of a little trip to Buxton or Scarborough | should not mind it, if my old knees were or Scotland - I am not too stiff to accom- not so rheumatic." plish it — and let you two girls have the "Grandmamma, I beseech you don't," benefit of it. I dare say you will turn up implored Iris in terror lest Lady Fermor your noses, because Buxton is not Spa or should carry out her horrible mockery. Homburg, and Scarborough Compiègne," How could you think or say such a or any other French place frequented by the ex-empress, and Scotland Norway. But I can tell you, when I was young a girl would have counted such an excursion an opening for making her fortune, and a wonderful stroke of good luck."

It was like a dream to Iris to find herself snatched away from Fitzroy Square. She left Mrs. Haigh in a manner consoled "Out with them. Am I to go down on by the spectacle of the coroneted carriage my knees to beg your pardon?" with a at the door, and the undying recollection feeble movement to rise from her chair. that Lady Fermor had called in person "I have long thought the world was up for her granddaughter, though her ladyside down, and this will only be the re-ship had not behaved quite so well on the versal of our natural position. Come, let occasion as might have been hoped for me get over it as soon as possible. I from a viscountess.

It was not so much as if the present it was rather as if the recent past

- were

From The Fortnightly Review. CONCERNING CHILI.

a dream, when Iris found herself sitting IN the following short account of my in her old place, listening to the old high-impressions of Chili, I shall endeavor to handed talk and vituperation. But as Iris give an accurate description of the countold herself, what could she have done try at this moment. It was my good forafter the chief grievance was removed, tune, ten years ago, to stay there for a and her grandmother had bound herself time, and I have recently returned from a to keep the peace, than return to her duty, second visit. The progress which I found and wear again the yoke of her youth? had been made during my absence in the The house which Lady Fermor had development of the resources of the countaken off its former tenant's hands, for try was so great that one may indulge the the last few weeks of the season, was at most sanguine expectations, not only as Kensington Gore. It was beyond the to the future material prosperity of Chili, precincts of Belgravia, and beyond the but also as to the position which will be Knightsbridge art studios and the bar- accorded to her among the republics of racks, which, following the example of the South America. There are many reasons ubiquitous mews, invade select territories. why Englishmen should take an interest Its windows did not give a false idea, as in this country. Whilst England is in they looked full on the refreshment and want of what Chili produces best, Chili refuge of the grand old leafy gardens. needs the manufactures that England has The glittering pinnacles of the queen and to offer her in return. Chili entertains country's memorial to a good prince, with towards England feelings of the warmest his other monument, the huge ugly dome respect and friendship. This is in great of the Albert Hall, promising unlimited measure to be attributed to the part which music, and the pile upon pile of the second so many Englishmen took in aiding the national museum, offering numberless an- struggling young republic to throw off tiquities, pictures, the Raphael cartoons, the yoke of Spain. They served her with were all close at hand. So was the Row, as much ardor as they would have served with its midday horses and riders, and so their native country. The Chilians have was Hyde Park with its afternoon stream not forgotten this; and the strong liking of carriages, and not very far off was the for England which animates them is likely Broad Walk, that noblest avenue in which to be perpetuated and enhanced by the old court beauties, fair French émigrées, lives and characters of the gentlemen who the world of fashion and letters, once represent English commerce in Valpa came to see and be seen, to sun them-raiso. The people like to call their counselves, and shine as lesser luminaries, try the "England of South America." If reflecting welcome rays on the obscure a man makes a promise and wishes it to world crowding to gape and stare at the appear particularly binding, he says, "Patown lions. labra de un Ingles " (On the word of an Englishman); if he desires an appointment to be kept very punctually, he says,

Iris had never before lived in such a charmed region, where the hours might well seem too short for the attractions" Punctual como un Ingles." which claimed them; but she hardly no- Chili combines almost all varieties of ticed it, at first, she was so full of ex- climate and soil, and these naturally divide citement and anxiety about her cousin it into sections or zones. First is the Marianne Dugdale. Lady Fermor had northerly zone, including the deserts of been plagued by few scruples_in_calling Atacama and Tarapaca, with their im this other grandchild to her side, but Iris mense mineral deposits. Here are to be retained a pained recollection of what her found the nitrate of soda, guano, and silgrandmother had said with regard to the ver which make this region, despite its light in which the Dugdales and the sterility, the richest in the world. In this Powells must regard her, Iris. They zone rain never falls. The second zone might owe some charity to their grand- is a rich agricultural district, where rain mother, but they owed none to her. She falls only in winter. The soil owes its ferwas only a rival claimant for Lady Fertility to the rich alluvial deposits brought mor's bounty, the granddaughter of the man who had foully wronged their grandfather. It was a case of family guilt and alienation which could hardly be repaired even between the harmless representatives of succeeding generations.

