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sun-burnt clay used for building these structures is called) still stand. These were inhabited by the Indians. Near by is the old graveyard; I read the various inscriptions, but I saw none worthy of special note.

I have visited also the old Missions of San José and Santa Clara, about fifty-five miles from San Francisco. These two are united by a shady avenue of willows and poplars, thoughtfully planted by the old padres. The avenue is three miles in length. As we walked under the refreshing shadow of these venerable trees (recalling the Almadas of Spain), and heard the chime of the old bells which in former times had gathered the simple aborigines together, we could not but be impressed with the astonishing changes which had taken place.

It is very remarkable to what an extent the Indians have disappeared. In and about San Francisco, for a distance of fifty miles, I have not seen one. The same has been my experience at San José and at Santa Clara; also in crossing the Coast Range to Santa Cruz. In visiting the mammoth trees at the Mariposa Grove, we saw a few Indians, as we did also in the Yo-Semite Valley. Here I conversed with the Indian who served as a guide when the whites first entered the valley, at which time the tribe (having committed many depredations) were driven out. The Indians now residing in this region are harmless and peaceable. There are two tribes, the Mono and the Pono Indians. I visited them in their rude wigwams, where I saw them pounding acorns which they had gathered for food, upon a rock; and these I saw them boil by throwing hot stones into the water, precisely as was done when the white man first came to this shore. They use implements of stone, similar to those used by the Indians on our own coast when the Pilgrims landed; and I saw arrow-heads made of flint, very symmetrical, some of which I obtained.

But, in an historical point of view, perhaps the most interesting fact of all is this: that in San Francisco exist the original Spanish Archives, in which the whole early history of this part of the country may be traced. When our government took possession of the country, these papers came into its hands. They were concealed at first at Los Angeles; at length they were obtained and brought to Monterey. They were placed, in 1851, by the United-States government, under the charge of the surveyor-general. In 1858, the Hon. Edwin M. Stanton came officially to this place, and found the papers disarranged, and more than one half (now in this collection) were still in other parts of the country. By his influence and under his oversight, they were brought together, collated, systematically arranged, and sub

stantially bound.

Thus to his forethought, the country is greatly indebted that these Spanish and Mexican Archives are in their present admirable condition, and available for study and reference. They are comprised in about one thousand volumes, six hundred volumes, chiefly in manuscript, relating to grants of land; and in addition, some three hundred quarto volumes, averaging eight hundred pages each, containing in manuscript, in the original draft, or in the original form:

First. The Royal Decrees, as they came from the Spanish government. These are signed, "YO EL REY:" I the King.

Second. Official orders and correspondence of Viceroys of Mexico. Third. The official correspondence of the Governors of the Province with various subordinate authorities, extending from 1775 down to 1844.

Fourth. Records and correspondence relating to Missions, Presidios, and Pueblos; with the government and management of the same.

Fifth. Civil, Military, and Ecclesiastical Records, together with Legislative and Judicial Proceedings; many of which are exceedingly

curious.

Sixth. Miscellaneous Records, containing the daily domestic history of that time; often throwing light upon the past condition of things, the motives and views which were cherished, with the manners and customs of the people.

Seventh. A valuable correspondence by navigators of different nations, in as many as ten languages, documents dating as far back as 1767. Some of these, written elsewhere, antedate the first settlement of the country. These papers contain the history of the coast, from Cape Horn to Columbia River, embracing a hundred years. Here are manuscripts relating to Vancouver (dated 1795); also to the celebrated voyage of Captain Cook, together with accounts of Russian Admirals, English Captains, and French Explorers.

As early as 1788, statements begin to be made of BOSTON Traders. There is reason to believe that not one vessel has come here of which there is not some authentic record, particularly if the crew or officers have landed. It is an undeniable fact that from the commencement of the century, for twenty-five years, by far the larger number of vessels arriving here were from BOSTON. This made such an impression upon the Indians, that, even to this day, they call all Americans "BOSTONS!" A large business, it was well known, was early carried on in furs (commencing as early as 1790). In 1784, John

Ledyard (of whom an interesting Memoir was written by President Sparks), having visited the Pacific in company with Captain Cook, communicated important information to Thomas Jefferson (then, I think, in Paris) respecting this region; after which, he was induced to return to make additional explorations, at which time he was arrested. The enterprise, courage, and determination of the Yankee traders, at a very early day, awakened the suspicion and jealousy of the Spanish government. The authorities of the Province were constantly admonished to watch them closely, and to prevent any encroachment. The Spaniards seemed to have an instinctive dread of that intellectual and physical force which was destined to make itself so powerfully felt upon this coast at a later day. Therefore every movement was watched with constant vigilance, and no one was allowed to gain any footing if by any possibility it could be prevented. In 1792, Captain Robert Gray, in the ship "Columbia" from Boston, discovered the Columbia River, which was named after his ship. (I send with this the translation of a letter, with orders respecting this vessel,* in which are various mistakes, as that the vessel was owned by General Washington, &c.)

