue campanula, chicory, antir- It is such solitude and silence that lend hinum, salvia, lesser colt's foot, deep blue 110 Rigen its chief charm. Now and then


we meet a group of holiday-makers like iots, sometimes riding coal-black steeds, ourselves, no more. We feel thousands now moving about with cheerful bustle, of miles away from the world, and as now slowly and sadly following a funeral much left to ourselves as if the island be- car. longed to us; no fences, no interdictions, In another part of the island existed till no private ways. From one end of this modern times a church dating from the delicious little kingdom to the other we princes of Rügen, and on its walls hung may wander at will, affably welcomed a beautiful picture representing Saint everywhere, frowned at by none !

James. The inhabitants began to build a

new church on a more favorable site, and II.

thither transported the painting. But lo! ONE great charm of the Baltic Sea is next morning, there it was, hanging in its the limpidity of the water. So clear are accustomed place. Three times it was these quiet waves, that even at twilight removed and three times it was found when the light is subdued, we can discern next day in the old church, having transevery stone, every tangle, and patch of ported itself thither in the dead of the sand, as if it were noon. A passing sail night. At last the bishop decided to leave makes the loveliest reflections. There both church and picture undisturbed. are two little boats sailing past, but one There is a little sprite helpful to sailors, belongs to the world of fact, the other to called the Klattermann, who comes that of fancy, and that is fairest.

their aid in stormy weather, and never I was at first indeed sceptical as to the deserts a ship in danger so long as there picturesqueness of Rügen from an artist's is a chance to save it. When the Klatter. point of view, but the twilight of several mann abandons a vessel, the sailor knows successive days convinced me. It is not that all is lost. so much the sunsets, although these are There is hardly an end to such stories, gorgeous and beautiful, as the after-glow and Rügen is also the land of mirage, which would delight and enrich a painter. will-o'-the-wisp, and other atmospheric One night the sun went down in a clear phenomena. The most famous mirage on sky, and we had one of those long, lovely record was seen in 1829, when a fair and twilights peculiar to our island. The stately city, supposed to be Copenhagen, heavens and sea were of one pure pale was pictured in the sky: The mirage rose color that faded into violet, and look- is only seen in autumn. The lunar rain. ing seaward not an object broke these bow, water-spouts, shooting stars, are also quier harmonies, except a fishing brig at often seen, and thunderstorms are very anchor, deep orange in color, and one far-frequent. Winds also rage there from the off white sail. The water was smooth as four quarters of the earth, and perfectly a lake, and all was still except for the still days are of rare occurrence even in most musical little ripple in the world as summer. the quiet tide plashed on the shore. This But those rare still days! Who can scene was all the more beautiful as we describe them, whether spent at sea or beheld it from under bowers of natural ashore? The tourist must then have greenery, fragrant flowers growing close recourse to his “ Murray” (new edition), to hand, twilight, wood, sea, and sky, all and make excursions in all directions, by making up a scene fairy-like and inde- steamer to Stubbenkammer, Binz, Göhren, scribable.

Arcona, by road to Bergen and Putbus, Rügen is a little land of poetry and also a delightful woodland drive through fable. Not an inch of ground but is con. the Stubbenitz forest, to the Hertha See, secrated to myth, legend, or fairy tale. - Stubbenkammer and the Königsthul. To the south of the island, so folks say One and all of these places have peculiar and believe, may still be seen on clear charms; Binz its forest walks, and views days the remains of an ancient city buried from the Zagd Schloss; Göhren, delight. in the sea.

This is Wineta, engulphed on fully picturesque dwellings and costumes; account of its luxury and sins, alike the Arcona, a superb site ; and Putbus, the Babylon, the Sodom and Gomorrah of once famous little watering-place of Putthese northern coasts. Its former splen. bus has attractions of its own.

