workers, especially the women, evi- | to last unimpaired so long as eighty
dently enjoyed their toil, which, pic-years.
turesque though it looks, could not be In the afternoon Madame S―, the
light; for the most part they sang as charming niece of Madame Papazoulu,
they bent over the low bushes and and wife of the minister of finance,
snipped off the flowers as quickly as the paid us a visit, and towards evening we
eye could follow, with their deft brown | drove to the village of Shipka. It had
fingers. I had never seen the native rained during the day, and the mellow
dress look to such advantage; the white evening sunlight made the damp leaves
veils and chemisettes, heavily embroid- and grass shine, and bathed the valley
ered skirts, and the bright scarlet or in a warm glow of light. We took
orange aprons, harmonized here as they a circuitous path, and drove slowly
failed to do in the barren plains of through the thick underwood and over
Sofia; but perhaps the finer forms and the grass, where bluebells, cowslips,
clearer skins of the women were the and many familiar wild flowers grew to-
real explanation of the difference. gether, with some that were new to me;
They smiled as we passed, and many and then emerging from the wood, took
came forward to offer bunches of roses, a narrow, zigzag path which led below
all with roses pinned in their veils and a little village built in the hollow of the
stuck in their broad woollen sashes. hill, and past a stream where, from the
We accepted their offerings, though we bank opposite, the red fires of a dis-
could not express our thanks, and they tillery gleamed luridly through the
stared at me, pulled at my straw hat, trees; they shone on the bright gar-
gingerly touched the poppies in it, and ments and massive ornaments of the
then went back laughing to their work. women weaving by the water, and on
After wandering for some time among the quaint figures of the children climb-
the lanes we turned homewards, and ing in the hazel-trees for nuts. We
on our way visited our host's rose-field, | paused here for a moment, and then
which was enclosed with a high wall followed our silvery path until it was
like an English kitchen-garden. We lost in the valley, and we came in sight
went into the shed where his roses were of the famous Shipka Pass.
stored; they lay in masses on the floor,
spread out to prevent them from being
crushed, but still nearly a foot deep.

What a rich, pink, sweet couch they made, all the heads lying together, not a green leaf to be seen, and the perfume of these fragrant, fresh-culled blossoms was not so strong as to be oppressive!

It was this pass which Gourko held in August, 1877, against the repeated assaults of Suleiman Pasha, and it was here that the Turks suffered perhaps their most disastrous defeat; for had they been able to regain possession of these passes the gates to southern Bulgaria-the Russians would have been unable to continue their operations in the north of the country. The fatal and inexplicable error made by Suleiman Pasha, in trying to seize the enemy's position on the heights by a direct attack on their front, and thus exposing his men to the fire of the Russians, while they were struggling to scale the rocks, was one of a whole series of errors and misfortunes which appear to have been as inexcusable as they were disastrous. The Russians held their position till, in January, 1878, the battle of Shenova gave them a final victory, followed by the capitulation of the Turks under Vessil Pasha.

Very different was the atmosphere of the other storeroom which we visited after breakfast, where the precious attar of roses was kept in a huge iron safe. The air was so heavy with the scent that I could hardly bear it, and when Mr. Papazoulu took out the bottles I retired precipitately and contemplated them from a distance. The bottles were large and flat, the shape of an ordinary hunting-flask, and sealed. He said that he sold the smaller ones at £200, £300, and £500, while he valued one large one at £1,000. When kept perfectly free of air, the essence is said

From the village of Shipka we drove | ley in the peculiarly glorious sunshine to the forest of Shenova, and I felt which follows a storm. grateful to the Russians for having spared the giant walnut-trees; indeed nowhere does this rich valley show traces of rough usage, and it is difficult to realize that only a decade of years has passed since it was the scene of such momentous conflicts.

There was exhilaration in the light, crisp air; a golden haze hung over the rain-bedewed valley, and the wet rosebuds opening their hearts to the sun, perfumed the air with their heavy sweetness.

