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CHAP. VIII.

DRESS.

“ Rich be your habit as your purse can buy,

But not expressed in fancy. Neat, but not gaudy,
For the apparel oft proclaims the man.”

Had Shakspeare been writing of our sex instead of his own, he might, with very great propriety, have left out the little adverb, which, in some degree, limits the axiom he has enunciated; for not often, but invariably, the apparel of a woman who has the power of selecting her own may

be taken as a criterion of her character. In some instances this may seem a harsh judgment; for there are women who affect to think dress a matter of no consequence, and who make this indifference an excuse for any defect in their attire. But even here, it seems to me, the maxim may be held true; the want of attention to the details of dress indicates, and very generally accompanies, a large amount of indifference to the feelings of others. A woman should dress to please others, and not herself; and the sentiment once admitted, that it is of no consequence how she looks, and whether her appearance is pleasing or the contrary, she will hardly stop at this halting place on the road to complete indifference. On the contrary, she will next discover that it is of no consequence what she says, or how she acts——"she does not care for the opinion of the world ;” or “there is nobody that cares for her.”

It is true that these are not the arguments generally to be heard from the young, who seldom err on the side of indifference, either to the duties of the toilet or to the opinion of the world. But whether the looking-glass engross too much or too little time, it is equally an error for a woman to be ill-dressed, since the attire is an index of the mind so unfailing, so accurate, that we need little more than a single glance at a woman to be able to learn all the most salient points in her character. Do we see a young woman dressed in the extreme of fashion, in a style which neither her purse nor her position warrants; can we be very wrong in imagining her vain and selfish, with the head unfurnished just in proportion as the body is over-dressed ? If, in addition, we observe a soiled stocking or petticoat, a buttonless sleeve, or an ill-fitting shoe; shall we not feel that indolence and impurity of person will end in tainting the mind ? Can we help fearing that the love of finery, which this style of dress betrays, will prove some day, like Esau's mess of pottage, a temptation too great for her womanly truth and feeling to withstand ? May not the woman who so loves Dress be tempted to barter for it that noble birthright, her warm and honest affection for some one who is not in a position to gratify her love of finery; to exchange her independence for a slavery which will be none the less galling because it is a voluntary sacrifice. From how many temptations is that woman free; from how many trials does she escape, who has not imbibed in girlhood a love of dress !

And yet we would deprecate almost as much any unwomanly indifference to the choice of

a

attire. A woman should be always well-dressed -dressed, not so that the casual visitor will say, “ What a beautiful gown Miss had on! or “What an elegant bonnet !” but “Well, I did not remark what she had on; but she always looks so nice.”

Now the great secret of good dress is HarMONY; harmony with our position, harmony with our persons, harmony of each part with the other. I believe were these conditions studied, with a little reflection and a cultivated mind, the majority of women would really look as charming as Nature intended they should be. We all know

or profess to know--what musical harmony is. Now I would carry the same unity of purpose, the same blending of tones, the same nice appropriateness, into the details of the toilette. Ind first, we must study our own position, and make our dress accord with it. The servantwhose clean cotton gown, short enough to admit of freedom of action, and clean stockings, and stout shoes, show that she adapts her dress to her place—is quite as pleasing and attractive, in her way, as the lady in her elegant peignoir, surrounded by all the knicknackeries of a boudoir. The fitness of the toilette in each case is an essential part of its charm; and it is this

l fitness which I would especially have you study. Your social position is such that it is part of your duty to enter actively into domestic details - to make the pies and puddings for the family repast, and to perform similar domestic offices. How much more pleasing a clean washable dress, and large apron of a similar character, would be than a shabby silk or gaudy barège. In the evening, as your duties are different, so your toilette should be so, suited to your station, and to the occasion; as rich, or as inexpensive as you please, but always simply made and fitting well.

A due regard to the harmony of our dress with our position will prevent us from indulging in a taste for finery, or even for elaborate elegance not in accordance with our circumstances ; for we should never forget that it is not sufficient for a bonnet or shawl to be extremely pretty, or very cheap, for it to be suitable for us to wear. A lady whose airings are taken in