The great dor may be gathered from the columns beauty, be it remembered, of Rügen scen. and pillars still to be seen occasionally ery, is the perpetual combination of forest lying beneath the waves ; human forms and sea. We are ever under lisping wood. may be discerned also, tall, of stately gait, land coverts, and ever within sound of the clad in flowing garments. Sometimes quiet ripple of the waves. At all the these phantoms are sitting in golden char- places I have just named is accon moda.




tion for visitors, although Sassnitz is by height surrounded by trees, and the spot far the most convenient place to stay in for pleased bim so much that he at once cried many reasons.

out, Pe de Buss, which words ineant, Here we get our letters four times a " Behind the bush." Here Putbus was day, we have direct daily communication built, and thereby originated the name of with the continent — daily, both by road one of the most ancient houses in northand sea, – and though we have neither ern Europe. doctor nor church, we are within a day's I have said that Rügen has no sights, reach of both. It must here be explained but I correct myself. Putbus is not only that Sassnitz, now resorted to by hun. a fairy pleasure-ground, and a palace of dreds of visitors during the season, has art, such as poets have dreamed of, but a only of late years figured on the maps of show place, generously thrown open to Rügen at all. The happy notion entered the world. In former days Putbus was some shrewd head of these parts — the only seaside resort in the island, and shrewdness is a characteristic of these in its way a Wiesbaden, but it has long islanders, combined with a phlegmatic been outrivalled by Sassnitz. By comturn – that if houses were built for peo- parison indeed with the latter place, Putple who wanted sea-bathing, they would bus seems sleepy, dead alive, out of the

Houses were built, and they have world, hardly a creature in these beauticome in earnest, contributing greatly to ful linden alleys, the Kurhaus deserted, the prosperity of the inhabitants. Indeed the streets grass grown, every thing bea wholesome lesson might be learned tokening oblivion and neglect. bere by certain sections of English work. Yet the site of Putbus is fascinating in ing folks. The population depends chiefly the extreme. From every break in the

summer earnings for winter suste rich foliage of the park we get sight of nance, and I have been assured on excel the dreamy blue sea, whilst the park itself lent authority that want does not exist. is a veritable Eden of fragrance, beauty, One and all, like the ants, store up for the and shadow. We must come hither to ungrateful months, when even the fisher see the linden-tree in its glory. The famust stay at home. How unlike the state mous Unter den Linden of Berlin is like of things I am accustomed to in the south the painted alley of a child's toy box, but of England, where a brief spell of bad here each tree is a magnificent object tasweather throws the fishing population on selled from summit to base with pale goldto the parish or private bounty, and where en flowers. workmen earning high wages count on This park is indeed one of the most oui-door allowance in winter! In Rügen beautiful in Germany, and is made over there are no workhouses, and no Lady to the public enjoyment by its munificent Bountifuls. People look to themselves. owner. In the midst rises his château, The berring, flounder, and eel fisheries which well accords with the bright landcan only be carried on in fine weather. scape around it. Pure white, with slen. The sea-bathing season lasts not more der colonnades and a terraced garden than ten weeks. Yet I repeat, want is rising above a lovely little lake, Schloss unknown, and the cleanliness, good Putbus has a fairy, romantic look at one clothes, and good looks of the people with its surroundings. The waters of the everywhere are quite striking. I have lake are crystal clear, and with its swans before alluded to the scarcity of doctors. recall another made famous in verse. But then, as some Rügianer informed me, The poet tells us how “ We never get ill here !”

The presump:

The swan on still Saint Mary's lake, tion is that the rude climate has killed off

Sails double, swan and shadow; the weak throughout successive genera: tions, thus leaving the race to the strony. a beautiful image, of which we A sturdier, soberer set of people it would minded here. Another verse of the com. be hard to find, and as a rule the stranger panion poem to the one just cited, also may safely trust himself in their hands.

comes into my mind:

And in her depths St. Mary's lake, When Rügen had kings of its own, a

Is visibly delighted,

For not a feature of these hills, youny prince received from his father the

Is in her inirror slighted. south part of the island for his portion. As he surveyed his new possession, on Exquisite are the pictures we have bethe look-out for an appropriate site on fore our eyes as we wander from one end which to build a residence, he came to a of these beautiful domains to the other,

are re



verdure and shadow everywhere, and much notion of the brilliance and elaboEverywhere glimpses of the blue, glassy rateness of the women's dresses to be