The women were singing in the roseThe next morning the pleasant mo- | fields and the birds were singing in the notony of our lives - I already felt as though we had been living for weeks in this rose-girt haven was agreeably interrupted by the arrival of two friends from Sofia.

woods, and the meek buffaloes were slowly drawing the creaking carts over the damp grass, while here and there some privileged yoke-fellow spread his huge limbs in a cool, marshy spot. The Like ourselves they were in exuber- corn-fields showed little sign of havant spirits, they had thoroughly enjoyed ing been injured by the rain, and in the journey, borne with philosophy the their deep yellow depths nestled great night at Kalofer, and were now eagerly | bunches of scarlet poppies, beside which looking forward to ascending historic our English poppies would pale. The heights, and to making the most of blue, star-like flower which grows here their brief holiday.

in abundance appeared in millions at We arranged to pass the afternoon our feet, and the wild sweet-peas made together, and decided on an expedition a trailing border by the rose-fields. The to Shipka; but the weather, which dis- grove of walnut-trees through which we poses too often of human designs, did had come showed shadowy and green not smile on ours. All the morning the behind us, while before us rose the clouds had been gathering in threaten-mountains, above whose rugged peaks ing masses, and early in the afternoon the fleecy clouds hung lightly. the rain began to fall heavily. Some General excitement prevailed at the serious-minded person proposed whist, village on my arrival, and there was a and we settled to a game; but when difference of opinion as to whether the the weather cleared, which it did in a gentlemen were still on the mountain couple of hours, a wish for tea was or had reached the mayor's house, where found to be the predominant feeling of breakfast was prepared. Finally, with the party. Tea over, Herr von and a large escort of villagers, I reached a my husband, feeling they had no longer house somewhat superior to the rest, a rational excuse for staying at home, and was welcomed at the door by a sallied forth on a wet walk, while Mon-pleasant-faced woman with a train of sieur de - and I embarked on a game of chess with our host, and were speedily routed with great slaughter.

The plan of visiting Shipka was not abandoned, and it was decided that the men should start at five o'clock the following morning for the pass, and that I should join them at the village for breakfast.

Mr. Papazoulu had foretold fair weather, and his prognostications proved true. To compensate for the wet afternoon and night, all nature's influences on this last morning of our stay combined to make our regrets more poignant by bathing this enchanted val

children at her side. She showed me into a plank-lined room with seats round the walls and a long table in the middle, and I was rather dismayed to find that the preparations for breakfast consisted of "roses and wine."

I had not to wait long before the gentlemen joined me. They were equally enthusiastic about their expedition, and hungry for their breakfast.

They had found a herd of camels camped on the mountain, and they said it was impossible to imagine anything more picturesque. The women and children gather in front of their tents, the drivers with their flocks, and the

camels with their young grazing on the
mountain-side.

Hisser is a clean-looking little town with dusty white roads and houses Raki or mastich, a strong white liquor painted white; and the towels and which in Bulgaria takes the place of linen hanging out of every window, and whiskey in Ireland or Scotland, though the dolce far niente look of the people, hardly drunk so generally, was handed sitting at their doors or lounging about round before breakfast. After break-near the baths, gave it a general air of fast, which consisted of more substan- cleanliness and repose. The mineral tial fare than I had been led to expect, baths ought to be an element of future — vegetable soup, chicken, well cooked wealth-sulphur, alum, soda, all of with white sauce, the peculiar soft which have been thoroughly tested and cheese of the country, and Turkish cof-approved by Continental doctors — and, fee, we visited the chapel, which had indeed, if civilization advances as rapbeen nearly destroyed by the war, and idly during the next few years as it has for which the pope or priest, a pale- been advancing in the immediate past, faced, timid-looking man, was trying to Hisser will probably become a summer make a collection in order to have it resort not alone for Bulgarians. Of the renewed. It was with considerable re- Roman remains, two great archways luctance that we started on the drive are certainly worth seeing; the arch of homewards; but there was no time to one is standing, and the partially ruined be lost, as we wished to reach Kalofer walls of the other measure about six before dark. feet in breadth. But I know that I am It was midday when we reached Ke- not worthy of the subject; only in some zanlik; and an hour afterwards our moods can I get up an enthusiasm for friend the coachman, with his cap well" remains," they have always oppressed on one side, and his scarlet sash strapped me. I like beginnings better than endtightly across a clean white shirt, his ings, and the plans for new baths would short fur coat open, and a cigarette in have interested me more than the relics his mouth, drove his four horses up to of old walls-at least such was my Mr. Papazoulu's door, followed by two humor at Hisser. mounted policemen.

