former being on the top of a mountain, the latter at the foot of the same, in a territory which has been left by the river, which at the founding of the city reached as far as the skirts of the mountain. The buildings are large, and well constructed; especially the episcopal palace, the city-house, that of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, of a square figure, which cost £40,000; and, above all, the palace, the residence of the governor, and where the assembly was held. The cathedral is small, and of bad architecture, and not corresponding with its steeple and belfry, which are lofty, and well designed. It has attached to it a collegial seminary, which has been rebuilt three times, from having been twice consumed by fire; the first in 1703, and afterwards in 1705. The Recoletan fathers have a beautiful church and convent here; and there is another of Ursuline Nuns, which, like the seminary, has been twice burnt, and, in consequence, very poor. The Jesuits had here a magnificent college. There is in this city two hospitals: one called of God, in which are two great wards, the one for men and the other for women, assisted by the hospital-monks of St. Augustin, of the congregation of the Mercy of Jesus, whose founders passed from Dieppe; and the other a general hospital, situate in the territory formerly occupied by the Recoletan fathers, and which was bought by the bishop, M. de Saint Vallier, who in this work spent immense sums of money. It is defended towards the river by a platform flanked with two bastions, which, at high water and spring tides, are almost level with the surface of the water. A little above the bastion, to the right, is a half bastion cut out of the rock; a little higher a large battery, and, higher still, a square fort, in which the governor resides. The port is very convenient, and secure, for many vessels, however large they may be, and which may here lie at anchor close to the shore. The inhabitants amount to 8000 souls, amongst these, are many persons enriched by the flourishing commerce continually

carried on here.

The English, commanded by David Kerl, a Frenchman, and native of Dieppe, and a Calvinist, who passed over hither, took it in 1628. In 1690 they returned to besiege it, commanded by General Piphy; but who was obliged to retire, with the loss of his best troops. Again, in 1759, the English took it under General Wolfe, who gloriously died in that action; after which these became possessed of the whole of Canada. [In

December, 1775, it was attacked by the Americans under the command of the brave General Montgomery, who was slain, and his army repulsed. For account of the present misunderstandings between the British Government and United States, see UNITED STATES.]

This city was erected into a bishopric in 1670, by his Holiness Clement X. after great solicitation by the court of France; and, although this court presented M. St. Vallier to be first bishop, then abbot of that church, his holiness reserved the appointment entirely to himself. It is 320 miles from the sea, or entrance of the river St. Lawrence, in long. 71° 12′ 6′′ w. lat. 46° 48′ 39" n.

[A more specific account of whatever relates to this interesting colony must be most desirable to every British subject. We have happily found many and authentic sources, to which to refer ; and, independently of some tables of exports, &c. with which we have been supplied from sources of unquestionable authority, we have made a free use of the valuable works of Mr. Hugh Gray and Mr. Lambert, both of whom had visited these regions, and whose accurate observations will be found no less curious than important. As in all cases of multiplied extracts, for the convenience of reference, we divide the following information into chapters and heads, viz.

1.

СНАР. І.

Official account of the province of Quebec in 1764.-2. Further description of the town and environs.-3. Provisions.-4. Navigation of the St. Lawrence.-5. Mode of travelling in the summer.-6. Nature of the seigneuries, &c.7. Winter.-8. Travelling in that season.-9. Provisions not dear during this season.-10. A sudden thaw.-11. Method of warming the houses.-12. Breaking up of the winter.

CHAP. II.

1. Description of the inhabitants. - 2. Exports and Imports from Quebec from 1802 to 1809, both inclusive, but not including those from Gaspe or New Carlisle.-2. Importation of teas and tobacco from the United States compared with that from Britain.-3. Exports, imports, tonnage, &c. of Quebec, in 1810.-4. Exports, &c. in the year 1811.--5. Duties payable in Canada, on importation, under several acts of the British parliament.-6. Allowances at the Custom-house.-7. Post-office regulations.—8.]

