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Balzas,

Mactallan-cocha,

[For a Table of the Longitudes and Latitudes of the most important places in this kingdom, see the end of the General Preface.]

QUITO, the province and corregimiento of this name, is a part of the same kingdom, which, although it be confounded with the district of Las Cinco Leguas de la Capital, is in some degree of greater extent, and is bounded s. by the province of Tacunga. The whole of it is covered with estates, some situate in plains, others in the spacious windings of the ravines, and others in the páramos. The vegetable productions are according to the disposition of its territory. The estates in the llanos produce maize, the crops of which are very abundant, and those of the quebradas or deep ravines, where the temperature is hot, produce sugar-cane, of which they make much sugar, the hard scrapings of which serve as sweetmeats for the common people; also honey and brandy. With the fruits peculiar to this climate they make here a variety of sweetmeats, which they call rallados, and of which the consumption is very great. This cane is of very slow growth in the temperate parts of this corregimiento, since, although there be some places rather hot, yet they are not sufficiently so for the ripening of this fruit; and it is, consequently, not fit to cut till three years after its plantation, nor does it even then produce more than once, and one shoot is sufficient for its regeneration.

The estates of the páramos, or deserts, which enjoy a variety of temperatures, some colder than others, produce corn, barley, papas, and all kinds of necessary grain. In its mountain plains feed very large flocks of sheep, which with their wool furnish materials for the manufactures of this province. Others of these plains serve as pastures, wherein neat cattle breed, principally used for their milk, of which are made butter and cheese: again, other estates are com

Tumaco.

posed of manufacturing places, where, besides the culture of cattle and seeds, the natives attend to the making of native cloths, baizes, and

serges.

From what has been said, it must be clear that the temperature of this province is undeterminable, since in proportion to its height it is more or less cold, as also more or less hot; and it is by this variety of climate that it produces a corresponding proportion of different kinds of fruits and seeds; and thus it is, that by half a day's journey, you may leave a country, where, from the heat, you might perceive yourself to be under the torrid zone, and may enter another country where all is frost and snow: but what, in all this, is most to be wondered at, is, that no alteration, with respect to the several parts, takes place the whole year round: but that the place which is cold is always cold, and that which is hot is always hot. In the páramos alone some change is to be perceived; for the coldness which generally reigns there is increased by the winds, although the manner in which these páramos are affected, and what be considered the peculiar characteristic of their climate, is a dense cloud; which almost constantly envelopes them, and which, when it happens to fall in the shape of small hail, snow, or mist, makes them so insufferably cold, as to render life precarious. With all this, however, in the parts in which there are no páramos, and where the wind is moderate, and the rays of the sun can penetrate the earth, the climate is very supportable.

The greater part of the settlements of this corregimiento, which are in number 25, have little formality in their disposition. The church and house of the curate, which, although he be a clergyman, they call a convent, from having been at its origin under the charge of some religious, is the principal building here; and all those of the other settlements are reduced to hovels of mud, covered with straw, and scattered amongst the fields, where every native has his chacarita, or piece of land, which he cultivates himself. The inhabitants of this province are, for the most part, composed of Indians, who dwell in many of the settlements, when they are not tributary; but there are also here some Mustee inhabitants, in some parts even exceeding the former; nor are there wanting amongst both some families of poor Spaniards, although these are very few. -The whole of the regular troops in the Nuevo Reyno de Granada (as appears by the Foreigner's Guide, published in Spain, in 1802) amounted to 3290, in which number is comprehended the

garrison of the province of Quito, together with those of Panama, Cartagena, Popayán, &c.] The settlements of this province are the fol lowing:

Aloasi,

Aloa,

San Juan Evangelista, Yaruqui,
Santa Maria Magda- El Quinche,
lena,
Guaillabamba,
Chillogalle,
Machache,
Conocoto,
Zambisa,
Pintác,
Sangolqui,
Amaguaña,
Guapulo,
Cumbayá,
Coto-collao,
Puembo y Pifo,
Cola-cali,

