city itself. And first, the Museum, containing an extraordinarily interesting collection of Dutch and Flemish pictures, without indulging in any detail of which, I may just observe that one of the rooms will rivet to the spot the true admirer of Rembrandt :-only let such a one imagine a painting in that artist's best manner, with his mysterious atmospheric effects and gorgeous light and shade, covering the whole end of a large apartment! It is called the Garde de nuit, and represents the breaking up of the city guard after a rejoicing--the figures of the size of life standing from the canvass, with vigorous, strongly-marked countenances and picturesque costumes. It is, to my taste, much more wonderful than the picture of corresponding dimensions, occupying the opposite wall, and usually termed "the miracle of the Dutch school." The subject is a banquet given by a party of officers to some royal guests; and its merit consists in the combination of minute finishing with bold general effect—not a fruit upon the table but would bear the criticism of an epicure, and might have been an individual portrait, like the human figures: it is painted by Vanderhelst. Next, the old Stadthouse, or palace, as it has been called, since it was the residence of Louis Buonaparte, which possesses many fine paintings and ornamented apartments, besides the grand audience chamber, magnificent, both in its dimensions and its richly sculptured white marble walls. From the tower of this building we had a prospect over the whole city, with clusters of windmills beyond to the very horizon, the boundless expanse of the Zuyder Zee on one side; the river Y, with lines of shipping, and the opposite land stretching on the other side to Saardam, the diagonal passage to which is called eight miles. A steamer had just started to cross over, and though we had previously resolved not to avail ourselves of the opportunity, as we should have found no conveyance at Saardam to take us to Brock, yet we were reminded by it that it was past three o'clock. We hastily visited the Exchange, and the two principal churches, the old and the new, of which the latter is the largest. The interior is vast and, lofty, with an organ much exceeding in size that at Rotterdam; a remarkable pulpit; and a splendid monument to Admiral De Ruyter.

Entering a boat, we now soon passed through the wood-work barrier in front of the vessels at anchor, and were ferried directly across the Y, a distance of about two miles, to Buyksloot, which presented no character of neighbourhood to a great city, as it consisted of little more than a public house, though it may have increased since the opening of the new grand canal from the Helder. Here a single carriage was kept for hire, and fortunately it was disengaged. In Holland,

however, nothing is done in a hurry, so that while it was getting ready we took a little refreshment, and gained the landlord's heart by noticing his paintings and prints, upon the value of which he expatiated like a connois

seur.

Brock is, perhaps, six miles inland from hence, and the approach from the opposite side of a smooth lake, round which it is extended in a semi-circular form-its freshpainted villas, mostly white, yellow, and green, surrounded by trim gardens, with snug fantastic summer-houses of all colours reflected in the surface of the water-is so singularly pretty that the rhapsodical phraseology of the note* can scarcely be deemed an exaggeration. In sober seriousness, it is a most extraordinary place, where the quintessence of Dutch peculiarities has been so carefully preserved, that it is visited as a curiosity, not only by strangers, but by the Dutch themselves. Innovation, however, has made some progress even here, for we were told that formerly no visiter was permitted to enter in his shoes, clean slippers being kept at the end of the town for the purpose; but now no objection is made on a clean day, though still, no wheeled carriage of any description is allowed to soil the brightness, or disturb the quiet, of the streets, in which, except the persons who did the honours to us, I do not know that we saw a single creature out of doors, so that it looked like a spectre-town, or the scene of a play. In wandering through the interior, we found everything in accordance with the neatness of its exterior, each house being worthy of notice for some fancy in style, or ornaments, or garden, or entrance; and all bright and showy, as if dirt were a nonentity. Even the flowers were subjected to such discipline as to appear artificially coloured, and the very sticks that propped them up were carefully painted and gilt; while statues abounded in the gardens, classical, pastoral, and humorous; in short, it would be endless to enumerate the various displays of capricious taste here.

