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to rest. A great babbling and twittering comes from groves of holly and hawthorn, as if the sparrows were scrambling for perches. They retire earlier than the missel-thrush, which is still whistling his loud, strong song from the topmost branch of a leafless tree, while blackbirds are scolding one another in the hawthorn cover. Sometimes one will fly out, looking a little confused and terrified in the dusk. The bullfinch often chooses a bush quite close to the road, and, getting to the very centre, sticks out his feathers as a protection against the cold, and with his head under his wing makes a strange little huddled-up mass, his bright colors hardly showing in the dim light. But let me walk ever so softly past the old pollards after dark, and the lightsleeping inmates-wrens and tits, I fancy-though it is always too late to identify them, fly out, often into my very face, the warm soft feathers making no unpleasant impact against the skin. A deep hush steals over the trees at last, the chirruping voices are no longer heard, and only the rustling of dead leaves and the scamper of small feet tell that the life of night is awake -that the stoat, the weasel, and the rat are busy and coursing after their victims. Finally, the king of the Forest trees is a pollard, a grand oak twentytwo feet in circumference, standing beside Fairmead Lodge.

But, after all has been said, the most beautiful woodland scenery is at High Beech and Monk Wood, where the trees are of natural growth. They were seen at their best in the autumn of 1897, when the season made one of those slow and stately revolutions that exhibit every gradation of color: first the deep green of summer, with the sunlight only breaking through in spots and bars next, a glowing bronze, with red leaves fluttering softly down to the earth, kept bare by the shallow roots of the trees; finally, stripped boughs rising from a russet carpet, and the winter sun like a blazing fire seen through the branches. It is pleasant to watch buds expanding and breaking into leaf, equally pleasant to rest in a shady grove during summer, or to note the changing colors of autumn; but in winter alone is it possible to see the full beauty

of forest trees, the noble stem or central pillar, the bold fine limbs flung heavenward, the exquisite tracery made by the branching summit against the sky.

Even those who do not subscribe to this austere doctrine, who love color and ornament, blossoms and green leaves, and the sparkle of sunshine, more than form, will find it interesting to sit on some old tree-trunk under the beeches late in autumn. The mast tempts the shyest woodlanders. Little squirrels, with their tails over their heads, clamber down the trunks, and, after assuring themselves there is no danger, begin turning the leaves over for nuts. They have quite a large vocabulary, a curious sound between a low squeal and a cough, that they give with a jerk of the body when they eat and also as they leap about on the trees; a bark or wough when suddenly alarmed; a shrill chatter, almost as sharp and clear as a bird's, when conversing among themselves. At one time they were nearly extirpated, but are very plentiful now in the forest.

Not far off a gorgeous cock pheasant steals from an adjacent corner of withering fern and has a feast to himself. This bird, I think, exists in the right numbers. His bed-going croak is one of the familiar sounds of dusk, yet one never finds more than two in company, and only a few broods are reared annually. More would but tempt the poacher, and there are enough to lend variety to the bird-life. The partridge, of course, loves the ploughed field more than the grove, but a few come to the open spaces and may occasionally be seen even in the deepest part of the forest.

Another bird that comes for mast is the jay, of which the forest breeds myriads. Its discordant croak seems to belong to the nature of the place, like the tinkle of cow-bells and the eternal chatter of tits. The magpie, on the other hand, which has similar habits and lives on practically the same food, is seldom to be seen. Six or seven years ago there were several walks on which one was almost certain to see a magpie or two; the appearance of one now has come to be a very great rarity indeed. Mr. E. N. Buxton says that

