firmly and neatly with the other, and cut off the superfluous bit. Now thread three shells on the wire, so arranged that the end of the first and the point of the third shall meet the corresponding end and point of that shell of the square already formed, which, when these three are bent into their positions, will constitute the fourth side of this second square. Loop the wire through the corner of the foundation square, and we have the second completed.

A certain firmness, divested however of tightness, is requisite in performing these manipulations; for if the shells are jammed too closely together, the work will have an uneven, stiff appearance, whereas if they are left too loose the fabric will never set in form, and will look slovenly. The drawing the wire through the corners of the preceding squares, in order to complete the one which is being worked, too, is a nice ope

ration, which must be gently done, or we may crack the work; and securely and neatly managed, or the squares will not be firm and compact.

Three shells are now again to be symmetrically threaded, and formed into a square, and fastened down to the central one. Two other squares are then to be formed in like manner, and we now have five, or one on each of the four sides of the foundation square. All the sixteen shells used for this should be small, and as nearly as possible of a size.

The wire is now passed up through the inside of the shell nearest to it, and it will be found that the next round of squares will be formed, first, by threading two shells, and bending them into position, and fastening them down at the corner, over the place where the preceding round has left us two sides of a square, and then by threading

three shells, and bringing them into shape, where we have only one side ready for us. The two shells, and the three shells, used alternately, will produce another round, consisting of eight squares. Care must be taken to use shells of equal size for a round, although in each fresh round the size of the shells should be in a slight degree increased. The backs of the shells must all lie one way, and the openings the other; the latter constitutes the inside of the basket, as they do not look so uniform and handsome.

The following engraving will give an idea

of the appearance of the fabric in an early stage.

When it is necessary to take a fresh length of wire it must be joined on close to the corner of a completed square, by twisting it firmly and neatly with the end of the length just used up, and cutting up the superfluous point.

The third round is formed as the second, by using alternately the two and the three shells as required to complete the squares.

The number of rounds which are to be worked for the bottom depends entirely upon the size which we design to make the basket. In general, these three, or at any rate, four rounds, will be sufficient to make a very pretty sized one,

The next round is to be worked exactly in the same way and with exactly the same sized shells as the last one of the bottom, and after it is worked it is to be turned up, like a rim, all round. This commences the basket itself.

These rounds are now to be added with the small shells, and shaped into form; and then the middle-sized shells, in rounds of gradually increasing size, are to be used for about six rounds; and then the large shells in gradually increasing size, are to be brought in use and continued until the basket is finished.

It will soon be perceived, while working, that it will occasionally be necessary to miss a square, or to add one or more here and there, in order to preserve the raised, and opened, and rounded form requisite for the oval of a basket. The symmetrical arrangement of the points and ends must be carefully attended to, or else the star-like combinations, which add so materially to the appearance of the fabric, will be marred or lost.

A pair of tweezers, or very small nippers, may be used for twisting the wire when fastening on a fresh length, as the fingers will thus be saved, and additional firmness obtained.

Having raised the basket-work to the required height, which, when the bottom consists of four rounds, should be about six inches, a piece of round silk wire, either white or coloured, and exactly the size, but not larger than the circle of the top of the basket, must be taken, and firmly attached to the edge of the basket with middle-sized wire; this is to give shape and firmness to the work, and to this another piece of wire is attached, to form the handle.

The basket must now be trimmed, and for this purpose we make two light and graceful wreaths, one long enough to go round the top of the basket, and the other as long as the handle. The single flower, the bud, the spiral group, and leaves of seven or nine shells each, are what will be required for an ordinary sized basket. When the wreath is made in simple RiceShell-Work, the stems must be twisted, and the wreath bound together with fine silver wire, and attached to the handle and to the circular wire with the same; the silk wire used must be white.

If, however, the wreath is to be made in the "composite" style, light flower-seeds or small glass beads may be introduced into the centre of the flowers, and the stems may be wound, and the wreaths put together with floss silk, and then they are to be attached to the handle and circular wire with fine chenil.

The following combinations

are pretty and effective: beads or seeds of pink, or yellow, or coral, or blue, and the stems of the flowers and buds wound with silk to match, the stems of the leaves wound with green, and the wreaths attached in their places with green chenil. There should not be more than two colours, the green and one other, used at a time, and these should be delicate shades; for the shells have so pure and light an appearance, that anything in the least degree showy or gaudy, spoils the effect of the whole.