we were

Towards four o'clock we started We bade good-bye to our kind host again; and as I looked at the great and hostess with great regret; and, dusty plain stretching before us far as laden with bouquets of roses and a great the eye could reach, my spirit sank and jar of rose-leaf jam presented to us by I felt that our idyl was over the pretty sister of our cavass, we clat-reaching the plain of Philippopolis, tered down the rough paving-stones of the high street, casting many regretful looks back at the house where we had been welcomed with such cordial hospitality.

We spent the night at Kalofer, and
early the next morning started for Ba-
nia, and from thence, taking a road on
our left, branched off to Hisser, thus
lengthening our drive by three or four
hours.

We reached Hisser under a broiling
sun;
and as there is no more shade to
be got in or outside the town than there
is at Sofia, I soon abandoned Roman re-
mains and mineral baths to my husband,
and took refuge in a most presentable
inn boasting the only garden in the
place.

LIVING AGE. VOL. LXXXI.

4164

soon to be changed for that of Sofia, where sun and dust reign supreme. The land of roses and spreading trees, cool breezes and mountain streams, lay far behind us, and our sojourn there already belonged to the past.

It will always be a bright and pleasant memory.

From Longman's Magazine. SPORT AND NATURAL HISTORY ON THE

BOTLETLI RIVER, N'GAMILAND.

OUR first care on the morning of July 9, 1890, after our overnight arrival at the Botletli, was to shoot some ducks for dinner. The wagons toiling laboriously in our rear would not strike the

As

natives spearing barbel. Having first made sure of the absence of crocodiles, they entered the pool in a line, and feeling their way delicately with arms uplifted, thrust as often as they moved

river for a couple of days, and we had | and I waded waist-deep to recover my ridden on with scant supplies some birds; if I had then known more of the coffee, meal, and sugar comprising our fierceness and voracity of the Botletli outfit. Arrived at the river-bank, we crocodiles, I should have hesitated a had small difficulty in securing two good many times before doing so. couples of the yellow-billed duck (geel- we sauntered along the banks we came bec of the colonists, Anas flavirostris upon numerous heads of a species of of scientists), which we found here of barbel (Glanis siluris, mosala of the nagreat size, fat, and in splendid condi- tives) which swarms in the Botletli. tion. We noticed also numbers of that These fish grow to large size, and are showy bird the Egyptian goose, and of preyed upon by natives and raptorial the Cape wigeon (Mareca capensis), and birds alike. So thick were the fish in crested coot (Fulica cristata). We had some places that when we fired a gun little difficulty in getting to the water's the whole pool appeared to be a mass of edge, as the reeds had been burnt down them; they leaped desperately over to stumps. Proceeding a little farther one another in their anxiety to escape, up stream, along the now dry mud- reminding one much of a school of porbanks, we presently noted a knot of poises. I watched one day a number of those most singular and beautiful birds, the African jacana (Parra africana). These birds are usually placed by naturalists between the snipes and rails, but as a fact they partake more of the nature of the latter than the former, the head a fish. Every now and again an arm in particular being distinctly rail-like. Their general coloring is of a brilliant shining chestnut; the throat and front of the neck are spotless white, which is separated from the stomach by a shining golden-yellow gorget, which imparts a remarkable effect; below that being a darkish streak. There is a curious bare patch of bright blue skin between the base of the bill and the top of the head, which, however, fades greatly after death. The body is lightly framed and the dark-green legs are long and stilty. The average length of the bird is from nine to eleven inches, the females being larger than the males. Viewed at a distance, these light-framed birds appear to be actually running upon the surface of the water; a closer approach shows that they are merely perambulating the thin film of weed and vegetation which often lies upon the river. Their feet, the most singular part about them, are manifestly designed exactly for this dainty method. of progression, the toes being slender, spreading, and extraordinarily elongate. I shot a pair of these beautiful waterfowl this morning, and afterwards brought home the skins of two or three good specimens. The river was low,

would suddenly descend and a fish would be struck, and then would occur a scrimmage till it was secured and brought to bank. Oftener than not the fish would be missed. Among the men were some boys, and it was intensely amusing to see little fellows with tiny assegais entering fully into the sport, although sometimes almost up to their necks in water.