For some other memorials, petitions, and official documents, relative to the British Colonies, see NEW BRUNSWICK, PASSAMAQUODDY BAY, and NOVA SCOTIA; also CANADA, UNITED STATES, and WEST INDIES.

1. Official account of the province of Quebec in 1764. The first document we discover, of any importance, respecting this province, is the following letter, which was written by General Murray, soon after his arrival in England, in 1766, in which year he left the government of Canada. As it is an official paper, its accuracy, of course, may be depended on. We therefore avail ourselves of the opportunity to lay it be fore our readers, as it affords a better picture of the situation of affairs in the province at that period, than any other account we have met with.

66 MY LORDS,

"In Mr. Secretary Conway's letter to me of the 24th October, 1764, I am ordered to prepare for my return to England, in order to give a full and distinct account of the present state of the province of Quebec; of the nature and account of the disorders which have happened there; and of my conduct and proceedings in the administration of the government. In obedience to that command, I have the honour to report as follows:-and first, the state of the province : "It consists of 110 parishes, exclusive of the towns of Quebec and Montreal. These parishes contain 9722 houses, and 54,575 Christian souls; they occupy, of arable land, 955,754 arpents. They sowed, in the year 1765, 180,300 minots of grain, and that year they possessed 12,546 oxen, 22,724 cows, 15,039 young horned cattle, 27,064 sheep, 28,976 swine, and 13,757 horses, as appears by the annexed recapitulation (recensement) taken by my order, in the year 1765. The towns of Quebec and Montreal contain about 14,700 inhabitants. The Savages, who are called Roman Catholics, living within the limits of the province, consist of 7400 souls: so that the whole, exclusive of the king's troops, do amount to 76,275 souls; of which, in the parishes are 19 Protestant families; the rest of that persuasion (a few half-pay officers excepted) are traders, mechanics, and publicans, who reside in the low towns of Quebec and Montreal. Most of them were followers of the army, of mean education, or soldiers disbanded at the reduction

and, I fear, few are solicitous about the means, when the end can be attained. I report them to be, in general, the most immoral collection of men I ever knew; of course, little calculated to religion, and customs; and far less adapted to make the new subjects enamoured with our laws, enforce these laws, which are to govern.

"On the other hand, the Canadians, accustomed to arbitrary, and a sort of military government, are a frugal, industrious, and moral race of men, who, from the just and mild treatment they met with from his majesty's military officers, that ruled the country for four years, until the establishment of civil government, had greatly got the better of the natural antipathy they had to their conquerors.

"They consist of a noblesse, who are numerous, and who pique themselves much upon the antiquity of their families, their own military glory, and that of their ancestors. These noblesse are seigniors of the whole country, and though not rich, are in a situation in that plentiful part of the world, where money is scarce, and luxury still unknown, to support their dignity. Their tenants, who pay only an annual quit-rent of about a dollar for 100 acres, are at their ease, and comfortable. They have been accustomed to respect, and obey their noblesse ; their tenures being military in the feudal manner, they have shared with them the dangers of the field, and natural affection has been increased in proportion to the calamities which have been common to both, from the conquest of the country. As they have been taught to respect their superiors, and are not yet intoxicated with the abuse of liberty, they are shocked at the insults which their noblesse and the king's officers have received from the English traders and lawyers, since the civil government took place. It is natural to suppose they are zealous of their religion. They are very ignorant: it was the policy of the French government to keep them so: few or none can read. Printing was never permitted in Canada till we got possession of it. Their veneration for the priesthood is in proportion to their ignorance: it will probably decrease as they become enlightened, for the clergy there are of mean birth, and very illiterate; and, as they are now debarred from supplies of ecclesiastics from France, that order of men will become more and more contemptible, provided they are not exposed to persecution. The state of the Roman clergy I have already described, in]

[my report to your lordship's office, in the year 1763, it will therefore be superfluous to say more on that subject here, as no alteration has happened since that time.

