first representation, for which the | tle prevails; nay, the crowd in the theatre is illuminato a giorno; and, latter is frequently so great, and the bating the intolerable heat, they are heat so intolerable, as to convey a pretty comfortable. In every box correct idea of the hold of a slaveyou discover one or perhaps two fe- ship, only with this difference, that male busts, and these busts are fur- while there the blacks lie packed like nished with eyes, which eclipse even herrings in a barrel, here the white, the illuminazione a giorno. Again brown, and olive-coloured stand jamI exclaim, " He that hath eyes to med so close together, that they see, let him make good use of them!" have the greatest difficulty to take a For the rest, things go on at the glass of lemonade or sorbetto; and theatre much in the same manner as if they wish to move backward or forI have already described, except that ward, every inch of ground must be now the bustle in the boxes has gained with the utmost exertion. In reached its highest pitch, and the Italy no virtue is so highly reverendoors do not rest a moment. Indeedced as a prudent economy, and only it cannot be otherwise, since at least that is accounted a real pleasure ten strange cavalieri are presented which requires the least expenditure to each lady; and the native cava- of cash: hence it is easy to conceive lieri, in these days of danger, strive that all the descendants of the pious to gain as much notice as they can, Æneas find themselves as much in lest the strangers should cause them their element in the botteghe, where to be totally forgotten.

a few pence suffice to procure them The new opera of the maestro an adequate supply of lemonade and Zanzara's is given, together with a sorbetto, as a fish in water; or indeed gran ballo, every evening during the still more so, since the said sorbetto whole fiera; so that the company re- not only gratifies the sense of taste, mains four hours and upwards in but is an object of economical spethe house; and as the opera never culation, and thus affords an oppor-, fails to excite the utmost enthusiasm, tunity of killing two birds with one the composer is regularly called for stone. I once witnessed myself the every time at the conclusion of the success with which a very wealthy piece; as are the Signore Anitza and count, who sat beside me in a very Lodola, and the Signori Gallinaccio, crowded bottega, carried on a specuBertuccia, and Pepistrello, at least lation of this kind. He asked seveten times during the representation*. ral times for half a portion of sor

At the corso, in the casino, and in betto; and thus rendered the duty of the botteghe, an extraordinary bus- the waiter, who had the utmost dif* This calling (chiamare sul prosce-crowd to get at the illustrissimo

ficulty to work his way through the nio) is not only customary in small towns, but equally common in large ones. Dursignor, still more arduous. I took ing the carnival last year at Venice, the the liberty to remark, that if illustrisopera of Tebaldo and Isolina, with mu- simo, instead of ordering two half sic by the Cavaliere Morlacchi, was given; portions would please to call for a and the composer and all the singers whole one, not only illustrissimo himwere called for six or eight times every self would be a gainer, as he would evening.

be much sooner served, but also the

waiter. I was soon convinced, how and are alla caccia, catchers. At ever, that I knew nothing at all about length one of these gentlemen steps the matter; for illustrissimo proved upon a plank laid obliquely, and a to me, that by this manoeuvre he fellow standing at the foot of the gained in every half portion nearly plank throws the ball towards him, a whole spoonful of sorbetto; since on which he runs swiftly down the the caffettiere, in mixing half-por-plank, and strikes it a violent blow tions, was obliged to add a blessing, with his arm, which is encased for as it is called, to make them appear the purpose in a wooden machine, to advantage, whereas he made it a called bracciale. The ball flies to constant practice to filch a little from the players stationed on the other the whole ones. To prevent this side of the line, and is sent back by filching, and to gain nearly a spoon-them. Sometimes the signori alla ful of sorbetto, &c. &c. &c. I was caccia also put themselves in mostruck dumb by this unanswerable | tion, and after every blow tellers, argument.

likewise in appropriate costume, carThe game at ball, which takes ry certain conical poles, first to one place in the afternoon, has but little place, and then to another, and count interest for the ladies: yet there is the points; but why or wherefore all no want of spectators. Those of the this is done, and which party finally lower class are very numerous; and won or lost, I never could make out. many persons of the higher also at-The enthusiasm of the spectators tend to admire the Signori Spazza- seems to be in general very modestrade and Parabolani, especially as it rate; a few faint cheers only are ocis here allowed to express unbound-casionally heard; and I recollect but ed admiration gratis, and consequent-one instance, namely, when the ball ly the exhibition requires the expen- was struck with such force as to fly diture not of coin, but of time only, over the town-hall, that loud and which neither the higher nor the unanimous bravos and evvivas burst lower classes well know how to dis- from the spectators. This was an pose of. I should suppose, that to extraordinary case, and hence for be amused by this game, a person several successive days nothing was ought to understand it; but as I do talked of but the ball and the height not understand it, I thought it ex- of the town-hall. cessively tedious. An open space,