Uyumbicho,
Alangasi,
Pomasque,

S. Antonio de Lulu-
bamba,
Perucho,
Tumbaco.

The capital is of the same name, with the dedicatory title of San Francisco; founded by the Indians and the court of their kings, and rebuilt by Sebastian de Belalcazar in 1534, and in 1541 endowed by the Emperor Charles V. with the title of very noble and very loyal city, and for arms, with a castle upon two mountains, and above the same a cross, with two eagles, each holding the cross with one claw. It is situate at the skirt of the mountain and volcano of Pichincho, and has on the e. part the cordillera of the Andes. It is large and well built, though irregular from the inequality of the territory, well peopled, and one of the best cities of S. America. On its entrance to the s. is a spacious llanura, called De Turu-bamba; but which rightly should be Turu-pampa, meaning the plain of mud; and to the n. is another, with the name of Iña-quito, celebrated for the battle which was fought there by Gonzalo Pizarro, against the royal troops commanded by Blasco Nuñez Vela, first viceroy of Peru, and who lost his life there.

To the e. of Turubamba and the right of Chimba-calle, and to the left of the settlement of Santa Maria Magdalena, is a small mountain called El Panecillo, from its figure being that of a truncated cone, resembling a sugar-loaf, of 100 toises high, and having at its foot on the w. side some small streams of delicate water; which, united to others which flow down from Pichinche, form the river Machangara, which laves the city on the s.

The principal square is large; and in one of its fronts is the palace of the president, just opposite to the city-house, in the third the cathedral, and in the fourth the bishop's palace, and

in the middle is a beautiful fountain. The houses are lofty, and of handsome appearance, and the churches and convents the best in America; especially the front of the convent of San Francisco, which is of excellent architecture; and not less so is the college which belonged to the Jesuits. It has six parishes of so many wards into which the city is divided, which are called El Sagrario, Santa Bárbara, San Blas, San Sebastian, San Roque, San Marcos, and Santa Prisca. It has also two convents of the religious of St. Domingo, three of San Franciso, with the college of San Buenaventura, two of La Merced, one of San Agustin, another of the Bethlemite Fathers, and a college and novitiate of the Jesuits; five monasteries of nuns, two of Carmelites, one of La Concepcion, another of Santa Clara, another of Santa Catalina de Sena, another, a house for retired women, called the Beaterio, with the title of Santa Marta, under the direction of the fathers of La Merced. This capital is adorned by two universities; the one of San Gregorio Magno, which was of the Jesuits, and the most illustrious, founded by Don Felipe II. in 1586, and enriched with the same privileges as that of Salamanca in 1621; the other of St. Tomas de Aquino, of the Dominican fathers also two royal colleges, the one of San Luis Rey de Francia, with the title of Colegio Mayor, granted by Don Felipe V.; likewise a seminary, which was founded by the Bishop Don Luis Lopez de Solis, of the order of San Agustin, in 1594, and consigned to the Jesuits, who governed it till their expulsion. This college has produced many archbishops, bishops, and men renowned for their literature. It is now governed by an ecclesiastic, and its rector is a canon of that holy cathedral church. The other college is of San Fernando, King of Spain, under the direction of the religious of St. Domingo. The Capuchin Fathers have the college abovenamed of San Buenaventura, and the Augustins the academy of San Fulgencio, wherein they confer the degree of doctor. Here are two hospitals, the one for men, and the other for women; the latter having been built by Señor Ochoa, and both being under the care of the Bethlehemite fathers. The tribunal of the Royal Audience was erected in 1563, extinguished in 1718, and re-established in 1739; and, besides this tribunal, here are those of the Royal Rents of Crusade, and of the Holy Inquisition, dependent upon Lima.