To

Having secured enough ducks for the day, we strolled back to the camp. From the rising ground on which we stood we had a fine prospect of the country round. Looking across the river, the view was a typical one. the right the dense reed-beds extended apparently for miles upon miles, covering the vast tract of marsh in which the Botletli loses itself. In front the reeds had been partially cleared by burning, but upon its farther bank they were thick again; beyond stretched a flat plain in apparently limitless expanse.

Here and there along the river, marking its course very plainly upon the opposite bank, grew tall palm-trees. These, and the hot expanse of yellow plain running into the far-off distance, brought irresistibly to mind one's childhood impressions of a flat and burning

Africa-impressions which are com- After two hours of this sort of traffic,

pletely dispelled among the rugged mountains and stern magnificence of much of the southern part of the continent.

Behind us, not very far off, lay one of the huge salt-pans of this region; beyond that again open plains extended until checked by the waterless bush and forest of the North Kalahari, about half a day's ride to the southward. We shot two pelicans during the day—one with a charge of No. 5 shot, a lucky chance, the other with the rifle. When brought down they are enormous. One, which I afterwards shot and photographed, measured from wing to wing nine feet eight inches. A wild goose when shot comes to earth with a good solid clump; a pelican falls with far greater effect.

under a hot sun, and amid a throng of excited and perspiring natives, the thing began to pall a little. We therefore deputed David, our head-driver, to continue the trade; and by two o'clock, when we had filled four or five sacks, the price of corn had risen, and trade was practically at an end.

Owing, I suppose, to the strong female influence, toquis went off decidedly the best, teepas next; then came copper caps, powder, and lead. We only sold one Kaffir blanket, which was bought by a native gentleman for half a sovereign, the only piece of money in all this country, with which he was ludicrously anxious to part.

a

Dove and I had our midday meal, sitting, as we always did, at our little table under shadow of the big wagon, The wagons did not appear until the surrounded by a dense throng of admirnight of July 10. The oxen had had ing natives. We dispensed bread and nearly three days and nights' severe jam to the picaninnies amid much aptrek without water, and needed rest. plause. The old headman here We therefore devoted the 11th to a Makalaka - turned up during the mornday's barter with the natives. We had ing with a lion skin, which he wanted by this time exhausted the supply of to trade. Eventually we secured it for corn for our horses and required more. about the value of 12s. 6d., and having The large wagon was unpacked, there- regaled the old fellow with coffee, and fore, and trading goods were got out. made him presents of powder, lead, At first my companion and I thought and coffee, in return for a goat which the whole business immensely amusing. he had sent us, we separated. Tobacco, We had round us a dense throng of of which we had brought a large supmen, women, and children, Makalakas, ply, we found of no value here. All Motetis, and others, all provided with the natives along the Botletli grow tomealies and Kaffir corn in every con- bacco, which they cure in a rude way ceivable receptacle-skin-bags, cala- for snuffing purposes only—and manbashes, baskets, skin-cloaks, etc. We ufacture when wet into small, pyraexhibited our wares-such as gaudy midal lumps. The way these people cotton handkerchiefs, clasp knives, per- snuff is amazing. They take it till the cussion caps, powder, lead, blankets, tears stream down their cheeks, with and so on, and then began a regular manifest enjoyment, and they employ a scrimmage of competition. After much flat piece of polished iron turned up at gesticulation, laughter, and bawling, we the end and embossed with neat patestablished, by the aid of Joseph, our terns, as a means of clearing away suinterpreter, a standard of valueso perfluous tears. In this same manner much corn for a teepa (knife), so much this flat kind of spoon, which always for a toqui (handkerchief), and so on, hangs upon the breast, takes the place and our empty sacks soon began to fill. of a pocket-handkerchief. It was a most entertaining spectacle, and Dove and I laughed till we cried again over the financial squabbles and misunderstandings with our black

friends.

The horses and oxen were disturbed this night, and we found spoor of a lion within one hundred yards of our wagons in the morning. We broke camp next day and trekked away up the river,