But Puibus has more to show us, seen at Göhren on Sundays or a fête day. for this airy palace is a veritable treasure- In the first place it must be mentioned house of art in which the stranger is free that almost every part of such a toilette is to wander at his ease. Pictures, statues, made by the wearer, and her dexterity tapestries, antique furniture, mosaics, lac: goes even farther than this; not only are quer-work, carved ivories, Dresden and the excellent linens and clothis woven by Sèvres china, and rare engravings, gold a Göhren belle, the dyeing is her own. and silver plate, are here in bewildering We find bere a childish love of color abundance; indeed, if I were prince of which yet imparts to a costume, as a Putbus, I should build a museum for whole, very picturesque effects. The them. I cannot fancy living the life of skirts and aprons, worn rather for orna. every day amid this dazzling show, here a ment than use, are brilliantly striped, Thorwaldsen, there a Canova, over against black and gold, brown and purple, or black your writing-table a Velasquez, for ink with green and blue. The home.bnit stand a superb work, maybe, of Benve- stockings are also bright of hue, but the nuto Cellini, gold and crimson satin hang- gayest part of the dress is the kerchief ings making a blaze of color everywhere, and stomacher – the former not of home hardly repose for the eye and the inind at manufacture, but one of those cheap little all.

woollen squares dyed all colors of the Outside, however, all is quietude and rainbow sold at German fairs; the latter, rest, and the weary brain-worker could a piece of bead embroidery on which all not do better than betake himself to the the ingenuity of the wearer is expended. linden alleys of Putbus for a summer Each skirt has its appropriate stomacher, holiday:

and some of these are pretty in the exThe big hotel looking on to the park is treme: sky blue and white for summer, quiet and comfortable, and though the orange and black for winter, with an extra flesh-pois of Israel do not abound in piece of display and elaboration for high Rügen, body and soul may be held to-day's and holidays. The rest of the cos. gether for a few weeks; sea-bathing may tume consists of a black velvet bodice un. also be had bere, though the sea is not at der which is worn a linen tunic, and a our doors as at Sassnitz. We get more high black headdress; ornaments, amber. distant, but no less lovely, views of it at Every girl has a parure of amber, which Putbus.

from the days of Homer has been a Göhren offers as much romantic charm famous product of the Baltic. * as Putbus, but of a wholly different kind. “La femme est toujours plus iniéres. In this little village, on which we are sante que l'homme," I once heard a landed after a two hours' sail from Sass. Frenchwoman say, and I believe that cernitz, we might fancy ourselves in Brittany. tainly more interest attaches itself to the The Mönchguters, for Göhren is a village dress of the so-called fair sex. I will in the peninsula of Mönchgut, have pre. bowever observe of the men's costume served their own dialect, costume, and that the peculiarity of it consists in the customs for ages, and are looked upon as wearing of numerous garments, one over descendants of the ancient Vends or the other, several pairs of loose linen pet. Wends. I leave the question in the hands ticoat trousers, several shirts, vests, and of the ethnologists, but one assures me so on. They are very fond of frills and that these fisher-folk of Mönchgut are of buttons, but whether they have clothesthe same stock as the Bretons, which may chests as capacious and as well filled as well be, seeing how seafaring races trav. those of the women I had no opportunity elled and colonized in the olden time. of learning. One young wife displayed Certainly there is a strong resemblance her wardrobe to me, and a very ample between the physiognomy and brilliant one it was, especially in the matter of dresses of those of Mönchgut and those gala dresses. Göhren is what our Ger. of Plougestel and Bourg du Bac in Brit. man neighbors call malerisch, i.e., picturtany. The pretty girls in Sunday gear to esque from an artist's point of view. The be seen at Göhren are as gay and naïve village itself is very romantic, and the as the much-admired beauties of the little prospects on every side of great beauty. Breton colonies just named, both isolated We found half-a-dozen German artisis from the rest of the population, as that of

* In former days, one of the amenities of the despotic Mönchgut is isolated from the rest of

government in Prussia was to hang every peasant who Rügen. No engraving, however, gives stole a piece of amber. Joseph 11. annulled the law.