The Corso di Barberi excites more or any wide street in the town, is interest, but let no one imagine that marked out with due solemnity for itexhibits even a shadow of our Engthe game, and divided by a line into lish races; for these barberi are as two parts. The players, dressed in unlike our race-horses, as the Neashort jackets, with silk aprons reach-politan or Papal guards to Cæsar's ing to the knees, and adorned with legions. The thing will neverthescarfs of various colours, look like less bear looking at once or twice; rope-dancers, tumblers, or the run for a town thus arranged for the ners of distinguished. personages.corso certainly affords a very pretty Some stand on one, some on the sight. In the streets through which other side of the line, while others the horses have to run, are erected station themselves on the line itself, Il stands, which, like the balconies de corated with carpets, the windows, || into the botteghe, and in the evening and the house-tops, are crowded with into the boxes at the theatre, bawlspectators. At the meta (the goal) ing with all their might, “Illustrissiis raised a stand, which is richly de- mi eccelenze! date qualche cosa ai corated for the umpires, who take poveri Fantini !" their places there with a look of vast I once witnessed a tragic scene self-importance. These umpires, which occurred at a Corso di Barsome of the most distinguished per- beri. The high-road on which the sonages of the town, commence the horses started was bounded on the ceremony by riding over the course right by a deep ditch, that had not in old-fashioned state-carrigés, to see been railed off. A fine bay, which that every thing is in proper order. had attracted general notice, and on The course is seldom more than three which several considerable bets were thousand paces: it begins in the laid by some foreigners (Italians nehigh-road at some distance from the ver bet), being on the right wing, town, and leads through the gate was thrust by his boisterous compeand the streets to the meta. On the titors towards the ditch, and at length first day, the barberi run without ri- precipitated into it. The spirited ders, and are goaded by balls fur- animal, however, got up, and again nished with sharp spikes, and at appeared on the road a few hundred tached to the girths. On the second paces farther on, where, though the day they are ridden by boys, called blood streamed from his mouth, and Fantini. When the umpires have one of his fore-legs was broken, he inspected all the arrangements, and still endeavoured to limp along on found them complete, the signal-guns the other three, till he dropped down are fired, the barberi start, and get dead. No language can describe on as fast and as well as they can. the rage, the frenzy, the despair of Were I required to find a simile for the owner of the unfortunate barbetheir speed, I would not trouble any ro at this sudden disappointment of of the thirty-two winds. I have seen his fair hopes. He threw himself a barbero, which was esteemed one down by the horse, rolled liimself in of the best racers, overtaken and dis- dust and blood, tore his shaggy tanced by an Hungarian hussar, who locks with both hands, struck his was stationed as a guard by the course, head and breast with his fists, beland could not resist the temptation lowing most tremendously, and ever of running along with the rest, though and anon pouring forth such execrathe barbero was full a hundred pa- tions and blasphemies as the brain ces in advance when the hussar clap- of a maniac only is capable of coinped spurs to his nag. When the ing. When I saw this fellow lying whole is over, all the Fantini, head beside his steed, which had quitted ed by the victors bearing the prizes the world so calmly, and with such which they have won, parade through noble resignation--when I say I saw the streets; and as, in the country him lying thus, foaming at the mouth where the citron flourishes, it rarely and wallowing in the dirt, upon my happens that any public or private honour, I would rather have called act conchides without a begging the barbero comrade, cousin, or brobout, these Fantini force their way ther, than this Italian. I know not how long he went on in this manner; nuine Italian eurses and imprecations; for though I had, during my resi- so that he at length received an indence in Italy, become somewhat ac- timation, that he could no longer be customed to senseless imprecations, admitted to the card - table of the though I had even heard Genoese duchess. He then swore, and corsailors curse and swear during a roborated his oath with the most storm, still I could not bear to listen tremendous imprecation, never to any longer to this madman, and ac- curse and swear again; and several cordingly left him.