Each dwelling has a back, or side, entrance for ordinary use, the front door (upon which the richest architectural embellishment is often lavished,) never being opened more than once a year, or upon the peculiar occa

But what shall I say of Brock? the pretty, neat clean, singular, unique, picturesque, quiet, artificial fanciful, rural, elegant, polished, unchangeable, inde believe of living: a fair-weather holiday retreat tha scribable, village of Brock? It is a toy; a make the winds of heaven may not visit too roughly; i place of repose from life's elsewhere stormy career; village in Sunday clothes; a Midsummer nights should ever reign, where the night should only dra (or day's) dream; a Dutch elysium, where sprin a thin veil over the day, where sorrow should neve come, but where the inscription I saw upon one of i exquisite, fantastic dwellings, should literally app to the place itself," Peace be with you on entering! From the Tatler, edited by Mr. Leigh Hunt.

sion of a marriage or death; and at such times only is there any use made of the principal room, appropriately called the Chambre de parade, which is generally kept close with curtains and shutters, and only entered to be scrubbed! Some of these state-apartments are said to be sumptuously furnished, as we readily believed from the style of such other rooms as we got a glimpse of. A birth does not appear to be considered of sufficient importance for throwing open the splendours of the sanctum; but there is a custom, not limited to Brock, of hanging outside the door an ornamental piece of needlework, not unlike a large toilet pincushion, to intimate an addition to the family, and the neighbours know by its shape the sex of the little stranger. We went through a show dairy farm, where Gouda cheeses are manufactured with a laudable attention to regularity and neatThere seemed to be nobody at home but the children, who explained the process; until, on looking round a neat parlour, we observed in a closet bed, a sick old man, their grandfather; he was not disconcerted, for everything had been arranged fit to be seen, and he was, no doubt, aware we should leave something to compensate for our intrusion.

ness.

Returning for some distance by the same road, we afterwards struck off to the right till we reached a fine, level bank, on the top of the high dyke which protects the land from the overflowing of the Y, and where consummate skill and industry are still used in making fresh conquests from the water; large and valuable tracks in this neighbour hood having been but recent acquisitions. The view from the dyke is really superb, and I mention this particularly, because there seems to be an impression in England that the scenery of Holland can present little to gratify the eye. On the opposite side of the fine sheet of water, Amsterdam presents a noble aspect to the left, with its towers and steeples, and fringed by clustering masts and rigging of ships in the port, besides other vessels scattered around; and the country can be traced to the right until the extreme distance is intersected by the nearer ground on our side of the river, where Saardam appears in sight; a picturesque feature being given to the whole by a profusion of windmills, of which about two thousand, at various distances, are visible from this spot!

If our raised expectations were gratified at Brock, we were even more surprised with Saardam, as we were unprepared to find it either so pretty or so extensive; and we considered our visit to it as one of the most agreeable bits in our journey. It is like Brock, consisting in great measure of snug rus in urbe retreats; but unlike it, in being partly a place of bustle, and still considerably engaged in ship-building. The side of the

town we first came to is open and cheerful, with a few good shops, in one of which, by the way, we bought some substantial looking cakes, which, on being applied to the mouth, unexpectedly dissolved, mocking the appetite, like the fabled viands of Tantalus. We then crossed the river Zaan, from which the town takes its name (being usually written Zaandam in Holland,) and which is here a respectable stream running into the broader Y, the latter indeed being a branch of the Zuyder Zee rather than a river. In the ferry-boat were nearly a dozen passengers, some of them venerable ladies in full dress of the picturesque Friesland costume; and the mellowed evening glow gave a Cuyp-like appearance to the scene, while our fancy was farther thrown back upon old times by our being in search of the residence of Peter the Great! This is a wooden hut, in the same state as when occupied by its illustrious inmate, only that it is cased round for protection by an open brick building. It possesses only a front and back room, the latter containing the identical table and chair the Czar made use of, as he sat at the window, contemplating the busy scene which the view must then have afforded, and revolving in his lofty mind the means of making his own country similarly prosperous. The result of his self-restraint in working as a common shipwright has now been developed; and when the late emperor, Alexander, made a pilgrimage to this spot, he must have felt how much he owed to the genius of his ancestor in being himself enabled to act as arbiter in the affairs of civilized Europe. The dockyard in which Peter was actually employed still exists near his house, which is shown by an intelligent labouring man, who appears to have obtained this privilege as a reward for good behaviour; and his wife, an Englishwoman, delighted with the opportunity of talking her own language, exhibited to us her ten children with feelings of pride.