:

Besides the above temples are two chapels; one within the town, under a large arch of stone,

of fine architecture, dedicated to the Reyna de los Angeles, with this title; and the other with the title of Vera Cruz, in the llano of Añaquito, the place wherein is interred the Viceroy Blasco Nuñez Vela.

In one of the suburbs is a fort, and a narrow bridge, by which to pass the river Machangera, of fine construction, although the builders of the same are not known. It is a head settlement of a bishopric, erected in 1545, suffragan to the archbishopric of Santa Fé. In 1736 were sent to this city, by the Academy of the Sciences of Paris, in order to make astronomical and physical observations, Luis Godin, Peter Bouguer, Charles Condamine, and others; the same having been accompanied by the naval officers Don Jorge Juan and Don Antonio de Ulloa; and these, having finished their labours, perpetuated the memory of them by an inscription, which was engraved in alabaster, and fixed on a wall of the church of the Jesuits, and which is as follows:

"Observationibus Ludovici Godin, Petri Bouguer, Caroli Maria de la Condamine, á Regia Parisiensi Scientiarum Academia, inventa sunt Quiti, latitudo hujusce templi australis grad. 0. min. 3 sec. 18. longitudo occidentalis ab observatorio Regio grad. 81 min. 22. Declinatio acus magnetica à borea ad orientem, exeunte anno 1736, grad. 8. min. 45, anno 1742, grad. 8. min. 20. Inclinatio ejusdem infra Orizontem, parte boreali, concho, anno 1739, grad. 12. Quiti 1741, grad. 15. Altitudines supra libellam maris geometrice collectæ in exapedis Parisiensibus spectabiliorum nive perenni hujus Provinciæ Montium, quorum plerique flammas evomuerunt: Cota-cache 2567, Cayambur 3028, Antisana 3016, Cotopaxi 2952, Tunguragua 2623, Sangay etiam nunc ardentis 2678, Chimboraso 3220, Illinisa 2717, Soli Quitensis in foro majori 1462, Crucis in proximo Pichincha montis vertice conspicuæ 2042, acutioris ac lapidei cacuminis, nive plerumque operti 2432 ut & nivis infimæ permanentis in montibus nivosis: media elevatio mercurii in barometro suspensi in Zona Torrida, eaque parum variabilis in ora maritima pollicum 28. linearum 0. Quiti poll. 20. lin. O in Pichinche ad crucem poll. 17. lin. 7. ad nivem poll. 16. lin. O. spiritus vini qui in thermometro Reaumuriano à partibus 1000 incipiente gelu ad 1080 partes in aqua fervente intumescit : dilatio, Quiti à partibus 1008 ad partes 1018 juxta mare à 1017 ad 1029 in fastigio Pichinche à 995 ad 1012. Soni velocitatis unius minuti secundi intervalo hexapedarum 175. Penduli simplicis

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equinoctialis, unius minuti secundi temporis medii, in altitudine Soli Quitensis Archetypus.

the entrance of the Santa Prisia, in the llanura of Añaquito, putting in the inner front of the gate, or entrance, the following inscription, on a marble slab.

"The Idea of the Señor Lieutenant Colonel Don Juan Antonio Zelaya; President of the

(Mensuræ naturalis exemplar, utinam & uni- Royal Audience, Governor and Commandantversalis).