Mention is made, I am told by the Keeper of the Archives, of Captain William Sturgis, our late fellow-townsman and associate, who early came to this coast, and drew up a paper on the subject for the Historical Society.

The name also, I believe, of Captain Thompson occurs as that of the master of the "Alert," the vessel in which Richard H. Dana, Jr., first visited this place; and by the account of his experience, in the "Two Years before the Mast," has justly caused his name to be for ever associated with this coast.

Mention is made in 1810 of the ship "Albatross," which arrived from Boston with a company of hunters and trappers; and there is an account also of the burning of the ship "Boston" in 1803, when a party of Indians asked to come on board, and in a friendly spirit dance upon the deck. Bringing with them concealed weapons, at a given signal they murdered the whole crew except two, who escaped, hiding themselves until the next year, when another ship arrived. The account is here recorded as it was given by the survivors at that time.

This was during her first visit to this coast, under the command of Captain John Kendrick. She sailed from Boston on the 30th of September, 1787, arrived on the coast in September 1789, and remained there one year, trading with the natives. - EDS.

Mr. R. C. Hopkins, the Keeper of the Archives, has most courteously offered me every facility for examining these papers. He has also promised to look over the volumes, and make extracts of passages which may be of special interest with us, and to translate any papers which may be desirable.

Should any member of the Massachusetts Historical Society, or the Society itself, desire any portion of these Records to be examined, or a copy made, respecting any statements of vessels arriving upon this coast, from the commencement of the century or somewhat earlier, Mr. Hopkins assures me he will, with pleasure, see that it is faithfully done.

There is certainly ample material among these manuscripts for the antiquary and the historian. There are pages over which the scholar and the statesman may ponder. The blind policy of the Spanish government, and the illiberal spirit of Spanish America, brought with it weakness and self-destruction.

Each step which led to the final downfall may be traced in these Records; while the beneficial results of Republican principles, with their expanding power, constantly developing new enterprise, may be witnessed on every side in what is transpiring to-day.

I feel sure that the members of the Massachusetts Historical Society will rejoice not only in the present prosperity of this remarkable portion of our country, but that they will appreciate the faithful care which has so considerately preserved these Records, placing them under watchful guardianship, and seeking to make them available, as far as possible, for the general good.

With the highest respect, most truly yours,

R. C. WATERSTON.

P. S.-The first allusion to an American ship in the Archives of California is in a letter by the Governor of the Province, Don Pedro Fages, dated May, 1789,- to Don Josef Arguello, Captain of the Presidio of San Francisco.

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Whenever there may arrive at the Port of San Francisco a Ship named the Columbia, said to belong to General Washington [Gral Wanghengton] of the

* In company with the "Columbia" was the "Washington," a vessel of one hundred tons' burden, commanded by Capt. Robert Gray; who, in 1792, as I have already said, was master of the "Columbia" herself. (Sparks's Life of Ledyard, p. 183.)

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American States, under command of John Kendrick, which sailed from Boston in Sepr 1787, bound on a voyage of Discovery & of Examination of the Russian Establishments on the Northern Coast of this Peninsula, you will cause said vessel to be secured together with her officers and crew, directing that discretion and care be used in performing this duty, using in the execution of the same the small boat which you have in your possession, and doing the same with every other suspicious foreign vessel, giving me prompt notice of the same.

SANTA BARBARA

May God preserve your life many years.

May 13th 1789.

TO JOSEF ARGUELLO.

PEDRO FAGES.

The "Columbia" was the first ship which sailed up the Columbia River, and from her the river received its name. This was in 1791.

The President, referring to the death of our Corresponding Member, the Hon. John Pendleton Kennedy, spoke as follows:

It is with no little personal sorrow that I announce the death of my cherished friend, the Honorable JOHN PENDLETON KENNEDY, who was elected a Corresponding Member of this Society in 1858. I am sure the Society will indulge me, this morning, in dwelling at some length on the character and career of one, who had far higher claims than any friendship or affection of mine could give him to the regard and respect of his contemporaries.

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Mr. Kennedy was born on the 25th of October, 1795, in the city of Baltimore; where his father, of Irish origin, who died early, was then a prosperous merchant. His mother, who lived to see her son and he was her eldest at the height of his reputation as an author and statesman, was a daughter of Philip Pendleton, of Berkeley County, Virginia, of a family distinguished by the virtues and accomplishments of more than one of its members. Graduated at Baltimore College in 1812, he soon selected the law as his profession. But our war with England was just then at its commencement; and his pursuits were interrupted by the excitements of the period,

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