down from the Andes by the rivers, and utilized by the system of irrigation in vogue, creating vegetation as luxuriant as that in the Nile delta. The climate here resembles that of Italy, and all the large towns of Chili are situated within it. The

When

third zone includes the beautiful province | has been abstracted from the soil. of Araucania, a country perhaps as favored I was at Limache, Mr. Eastman's propby nature as any portion of the earth's erty, it was midwinter, but the clover was surface. Until within two or three years then six inches high in the fields. Mr. ago, this region was practically in posses- Eastman's brother owns the neighboring sion of the brave Indian tribes who long hacienda, in which is a vineyard produc succeeded in keeping the Chilian forces at ing a wine of very fine quality, called bay. They are now, however, completely Urmenata," after Mr. Urmenata, the subdued. The climate is similar to that former proprietor there, who was one of of England at its best, and the country is the so-called copper kings of Chili. This peculiarly adapted for wheat-growing. wine is something between a Burgundy The fourth zone includes the vast forests and a claret. The vineyard also proand lands extending to the Straits of Ma- duces an excellent Sauterne. In nothgellan. The climate is like that of Scot ing is the progress of Chili more strikland and the west of Ireland, and this ingly displayed than in the advance which portion is more adapted to cattle-rearing has been made by the wine industry. than to agriculture. Ten years ago hardly any native wine was drunk by the wealthier classes; now it is drunk by all classes. At present the wine production has not overtaken the consumption in Chili itself; but with the enormous extension of vineyard-planting throughout the country, prices of wine will certainly fall before long to a level that will enable profitable shipments abroad to be made. Large sums of money are now being invested by the wealthy landowners in vineyard-planting and wine-making apparatus. Frenchmen at high salaries are being brought to the country from the claret-producing districts of France, and no pains are being spared to make the business of vine-growing succeed. Those with whom I have conversed, who have studied the subject, are of opinion that in another two years the export of wine may be expected to take place. The wine industry in 1881 in Chili produced the large total of $2,961,900. By 1885 this amount will be probably doubled. The fact that at the recent International Exhibition of Wines, at Bordeaux, Chili obtained four gold, seven silver, and seven bronze medals, in addition to five honorable mentions, speaks for the quality of her wines. It has been said that Chili is the country whose competition France will have most to reckon with in the future.

The visitor to Chili naturally goes first of all to Valparaiso, the chief port and com. mercial centre of the country. The city is built on hills sloping down to the edge of the sea, and every inch of flat ground between hills and sea is covered with houses. This is the business portion, and extends for two or three miles along the shores of the bay, whilst the residential portion is built on the hills behind, with suburbs extending inland. It is a pleasant place; and what place would not be attractive when blest with so heavenly a climate? Situated very nearly in the centre of Chili, Valparaiso is admirably adapted for being the chief port of the west coast trade; from San Francisco in the north to Cape Horn in the south it has no rival; and here all the great business houses, banks, mining, and other companies, and the firms that control the trade of the country in nitrate of soda, copper, guano, wheat, and other exports, etc., are to be found.

The journey from Valparaiso to San tiago by rail occupies from three to four hours. This line of railway belongs to the State, and is highly profitable, but scarcely adequate for its large traffic. Mr. Eastman, the son of an English gentleman, owns a fine property on the way between Valparaiso and Santiago. On this To describe Santiago is to describe the hacienda everything is of the newest and heart of Chili. It is to the Chilians what most approved type. You see there En- Paris is to the French, and those who have glish Shorthorns and Alderneys, South- acquired wealth in other parts of the redown sheep, and even the pigs are of the public invariably come to Santiago to best British breed. Owing to the system spend it. The town is situated on the of irrigation already mentioned, the fine river Mapocho, in the centre of a large mud being brought from the Andes by the plain surrounded by hills, with the giant rivers, and settling on the land, where it peaks of the Andes in the background to acts as the best possible manure, cultiva. the east, magnificently visible in the clear tion has been continued for hundreds of atmosphere, though they may be a hun years, yet the soil shows no sign of ex- dred miles or more distant. The town haustion, the rich compounds deposited was founded about three and a half centu by irrigation more than replacing what | ries ago by Valdivia. It is laid out in

quadras (squares of about four acres), with | ing of cattle, either for home consumption the streets running uniformly at right an- or for export from Valparaiso to the gles to each other. There are several northern mineral districts in the deserts plazas or large squares, the most striking being that round which are grouped the cathedral, the municipal and other buildings, all of showy and Parisian appearance. Notwithstanding its age, the town does not possess an air of antiquity.