Pendant from below each end of the

handle, should be a grape-like bunch of shells, not set on so closely together as in the wheat-ear, or so far apart as in a leaf, and reaching about half way down the basket.

When completed, the article should be placed under a glass case to preserve it from dust and injury, and a few wax or artificial flowers may be tastefully arranged in it with advantage.

A square basket, or a long, straight-sided one, or one in almost any given shape, may be made in this lattice-work, by manufacturing each piece separately, and in the required shape, and then lacing them together with silver wire, chenil, or twist. There is, however, no trimming more graceful, or better adapted for them than the wreath.

If thought fit, the wreath, however, need only be put round the top of the basket, and the handle made of a succession of squares of the kind we have described. Light wreaths, either of " "simple" or composite" Rice-Shell Work may, with very pretty effect be entwined around alabaster vases or baskets.

For wedding cakes, rice-shell wreaths and bouquets, with silver bullion in the flowers, are both tasteful and appropriate.

Intermingled with groups of the wax, or artificial, or feather, or paper flowers, the shell-leaves and double and daisy flowers look very pretty.

As the shells never wear out, when any ornament is crushed, or soiled, or tarnished, it can be cut up, the wires picked out, and the shells, when washed and dried, will be ready to be used again and again.

But we are sure that we have suggested quite enough to our readers to enable them to devise for themselves many other pretty

and fanciful uses for this work; and we feel convinced, that when once they have overcome the first difficulties of learning it, they will find pleasure in seeing the gracefnl articles that will, as it were, develop themselves under their busy fingers.

And so we now take our leave of this subject for the present, commending it to the favourable attention of those who may have taken the trouble to peruse what we have written.

DIAL INSCRIPTIONS.

MR. CUTHBERT BEDE, in "Notes and from dials, collected by himself in various Queries," gives the following inscriptions parts of the kingdom :

In the churchyard of Areley-Kings, Worcestershire, is a curious dial, the pillar supporting which has its four sides carved the following inscriptions. with figures of Time and Death, &c., and

On the south side, where is the figure of Time :

"Aspice-ut aspicias."
"Time's glass and scythe
Thy life and death declare,
Spend well thy time, and
For thy end prepare."

Consider

"O man, now or never;
While there is time, turn unto the Lord,
And put not off from day to day."

On the north side, where is the figure of Death standing upon a dead body, with his dart, hour-glass, and spade :

"Three things there be in very deede,

Which make my heart in grief to bleede:
The first doth vex my very heart,
In that from hence I must departe;
The second grieves me now and then,
That I must die, but know not when;
The third with tears bedew my face,
That I must die, nor know the place.
I. W.

fecit, Anno Dmi.

1687."

"Behold my killing dart and delving spade; Prepare for death before thy grave be made; for

After death there's no hope."

"If a man die he shall live again. All the days of my appointed time Will I wait till my days come."-Job xiv. 14. "The death of saints is precious,

And miserable is the death of sinners."

"Whatsoever ye would that men
Should do unto you,

Do ye even so unto them."

1. THE Chess-board must be so placed that either player has a white corner-square on his right hand. If such has not been observed, it may be corrected provided four moves have not been played on each side.

2. If a piece or pawn has been misplaced, the mistake may be rectified before four moves have been played on each side, but not afterwards.

3. A player having omitted to put up any of his men, may correct the error before the completion of the fourth move, but not afterwards.

4. If a player, giving the odds of a piece or pawn, forget to remove it from the board, his opponent has the option of proceeding with the game or recommencing it.

5. The first move is taken alternately, lots being drawn to determine the first move in the first game. On a game being drawn the party having had the first move in it moves first in the next game.

6. The player giving odds has the right of moving first in every game, unless otherwise agreed. When a pawn is given, it is always understood to be the King's Bishop's Pawn.

says

7. If a player touches a piece or pawn he must play it, unless, while touching it, he "J'adoube," or words to that effect. 8. As long as the player has not quitted the piece or pawn he has touched, he may play it to any square except where he took it from; but, having released it, he may not recall the move.

9. Should a player touch one of his adversary's men, without saying "J'adoube," or words to that effect, his adversary may compel him to take it, if it can legally be

taken, or, if not, compel him to play his King but if the King happens to be so situated that he cannot legally move, no penalty is inflicted.