"I am really ignorant of any remarkable disorders which have happened in the colony, while I commanded there; the outrage committed on Mr. Walker, magistrate at Montreal, excepted. A thorough detail of that horrid affair I have already laid before the king's servants, in my letter to the lords of trade, of the 2d March, 1765. I have annexed a copy of that letter, in case it may not have fallen into your lordship's hands.

Disorders and divisions, from the nature of things, could not be avoided, in attempting to establish the civil government in Canada, agree, able to my instructions; while the same troops, who conquered and governed the country for four years, remained in it. They were commanded by an officer, who, by the civil establishment, had been deprived of the government of half the province, and who remained, in every respect, independent of the civil establishment. Magistrates were to be made, and juries to be composed, out of 450 contemptible settlers and traders. It is easy to conceive how the narrow ideas and ignorance of such men, must offend any troops, more especially those who had so long governed them, and knew the means from which they were elevated. It would be very unreasonable to suppose, that such men would not be intoxicated with the unexpected power put into their hands; and that they would not be eager to shew how amply they possessed it. As there were no barracks in the country, the quartering of the troops furnished perpetual opportunities of displaying their importance and rancour. The Canadian noblesse were hated, because their birth and behaviour entitled them to respect; and the peasants were abhorred, because they were saved from the oppression they were threatened with. The resentment of the grand jury at Quebec, put the truth of these remarks beyond doubt. The silence of the king's servants to the governor's remonstrances in consequence of their presentments, though his secretary was sent to them on purpose to expedite an explanation, contributed to encourage the disturbers of the peace.

"The improper choice and numbers of the civil officers sent out from England, increased the inquietudes of the colony. Instead of men of genius and untainted morals, the very reverse were appointed to the most important offices; and it was impossible to communicate,

through them, those impressions of the dignity of government, by which alone mankind can be held together in society. The judge fixed upon to conciliate the minds of 75,600 foreigners to the laws and government of Great Britain, was taken from a gaol, entirely ignorant of civil law, and of the language of the people. The attorney-general, with regard to the language of the people, was not better qualified. The offices of secretary of the province, register, clerk of the council, commissary of stores and provisions, provost martial, &c. were given by patent to men of interest in England, who let them out to the best bidders; and so little did they consider the capacity of their representatives, that not one of them understood the language of the natives. As no salary was annexed to these patent places, the value of them depended upon the fees, which by my instructions I was ordered to establish, equal to those of the richest ancient colony. This heavy tax, and the rapacity of the English lawyers, were severely felt by the poor Canadians; but they patiently submitted, and though stimulated to dispute it by some of the licentious traders from New York, they cheerfully obeyed the stamp act, in hopes that their good behaviour would recommend them to the favour and protection of their sovereign.

"As the council books of the province, and likewise my answers to the complaints made against my administration, have been laid before your lordships, it is needless to presume to say any thing further on that subject, than that I glory in having been accused of warmth and firmness in protecting the king's Canadian subjects, and of doing the utmost in my power to gain to my royal master, the affections of that brave, hardy people, whose emigration, if ever it should hap pen, will be an irreparable loss to this empire; to prevent which, I declare to your lordships, I would cheerfully submit to greater calumnies and indignities (if greater can be devised) than hitherto I have undergone.

"I have the honour to be, &c." From the contents of this letter, it appears evident that much cordiality could not exist between the French inhabitants and the British settlers. The former were a people who prided themselves on their ancestry, and consequently despised the latter, who were of mean birth, and possessed of still meaner abilities. The mutual disgust and jealousy which were thus created, tended very considerably to depreciate the state of the colony for some years: commerce declined rather than increased, nor did she raise her droop-]

[ing head till order and regularity were introduced.