sketching out of doors; and the hotel close | sive lighthouse tower may be climbed by to them, yet embowered in greenery, prom those who wish to gain wider prospects. ised comfort of homely kind. Whether | The corn is now being carried away, and letters ever reach the stranger in this re. picturesque are these rustic carts heavily mote spot I cannot say, but it is certainly laden with ripe wheat standing out against as secluded as can be Sassnitz, a metropo- the pale azure of sea and sky. Fairylike lis by comparison, yet at Sassnitz you rather than picturesque are the little cannot buy a box of pills or a pair of grassy hills and glades leading from the stockings!

high, open ground to the cool shadows of Indeed one charm of these little holiday the shore; flowers, flowers everywhere, resorts in Rügen is their remoteness; and and many we are surprised to find growif Göhren is isolated from the world, howing so close to the sea. At Arcona the much more so is Arcona ! you may indeed forests disappear, and we look across pas. wait many a day at Sassnitz, even in sum- tures and cornfields towards the little mer-time, without a chance of getting church of Altenkirchen. Here in the last there, and once there, you must lose no century, the pastor-poet Rosegarten used time in getting back. Imprisonment for to preach on Sundays to the fishermen on a week or two in the lighthouse of Arcona “the beach during the busy season of the might indeed be pleasant enough alike to herring fishery." the artist and the botanist, provided the Here once stood fortress, city, and temweather were fine. But we can never ple of the Vends, stormed by the Danish count upon more than two or at most prince Waldemar in the twelfth century, three fine days in succession at Rügen. when the worship of the four-headed PaTwo days of brilliant sunshine and two gan god Swantenit was suppressed, and days of downpour and hurricane, such is the cross for the first time set up in the the climate of our little paradise. The island. Not a trace of these olden times wonder is that we find flowers in abun. now remains, except in cloudland. On dance everywhere, roses at Sassnitz close certain days in the year, so folks say, to the sea, and every bit of open ground the once proud city of Arcona rises from at Arcona literally carpeted with them. I the waves, and for a time is imaged in quote this description of Arcona from a the heavens, to disappear, as it came, by letter I wrote at the time : “ Past the magic. banging woods and flowery banks of Sasspitz we glide, this perfect afternoon, past the stupendous cliffs and dense forests A FEW concluding words about this of Stubbenkammer, from whose giddy“ breezy, flowery, fabled land.”. heights we looked down on these glassy Rüyen is eminently a little land of so. seas a few weeks back; past the tiny sea- ciabilities as well as of breezes, flowers, side resort of Lohme, nestled among the and fables. People who go thither for the trees; then leaving, as it seems, our purpose of makiny holiday, lay themselves island far away, we steer northward in the out to please, and whether the stranger open sea.

Half an hour brings us within resort to hotel or lodging, he is sure of sight, not of Arcona itself, but of the bold finding pleasant company, He meets all headland from which the lighthouse is ranks of German society in these out-ofapproached landwards. We have to alight the way spots, and no one keeps aloof here and climb a zigzag path cut in the from his neighbor. Little parties are made chalk cliffs, to find ourselves, breathless up for piccics, excursions, walks, and with exertion and delight, on the sunniest, drives, and are enjoyed with acquaintfloweriest plateau imaginable.”

ances of a few days' standing; even the A lighthouse generally has a dreary least sociably disposed yield to the presound. We conjure up a picture of roll. vailiny spirit of friendliness.

How long ing breakers, bare rocks, and a forlorn this pleasant state of thinys will last is prison-house in the sea. Arcona stands problematic, for the poetic days of Rügen in the midst of golden cornfields, meadows are doomed. carpeted with flowers, and dimpled green Alas! The railway now in course of hillocks from which little green ways wind construction from the old ferry (Alte down to the shore. The scene is inde. Fähre) over against Rügen to Bergen, its scribably lovely. Far as the eye can little capital, must bring about many reach are dim blue seas making sleepy changes of an undesirable nature. Ex. murmur; around us waving corn and pas- cursionists will very likely swarm over the ture, brigiit with thousands of flowers all island. The primitiveness now character. bathed in warmest sunshine. The mas. |izing place and people will be gradually


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