What we had hitherto seen was, no doubt, part of Saardam, but by no means Saardam itself. We were surprised at afterwards coming to a street, if street it can be called, of about two miles in length, consisting of neat houses, in the Dutch ornamental style, separated from one another, each with its own drawbridge across the ditch straight along in front, and surrounded by a gardena smaller ditch turning off perpendicularly between each, or nearly so; the intervals affording vistas, on one side into the country, and on the other to the river, which flowed at some distance in a parallel direction. An opening, or square, occurs near the middle, at the bottom of which stands the church, which is, as usual, large, and with an elegant open spire. A couple of storks had their wooden nest, in shape an inverted pyramid, on the roof, and stood, according to custom,

on one leg, looking betwixt us and the clear sky like sculptured ornaments. These birds possess almost a sacred character in Holland, the people preparing habitations for them on their chimney-tops; and they may be seen in some of the fishing-towns stalking about to collect the offal, conscious of being unmolested, in the midst of the crowd. Recross

ing the river at another ferry considerably higher up, we walked along a line of road corresponding to that on the opposite side, but with houses on a less showy scale; and through the openings between them the summer-houses on the other bank of the river, in the gardens of the larger residences already mentioned, had a pretty effect.

At the inn where we had left our vehicle, a large dish of cutlets tempted us to sup, and we then rode back to Buyksloot in the moonlight, which she a mild lustre on the distant capital and the smooth water between. It was so late that we had to pay double fare to get rowed across the Y, and double toll to obtain admittance into the harbour.

We went to one of those establishments for music and dancing, where females are subjected to a species of legalized slavery, the proprietors having them in their power as long as a claim exists for board, lodging, and clothing, which can easily be made to exceed the means of repayment. It is said that decent children are occasionally taken to these places by their parents, with the view of deterring them from any deviation from strict virtue, on the same principle as the young Spartans were taught to be disgusted with intoxication by an exhibition of its effects upon their Helots; but surely none but an unimaginative Dutchman could anticipate a favourable tendency, as in public everything is couleur de rose! It was too late to see much company, and we merely stopped to taste some excellent arrack punch. We did not reach our hotel till after midnight, and we were obliged to rise early in the morning, having to walk about a couple of miles before six o'clock, to join the Trakschuit (travelling-barge, or water-coach). But we found our poor guide before us, waiting with anxious countenance to beg we would relieve him from a charge against him of having been the cause of our not dining, &c. for the good of the house on the previous day. The landlord, who was also stirring, received our intercession with politeness, though all the time he made bitter byspeeches to the culprit, leaving it doubtful whether he was to be forgiven; but I trust his interests did not ultimately suffer through the guide's zeal for our gratification. To show his gratitude for our attempt in his favour, he insisted on accompanying us in a torrent of rain to point out everything he thought interesting on the way, and to assist in our embarkation. He seemed altogether a good

natured creature of impulse, who would not hurt a fly. W. G.

HAWTHORNDEN. (To the Editor.)

YOUR No. 620, contains an interesting account of Hawthornden, the birthplace of the poet,

Drummond. As addenda to that account, the following inscriptions (copied during my visits to that attractive spot) may not prove unacceptable.

The first is a caution to

visiters, couched in a somewhat uncourteous and warlike style, and painted on a board which is placed in an outhouse.

"The gard'ner at a hole looks out:
(And holes are plenty hereabout;)
A pair of pistols by his lug.
One load with ball, the other slug.
A blunderbush of cannou shape,
Just ready to discharge with grape,
His traps of steel, and tempered metal,
He sets in places sly and kittle.
Whoe'er shall touch his flowers or fruit,
He's sure to either catch or shoot.
Let midnight thief or robber, stand
And pause, ere he put forth his hand;
While such as come in open day

May look, but carry naught away!" The other is taken from the album, in which are inscribed the names of visiters. "At Hawthornden is to be seen

What architecture once has been.
On Gorton's banks the bonnie view
Will show what art and nature do.
At Roslin Chapel you will find
That masonry is sair declined.
Mark well these scenes! The poet says
They're only seen on lawfu' days."

The chapel at Rosl'n, here spoken of, is in excellent preservation; and everywhere presents specimens of elaborate sculpture. One of the pillars differs from all the rest, and is called the 'Prentice Pillar, from a tradition of its having been finished by the mason's apprentice, during the absence of his master; who, on his return, from chagrin at being surpassed, put him to death.

At the castle, which is 700 years old, the visiter is conducted through two ranges of apartments, with very high windows, and loopholes beneath. These apartments were formerly appropriated to the soldiers of the garrison. The old bake-house and kitchen are pointed out; the latter is furnished with an immensely large fireplace. Below are the dungeons, cut out of the solid rock. Two other stories are still in tolerable preservation; and rooms in them are occupied by the village school-mistress.