10. If a player moves one of his adversary's men, the latter may inflict one or the other of the following three penalties: 1st, let him abide by it as if the move were correct; 2nd, make him take it, if it is ea prise; 3rd, replace the piece or pawn and compel him to move his King.

11. If a player takes one of his opponent's men with one of his own that cannot take it without making a false move, his adver sary can compel him to take it with any piece or pawn, if it is en prise, or compel him to move his own man which he has touched.

12. If a player takes one of his own men with another of his own, his opponent can compel him to move either.

13. If a player makes a false move, by playing a piece or pawn in an illegal manner, his opponent may compel him-Ist, to let the move stand good; 2nd, to move the touched piece or pawn correctly; 3rd, to replace the touched man and move his King.

14. If a player plays out of his turn, his adversary may let the moves remain, or compel him to retract the second.

15. When a pawn is moved two squares, and an adverse pawn could have taken it, had it been moved one square only, it may be taken en passant by the adverse pawn. A piece cannot take en passant.

16. A player cannot castle in the following cases:

1. If the King or Rook have been removed.

2. If the King is in check.

3. If there is any piece between King and Rook.

4. If the King has to pass over a square attacked by one of the adversary's

pieces or pawns.

A player castling in violation of these laws, his opponent may either compel him to move the King or the Rook, or let the

move remain.

17. If a player move a piece or pawn, thereby placing his King into check, he must replace the piece or pawn and move his King, but if the King cannot be legally moved, no penalty can be inflicted.

18. If a player attacks the adverse King

without saying "check," his opponent is not obliged to attend to it; but if on his next move he says "check," each player must retract his last move, and the player whose King is in check must remove it.

19. If the King has been in check for several moves, and the moves subsequent to the check cannot be ascertained, the player whose King is in check must retract his last move and obviate the check.

20. If a player says "check," without giving it, and his opponent moves his King or any piece or pawn in consequence, he may retract such move; but if the former player has made a move since, the game must proceed.

21. A pawn reaching the eighth square must be at once exchanged for any piece the player may think fit. He may make one or more Queens, three or more Rooks, Knights, &c.

22. If, at the end of a game, a player has power enough to checkmate his opponent, but does not know how to do it, his adversary may give notice that if checkmate be not effected in fifty moves, from the time he gives the notice, the game will be drawn.

23. A player, undertaking to checkmate with any particular piece or pawn, or on a particular square, is not restricted to any number of moves.

24. A stalemate is a drawn game. 25. If a player makes a false move, his opponent must notice it before touching any of his men, or he forfeits the right of inflicting any penalty.

26. If any dispute should arise on any case not provided for by the laws, or regarding the interpretation or applicability of any law, the players must refer the point to some disinterested by-stander, or submit it to some good authority, whose decision must be considered conclusive.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR INDIT

ING LETTERS ON BUSINESS. A merchant's or tradesman's letter should be plain, concise, and to the purpose; free from stiff or studied expressions, always pertinent, and written in such words or

4

terms as carry with them a distinct meaning; so that the person to whom it is sent cannot have the least hesitation or doubt about the signification of any word or part of it, or mistake any order in the letter.

All orders, commissions, and material circumstances of trade, must be plainly and particularly mentioned, and nothing should be presumed as being understood or implied, or expressed in obscure and ambiguous terms.

Be as punctual as possible in answering all letters you receive that require answering; and notice each article and circumstance distinctly and separately in your reply.

The style used for mercantile letters, as well as for those written on all ordinary occasions, should be neat, significant, and as concise as the nature of the subject will admit, like that of conversation; that is, write to your correspondent as you would talk to him, and without any formal or uncommon phrase.

Be frank and affable without impertinence; and always express yourself in a complaisant and obliging manner, without bombast or flattery.

Keep a copy of all your letters, in a letter-book, as you may want to refer to them on future occasions; and place the name and date upon the back of those letters which you receive from your corresthey may be of great use, in case of any pondents, and preserve them carefully: as misconception or dispute.

If any difference or misunderstanding should take place, on affairs of business, state your opinion clearly and freely on the subject, but never have recourse to acrimonious expressions, as they tend only to inflame the passions, and prevent an adjust

ment.

If you and your correspondent cannot settle the affair between yourselves, you had better be the first to propose an arbitration; for disputes are generally terminated with more equity, and certainly in a shorter time, and at much less expense, by this method than by "the glorious uncertainty of the law."