27

16 100

Equalis Hexapedæ, seu pedibus 3. pollicibus 0. lineis 6 major in proximæ maris littore lin. minor in apice Pichinche lin. Refractio Astronomica Orizontalis sub Equatore media, juxta mare 27 min. ad nivem in Chimboraso 19′ 51′′; ex qua et aliis observatis Quiti 22′ 50′′. Limborum inferiorum Solis in Tropicis Dec. 1736 & Junii 1737, distantia instrumento dodecapedalia mensurata grad. 47. min. 28 sec. 36. ex qua positis diametris Solis. min. 32. sec. 37 & 31' 33". Refractione in 66 grad. altitudinis 0′ 15′′. Parallaxi vero 4' 40" eruiter obliquitas Eclipticæ, circa Equinoctium Martii 1737, grad. 23. min. 28. sec. 28, Stellæ triem in Baltheo Orionis mediæ (Bayero E) declinatio Australis Julio 1737. grad. 1. min. 23. sec. 40. Ex arcu graduum plusquam trium reipsa dimenso gradus Meridiani, seu latitudinis primus, ad libellam maris reductus Hexap 56650. Quorum memoriam ad Physices, Astronomiæ, Geographiæ, Nautice incrementa hoc marmore parieti Templi Collegii Maximi Quitensis Soc. Jesu affixo, hujus et posteri Ævi utilitati V. D. C. Spissimi Observatories Anno Christi, 1742."

Don Carlos de la Condamine discovered also the meridian in the terrace of the college of the Jesuits, but, having made it upon brick, it was lost by time; and in 1766 another meridian was established upon stone, in the same spot as before, the following inscription being affixed on a piece of marble, on a wall close by.

"Ab Academicis Parisien lateritio inæquali solo. A. 1736. Superinducta linea Meridiana temporum injuria, Gnomone avulso, plane deleta, hanc stratis lapidibus incisam, Magnetica Acu 10 grad. ad orientem declinante XII. Kal. Jan. 1763, Gnomone restituto, produxere, & Heliorologium quadrifons, 13. min. 17. sec. in boream inclinans, in hac Rectorali Area VIII. Kal Majas 1766, Spirali columnæ lapideæ communi studio AA. PP. id est Academici Pichinchenses imposuere."

This same Pichinchensan academy projected and built the beautiful pass without the city, at

General of this province, &c. The work of the Señores the Ordinory Alcaldes, Don Clemente Sanchez, Knight of the order of Santiago, Marquis de Villa-Orellana, Viscount of Antesana, &c. and Don Miguel de Olmedo, Commissary of war, &c. who at their private expense offer this to the public. Anno 1767."

The population of Quito is composed of 58,000 inhabitants, Spaniards, Creoles, people of colour, and Indians. Amongst the former are six titles of marquises, one of count, and many knights of military orders, and several illustrious families. The Creoles are docile, humane, courteous, liberal, attached to foreigners, inclined to piety, and of an acute genius and capacity. The Indians are the most civilized of the kingdom, extremely dexterous in all arts and offices, and particularly in painting and sculpture. [The population, in 1802, had increased to 70,000 souls-the greater part of them are Indians, and it has been suggested, by persons well acquainted with the country, and disposed to favour the new order of things establishing there, that the town should be called "the capital of the Indians."]

The temperature is so benign, that the common clothing, the whole year round, is nothing but a mixture of silk and wool. It abounds in all kinds of the most exquisite vegetable productions, with which it furnishes the settlements and cities of its jurisdiction; so that its market-place affords an immense collection of fruits, flowers, birds, garden herbs, and whatever the imagination may solicit, for the luxury of life; and all being very cheap. It formerly had a lucrative commerce, but which has fallen off considerably. With all the above advantages, it has always been much afflicted with earthquakes, which have caused the greatest mischief; as was most particularly the case in that of 1755. It has a body of militia, which was established after the insurrection of the people in 1765. It is the native place of many persons illustrious for their virtues, military and literary talents; and such

are,

The venerable mother Madriana de Jesus, Florez y Paredes, called La Azuzena de Quito, whose canonization is in agitation,

The mother Sor Mariana de Jesus.

Fr. Bernardo Bohorques, a religious Mercenarian, who died with the fame of sanctity. The fathers Pedro de Alcocer y Christóval de Cevallos of the Jesuits, apostolical and zealous missionaries in the province of Mainas.

Don Fr. Domingo Valderrama, archbishop of St. Domingo.

Don Fr. Luis de Armendarig, Bernardine monk, bishop of Jaca, archbishop of Tarragona, and viceroy of Cataluña.