eight others founded at the Spanish Con- was presiding at a meeting of chiefs at quest, destroyed by the Indians in one some distance off. Thither we rode, and day in 1599. We were told also that two at last came in sight of the assembly, or three years ago the Indians, lance in which was held on an open space of grasshand, attacked simultaneously and with land about the size of Hyde Park, studded the greatest bravery all the Chilian forts with large trees. On our arrival within in Araucania, but were everywhere re-half a mile of the spot we stopped, accordpulsed with great slaughter. They now ing to etiquette. Presently about a hunaccept the inevitable, and acknowledge that they cannot withstand the withering fire of the modern rifle. Stopping at a large farm in Araucania entirely worked by Indian labor, I learned that the yield of wheat had averaged twenty bushels for one planted, and the return on capital in vested was very large indeed. This farm, five or six years before, had been the bunting-ground of the wild man. The scenery continually reminded me of that of the old country. Here and there appeared large apple-orchards, and the land was as green and smiling as any part of England. It is a pity that the thousands of people who, struggling hard in thickly populated countries of the Old World, cannot earn enough to keep their families from hunger, do not avail themselves of the advantages of those distant and fertile Chilian lands still uncultivated.

dred and fifty mounted Indians broke away from the assembly, galloped towards us, and wheeled about a hundred yards off. We followed, and rode three times round the gathering. Our escort then left us, and we were invited to enter the cir cle of mounted Indians and listen to the debate. Never shall I forget the impres sion I formed of this wild man's parlia ment! We were treated with the utmost civility and attention. But though our reception was polite, it was certainly not cordial. It was evidently with no feelings of pleasure that these ancient owners of the soil received at last on terms of equality the white man whom for over three centuries they had kept at bay.

The president, who was the most powerful chief present, was mounted on a grey horse, with silver stirrups and a silver bit, and was in the centre of the The Araucanians are, or were, divided group. Every now and then a murmur of into six tribes, and governed by chiefs or applause or disapprobation arose, but becaciques, under whom are sub-chiefs; yond this there was not a word spoken by and, until lately, these tribes could place any one but the Indian who was addressmany thousand fighting men in the field. ing the assembly. He was recounting The commandant of the nearest fort is how his kindred had been slaughtered in now practically the ruler and judge, and a neighboring state how his cattle had as he reverses or ignores the decisions of been taken, his men separated from their the chiefs, the rule of the latter is rapidly wives, and children torn from their mothcoming to an end. It is curious to notice ers (terrible retaliation for some border how litigious these Indians are. At every raid). The speaker went on to say that fort a crowd of them were waiting to bring he had fled to Chili, and that if the Chilian their complaints before the commandant. Indians would let him live there, with the One old Indian whom I saw was clamor- remnants of his people, they would be ing for decision on a case the facts of very thankful. This Indian was still which had occurred ten years previously. speaking when I left; he never faltered Throughout this part of the country the or hesitated for a word. I was told that Chilian government has placed a line of some of these Indians will speak for over forts a few miles apart, for the purpose of four hours without interruption. One of keeping the Indians in order. Their our party, I regret to say, made himself mode of warfare is on horseback, their rather conspicuous by his levity of manone weapon being a long lance of bamboo, ner and the loud tone of voice in which twenty feet in length. They attack with he carried on conversation during this the most awful cries, and when galloping harangue. But the Indians did not seem away after a rout will extend themselves to be disturbed by it; they listened to the along their horses' sides, holding on in orator addressing them with rapt attenthe most skilful manner, and thus making tion, and taking no notice of incidents their horses' bodies serve them as shields. which would have irritated an English It fell to my lot to be present at a parlia- audience past endurance. I was particu ment of these Indians, and a most inter-larly struck by the quiet dignity of manesting occasion it was. I had set out to pay a visit to one of the chiefs, and on arrival at his hut was informed that he

ner and gentlemanly bearing of these Indians. A Chilian gentleman near me very justly observed, "Is it not curious