2. Further description of the town and environs. -Quebec is most properly denominated the key of the river St. Lawrence, for the river contracts suddenly opposite to the city, being there only about a mile in breadth; whereas the basin of Quebec, immediately below, is from four to five miles in breadth; and the river widens immediately above the city. The grand battery of Quebec is opposite to the narrowest part of the river, and is an extensive range of very heavy ordnance, besides some 13-inch mortars, which, if properly served, must destroy any vessels which might attempt to pass, or come near enough to injure the town.

The river opposite to Quebec is about 100 feet in depth, and affords good anchorage: for a considerable way above Quebec it is navigable for ships of any size. Indeed, large ships go as high up as Montreal, which is near 200 miles above Quebec.

The site of Quebec seems to have been destined by nature for the capital of an empire. The surrounding country is magnificent; and it is seen to great advantage from Cape Diamond, which overlooks the great river, and is the termination of the Plains of Abraham.

The general course of the river St. Lawrence is from s. w. to n. e. Above the island of Orleans, the St. Lawrence expands, and a basin is formed by the junction of a river called the St. Charles, which comes from a lake of the same name, situated amongst the mountains towards the n. After passing an Indian village, about 10 miles from Quebec, called Lorette, situated upon elevated ground, the St. Charles takes its course through a plain, which is separated from the great river by a ridge of high land, about nine miles in length, extending from a place called Cape Rouge to Cape Diamond. The general breadth of this ridge is from one to two miles. Cape Diamond is a bold promontory, advancing into the river St. Lawrence, of an elevation of 350 feet above the river, nearly perpendicular; and the bank, the whole way to Cape Rouge, is nearly of the same elevation, rising from the river almost perpendicular: the ridge slopes towards the n. till it reaches the valley, through which the river St. Charles runs. This ridge of land has every appearance of having been an island, surrounded by the great river. The valley is full of large round stones, and other matter, which indicate the presence of water at no very remote period, and the operation of a strong current.

On the n. e. or lower end of the peninsula, Quebec is situated; and the line of its fortifications runs from the river St. Charles, across to the top of the bank which overlooks the St. Lawrence; the distance is about half a mile and from the line of fortification to the point of Cape Diamond the distance is about a quarter of a mile: within this space stands the city of Quebec. It consists, as Alcedo has observed, of an Upper and Lower Town: the Upper Town may be said to be situated on Cape Diamond, at least upon the side of it which slopes towards the river St. Charles. It is elevated about 15 feet above the Lower Town, and separated from it by a line of steep rocks, which run from the cape towards the river St. Charles. Formerly the river St. Lawrence, at high water, came up close to these rocks; but as the tide rises and falls here about 15 feet, it gave an opportunity of taking from the river a considerable space; wharfs were built at low watermark, and even at some places beyond it, and the intermediate ground filled up to such a height that it remained dry at high water. Upon this situation streets were laid out, and houses built. These streets run from the upper side of Cape Diamond down to the river St. Charles, a distance of about half a mile; they are of considerable breadth, and the houses are large and commodious; those next the river have attached to them very extensive warehouses (called, in the language of Quebec, hangards), and vessels come close to the wharfs to discharge their cargoes; at some of them the vessels remain afloat at low water, at others, which are not carried so far out, or where the river does not deepen so suddenly, the vessels lie dry at low water.

The Lower Town is not included in the fortifications, but the passes to it are commanded by the batteries in the line of fortification which surrounds the Upper Town; so that the approach by land to the Lower Town will hardly be attempted by an enemy. It is true the Americans attempted it in the winter of 1775, but they were repulsed with great slaughter.

The communication from the Lower Town to the Upper Town is by a winding street, at the top of which is a fortified gate. On entering this gate, you find on the right-hand a large area, in which is situated the house (dignified with the title of a palace) in which the bishops of Quebec formerly resided; at present it is used for public offices, and accommodates the supreme council and house of assembly. Beyond the palace you have the grand battery, on which are mounted]

[many pieces of heavy artillery, besides mortars, which certainly command the channel of the great river.