Don Fr. Gaspar de Villaroel, of the order of San Agustin, bishop of Santiago of Chile, and of Arequipa, a celebrated writer.

Don Juan Machado de Chaves, bishop of Popayán, author of the work called the Perfecto Confesor.

Don Vasco de Contreras Valverde, commissary of Crusade, a subject of great literature.

Fr. Joseph Maldonado, of the order of San Francisco, commissary-general of his order, and author of many works.

Don Joseph de Peralta y Mendoza, professor at Salamanca.

Don Martin de Peralta, oidor of Quito, and of Mexico; an example to ministers for his integrity and intelligence.

Don Pedro Maldonado y Sotomayor, a young man of the most consummate learning, both in mathematics and physics; so as to have become professor of the sciences at Paris, and in the Royal Society at London; chamberlain to his majesty, and governor of Esmeraldas. He died in London, in the flower of his age.

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The Inca Atahuallpa, last Emperor of Peru. Don Lope de Armendariz, first Marquis of Cadreita, General of Galleons. And besides the above are many others, which we have no room to enumerate; although those already quoted serve to show how Quito was adorned. It is 304 leagues from Santa Fé, the capital of the Nuevo Reyno de Granada; 200 from Lima, and 80 from the coasts of the S. Sea, in long. 298° 18′ 45′′ from the meridian of Teneriffe, and in lat. 13'.

Bishops who have presided in Quito.

1. Don Garci Diaz Arias, first bishop, elected in 1545, and consecrated at Lima. He died in 1562. The Master Gil Gonzalez Davila says, that he was not consecrated, and that his election was in 1550; but in the above dates he appears to have erred, at least according to the archives of that city.

2. Don Pedro de la Peña, of the order of St. Domingo, native of Covarrubras, in the arch bishopric of Burgos. He was collegiate in the college of San Gregorio de Valladolid, passed to the Indies in 1550, was professor in the university of Mexico, a zealous missionary in the conversion of the Indians, and presented to the bishopric of Vera Paz, and from thence promoted to Quito in 1563. He assisted and presided at the council which was celebrated at Lima, at the death of Fr. Geronimo de Loaisa; founded the convent of the nuns of La Concepcion, and in his native place a house for debtors, and at Lima a chapel; and died in this city, during the council of 1588.

3. Don Fr. Antonio de San Miguel y Solier, of the order of San Francisco, a Creole of Peru: illustrious in sanctity and merits, and an excellent preacher. He was provincial, confessed himself three times a day, one time to say mass, the second after mass, and the third at night. The king, Philip II. in reward for his virtue, presented him to the bishopric of Chile, and in this quality he assisted at the provincial council celebrated at Lima, by Don Fr. Geronimo de Loaisa. He sought a licence to renounce the bishopric, but, instead of meeting his wish, he was promoted to Quito in 1590, and died at Riobamba, three days before he arrived at the aforesaid city, in 1591.

4. Don Fr. Luis Lopez de Solis, of the order of San Agustin, native of Salamanca. He passed to Peru in 1546, graduated as master, and was professor of vespers, and prime in the university of Lima, calificador of the holy tribunal, consultor to the Viceroy Don Francisco de Toledo, and presented by Philip II. to the bishopric of Rio de la Plata; afterwards translated to that of Paraguay, and being nominated to that of La Paz, promoted to Quito in 1593. He founded three parishes, and as many convents for nuns, in different settlements; celebrated two synods, consecrated 203 altars, confirmed at Lima, Truxillo, and Quito, 122,873 souls; and endowed, at his convent at Lima, the festival of San Agustin, giving a golden cup for the same; visited his bishopric, and bestowed much alms, and one very considerable endowment to the convent of San Augustin de Salamanca, to repair the loss it had sustained by a fire; and was at length promoted to the archbishopric of Charcas in 1600, and died before he entered Lima, with the fame of sanctity.

5. Don Fr. Salvador de Ribera, of the order

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