days actually passed without a single I cannot lielp reckoning cursing blasphemy escaping his lips, But, and swearing among the worst habits having one evening an extaordinary of the Italians. Other nations, our run of ill luck, he nevertheless kept own for example, have the charac- silence, though his inward commoter of being addicted to this vice; tion resembled that in the laboratothe Hungarians too are real virtuosi; ry of Vesuvius the day before an but all of them-Jews and Wallachi-eruption. At length came, the fin ans, half-brothers to the Italians, in- nishing stroke; a promising game, deed excepted-must resign the palm on which a considerable stake de to the latter. That you hear every pended, was again lost: unable lonminute the most obscene words, even ger to restrain himself, yet not dar, from the lips of well-educated per- ing to give vent to his mortification, sons, and in genteel companies; that an internal conflict ensued, which the Italian never expresses either as would probably have put an end to tonishment or pity, admiration, sym- his life, had he not luckily chanced pathy, or any other sentiment, with to cast his eyes on a picture repreout prefixing some indecent word, is senting Christ standing before Pi-, an impropriety to which you at late, at the moment when the latter length become familiarized: but a says, “ Take him away and crucify cursing and swearing Italian is an him!" He was now relieved; he rubobject of abhorrence; and it may bed his hands smiling, and while he safely be affirmed, that no human nodded approbation of the conduct imagination could devise more un- of the governor, he muttered bemeaping and absurd extravagancies, tween his teeth, “Bravo, Pilato!, than proceed from the mouth of an bravo, Pilato!" Italian when under the influence of Another Italian, who was likewise any violent passion. That during jilted by the fickle goddess, had alsuch paroxysms they sometimes utter ready exhausted the whole arsenal conceits and sallies which are highly of execrations : a paroli, on which comic and original, cannot be denied. he had staked his last hope, was reAn Italian prince, for example, en-jected; whereupon, foaming, with joyed the honour of sitting down rage, be pulled off his hat with his every day to cards with his sove- left hand, and held it before him ; reign, the Duchess of Parma. This while he extended his right towards prince was an inveterate swearer, and heaven, and pronouncing the name at every piece of ill luck, even in the of a saint, made a motion as if to presence of her imperial highness, seize him, and throw him into the he would pour forth a torrent of ge. hat. With wonderful volubility he

ran over the names of some dozens | says Dio, Bio, or any thing else. If of sànti, and at each name made a the equally favourite Corpo della snatch with his right hand, caught santissima Vergine has already eshold of the one whom he named, caped him, he is cunning enough to and threw him into the hat to the subjoin Martina, instead of Maria, others. When he conceived that he || at which the queen of heaven cannot had thus collected a sufficient num- | possibly take offence; or he says, ber of saints, he quickly turned the Corpo della santissima Vergine lahat'over, and shook it violently, so vandaia-Body of the most holy Virthat they all tumbled out on the gin washerwoman-and thus, withground, where he trampled and out committing any sin, he extricates stamped upon them till he was tired. himself with honour from the di

It is amusing to remark how habi- lemma. tual swearers, but at the same time Among the Italian execrations, pious Italians, indulge their propen- with which one might fill a tolerable sity, yet without endangering the sal- volume, I have always been particuvation of their souls: thus, if the larly struck with the Maledetto da favourite Corpo di Dio, or Sangue di Dio e dal Papa-Aecursed of God Dio, comes into the mouth of one of and the Pope.--"And of the Pope," these devout blasphemers, he readi- that part cannot fail to drive to dely changes the D into B, and says spair such as are greeted with this Corpo di Bio, which means nothing; phrase, little as they may be disposed or he chews and mumbles the Dio to care about the circumstance of between his teeth in such a marmer, being accursed of God. that you can scarcely tell whether he

(To be continued.)


IN GERMANY. The following narrative, from the that we were quartered in an ancient pen of Captain L. Förster, an officer castle inhabited only by the keeper. in the Gotha contingent of troops at- We found but a single habitable tached to the French army during room, which we were obliged to share the sway of Buonaparte, is not only with our servants; and as we had not curious in itself, but also interesting, only made a long march that day, but as it serves to illustrate the supersti- were wet through with 'a soaking tious notion on which the incidents rain, we seated ourselves soon after in the very popular German'opera, supper round the fire-place, in which Der Freyschütz, are founded: a cheerful fire had been kindled.

It was in the year 1811, during, if The conversation turned on a variety I mistake not, the march from Ham- of topics, till at length it fixed upon burg to Stralsund, with the two offi- hunting and shooting: many curious cers of my company, the Lieutenants stories were related, many instances Br---r and C. von W-mt, of excellent shots were mentioned,

was missed in the retreat from and at last various allusions were Russia, and is said to have been frozen made to the secret arts of gamekeepto death in the convent at

Kowno. ers. These led to a narrative, with f At present captain, and in garrison whích, or account of, I may say, its at Gotha.

horrible singularity, I was particu

* He

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