Turning to the left, soon after entering the gate, you find yourself in another area or square; on the side next the river you see the Chateau de St. Louis, in which the governor resides. It is situated on the brink of a precipice, and you have the Lower Town of Quebec under your feet. The view from the gallery at the back of the chateau is extensive and grand. Opposite to the chateau, on the other side of the square, you have the English church, a very elegant building; and the court-house, where elegance is not so conspicuous. On the n. side of the square you have a very handsome building, erected for, and used as, a tavern, hotel, and assembly

room.

In the neighbourhood of this square you find towards the n. an extensive area, in which is situated the Upper Town market-house; a building perfectly unique in its kind. One does not know which to be most astonished at, whether the want of taste in the architect, or that his plans met with approbation: suffice it to say, that on a building one story high, you have a dome as large as that of St. Paul's in London. Never were the rules of architecture and common-sense more outraged.

From the area of the market-place different streets diverge, leading to the different gates of the city, viz. Hope Gate, Palace Gate, St. John's Gate, and St. Lewis's Gate, besides the gate leading to the Lower Town; these streets constitute the Upper Town. Outside of St. John's and Palace Gates there are extensive suburbs, which are increasing in size daily.

There is nothing in the appearance of Quebec itself which strikes one as being very different from an English town, except, perhaps, the roofs of the houses; they are generally covered with boards or shingles, and you always see on the roofs several ladders, for the sake of easy access in case of fire.

A shingle roof so much resembles a slate one, that when they are painted a slate colour, you cannot know the one from the other; the only evil attending them is, that they are liable to catch fire: from this circumstance, Quebec has formerly suffered greatly from fires. A law has been passed, encouraging the covering houses with boards in place of shingles, and, indeed, prohibiting the latter altogether.

The dread of fire in Quebec is greater than in most other places; but when it is considered

how much they formerly have suffered from it, one ceases to be surprised.

A society has been formed, called the Fire Society: they elect a president and other officebearers annually. The object of this society is to assist in the extinguishing of fire, for which purpose they have several engines and firemen; indeed, in case of fire, almost every man may be said to be a fireman, for every body lends his assist. ance: poor people who have been very active receive pecuniary reward from the society. Their funds are raised by annual voluntary subscription.

Many of the best houses and most valuable warehouses are covered with tin plates, which make not only a very beautiful and very durable roof, but are also a complete security against fire. The reason that fire has spread so rapidly in Quebec has been, that the shingles, when once inflamed, being extremely light, were blown by the wind to an incredible distance, and operated on other shingle roofs like a shower of fire. Now, the tin plates receive the burning shingles with impunity: it might be imagined that the tin plates would rust, but this is not the case. Some of the roofs are near 40 years old, and they not only remain perfectly bright, but have never required any repairs; so that although somewhat expensive at first, a tin-plate roof will be a saving in the end.

Quebec, on the n., n. e., and s. sides, is so strongly fortified by the nature of the ground, that little has been left for the engineer to do; what was necessary, however, has been done : and as the great river and the river St. Charles surround, in a manner, the fortifications in these directions, and in some places come very near the bottom of the rocks, no enemy, if a common degree of vigilance is observed, can hope to succeed by an attack on these quarters.

The least defensible part of Quebec is towards the s. w., where the line of fortifications extends from one side of the peninsula to the other, enclosing the city and highest part of Cape Diamond. There a cavallier battery has lately been erected, which commands the ground to a considerable distance from the walls.

The ground, for a great extent to the s. w. of the city of Quebec, is called the Plains of Abraham, famous for the battle in which General Wolfe beat the French. These plains are nearly on a level with the fortifications, and widen as you retire from them to the extent of from one to two miles, preserving the level nearly throughout, but sloping a little both ways, particularly towards the river St. Charles on the n. On]