In the description of Hawthornden, a notice of its caves should not be omitted. They are said to have been the retreat of Robert Bruce. One of the apartments is styled his bed-room, and another his library. The rocky sides of the latter are chiseled into square compartments, for the purpose, as is avered, of holding books."

N. ROGERS, M. D.

Antiquariana.

TRADESMEN'S TOKENS.

DURING the latter part of the seventeenth cen. tury there was a great scarcity of copper coin in England, particularly in the north; to remedy this, many respectable tradesmen in different towns coined brass tokens of different nominal value, all below the intrinsic. Kendal had several, various specimens of which are in the museum there. About three years ago there was found at Appleby, on removing an old building, a brass coin rather smaller than a shilling of the coinage of George III., inscribed "Christopher Birkbeck, in Appleby, his penny, 1668;" and lately another very small brass coin was found, on repairing the bridge there, inscribed on one side "Edward Guy, in Appleby, 1666,” and on the

OTHER CURIOUS COINS.

In the churchyard of St. Mary's, New Ross, was lately dug up a copper coin, bearing on one side the words Quiescat Plebs; the other side was illegible. It is supposed to have been coined in the reign of Charles I. during his struggles with the Parliament, and is described in Simon's Essay on Irish Coins, as representing on one side St. Patrick driving the noxious creatures before him, with Quiescat Plebs, while the other side represents the king playing on the harp; the crown is inlaid with brass; the motto upon this side is Floreat Rex.-Waterford Mirror.

At Hurkledale, in the parish of Cummertrees, were lately dug up 200 bright silver coins, within a circle not more than a yard in diameter. There were ten or twelve varieties; of these, four very fine specimens are as follow: they vary a little in size, the largest being about as broad as, though thinner than, a sixpence. On each side of all are two concentric circles, composed of little dots, and between are the inscriptions. On one side there is invariably a king's head with the crown on it; and on the other, with some exceptions, a cross dividing four stars from one another, or twelve balls placed in the four right angles by threes, in a triangular manner. The three balls were the emblem, or crest, of the Lombard merchants, who at one time monopolized almost the

entire trade of England. All belong to the thirteenth century, and appear coins of Alexander III. of Scotland, or Edward I. of England.-Dumfries Journal.

ANCIENT SHIP AT MOUNT'S BAY.

THE discovery of the hull of a vessel imbedded in the beach near Newlyn, Mount's Bay, has excited much curiosity. She was about 50 tons, flat-bottomed, clincher-built, of oak, 30 feet long. Her ribs were only four inches apart, and sufficiently strong for a vessel double her size. There were marks of nails, but not a bit of iron was found, from which it would seem that wood, when shut up from the air, is the most durable. The vessel appears to have been in ballast when lost; two ancient coins were found on board, one of which is in perfect preservation, and bears the inscription" Ave Maria," but it is without date. It resembles the coins of the fourteenth century, and is supposed of AngloNorman origin.

TESSELATED PAVEMENT.

AN excavation was lately made in front of the supposed site of the high altar, among the ruins of Neath Abbey. The pavement of painted tiles was discovered at the depth of about a yard, covered by a mass of earth and rubbish. The materials were Pyle, Sutton, and Bath stone. The pavement was perfect, and consisted of three rows of tiles, the eastern containing the arms of England, the centre those of Turbervill, and the western those of Robert Fitzhamon, branded by a border of quatrefoils. A step of a few inches in depth led to the lower portion of the pavement, which was formed of a representation of a human figure on horseback, blowing a horn, accompanied by a dog in pursuit of a stag probably St. Hubert; ornamental cinquefoils formed the remainder of the pattern. A tile, with the arms of de Braos, and another with the shield of Berkeroles, were found, and portions of a wide-mouthed jar and an ancient keg. A smaller pavement was also discovered in part of the conventual buildings south of the church, which may have been the muniment room.-Cambrian.

URN BURIAL.

Two urns, illustrative of this interesting custom, have recently been dug up in a gravel pit, near Cullen House, in Banffshire. They contained decayed bones, and were found about five feet below the surface, covered with a large, flat stone. The colour of the composition is red, very much resembling a modern tile or brick, with some streaks of a black material running through it on the side. The urns are about thirteen inches deep, tapering or bulging out gradually from