two broods were reared last year on the outskirts of the forest, but they are never visible within. Every lover of birds must regret this. The magpie is more beautiful in form and much more graceful in flight than the ill-balanced, awkward-flying jay. One reason for its disappearance may be that the magpie builds a more conspicuous and easily robbed nest than the jay, which prefers the impenetrable thicket for its home. But, on the other hand, it is difficult to say why one species thrives and another dwindles. On the forest ponds, for instance, waterhens and ducks are in tremendous force. They are found wherever there is water; but the stronghold of the former is Highams Lake, where it is pretty to watch them in the breeding season, when the pond is white with water-lilies. The long-legged mothers look quite comical as they straggle over the broad green floating leaves, picking the insects and followed by their dusky chicks. But the bolder and greedier ducks prefer Connaught Water, where they follow the boats and gobble up the crumbled bread and biscuit freely tossed to them by the occupants. They are as tame as barn-door fowls here, though as difficult to shoot as ever when once they cross the boundary of the forest, and even when they return from their wanderings at dusk fly round and round as suspiciously as if they dreaded a decoy or a punt gun. It seems very remarkable that the coot should be rapidly diminishing as these increase in numbers. The same thing has happened in waters that used to be familiar to me as a boy. At that time the "bell-pot" was as familiar as the waterhen, and, though it can scarcely be said to have become absolutely rare, it has ceased to be common. Yet it is not shot or persecuted in any way, the sedge-margined water is less frequented than it used to be, and there seems to be no good reason why the coot should not increase and multiply.

While on this subject I may say that birds of prey take little advantage of the asylum or sanctuary offered them in Epping Forest. There are a few kestrels and sparrowhawks, but no great number, and the rest of the falconidæ only occur as rare visitors. Wood-owls are occasionally seen and

heard, but they are not in anything like the number that might have been expected. Yet the small creatures on which they feed-rats, mice, moles, shrews, voles, insects, and small birds are in abundant numbers, especially the mole, which may be seen working any day. One afternoon I witnessed a fierce battle between two of them. Like Falstaff, they "fought a good hour by Shewsbury clock," worrying at one another's throats like bull-dogs. They rather justified the expression as blind as a mole," for when they got "out of grips" each seemed to find a difficulty in rediscovering its antagonist. It is said that there are longeared owls in the Forest, but I have not come across one, and the barn-owl is very rare. They are infrequently seen, and a close search is never required where owls are in large numbers, for they will venture out by daylight and get themselves mobbed by small birds who make a racket that soon announces what has happened.

66

Thanks again to the many-creviced pollard one night loving creature, the little bat, is nearly as common and plentiful as the sparrow. I saw one hunting about on the evening of January 13 of this year-a very early date and a testimony to the mildness of the winter. When searching rotten treetrunks for caterpillars boys often get whole families crowded up in a corner. They are not very difficult to tame.

I have not left much space for the quadrupeds. Undoubtedly the finest beasts of the Forest are the fallow aud roe deer; it is a question whether they are not too numerous for the quantity of food. They used to be so extremely wild that many frequenters of the Forest were sceptical of their existence; but quite recently they have become as tame as sheep, and will scarcely run a dozen vards when startled. Moreover, they have spread to parts where they were scarcely ever seen before. numbering from three or four to eighteen. or twenty is to be met with close to Chingford station, in the cover adjoining the "Woodman." They did not use to venture south of High Beech. I am afraid that what has tamed them is hunger. Be it remembered, the commoners' rights are exercised to the full.

A herd

be transported at the cost of a few coppers, and where he can refresh himself with pure air and exercise and with the sights and sounds of nature. That he thoroughly appreciates the advantage is best proved by the following figures, kindly supplied to the writer by the Secretary of the Great Eastern RailLast year (1897) the number of passengers conveyed to the various stations on Epping Forest on the four holidays were as follows: Easter Monday (April 19), 42,864; Whit Monday (June 7), 51,356; Jubilee Day (June 22), 37,300; August Bank Holiday (August 2), 54,395.

The total, it will be observed, is, in round numbers, 186,000. But this does not represent the whole of the visitors. Any one stationing himself on the beautiful road that runs (with forest on either side) from Whipp's Cross to Woodford will see a strange procession of vehicles streaming from town in the morning and back at night; carts, gigs, delivery vans, omnibuses, coaches, donkey carts, every kind or variety of conveyance that may be owned or hired; they are all crowded with men, women, and children. The holiday-makers do not "take their pleasures sadly;" on the contrary, they adopt every known device for quickening gayety. They sing those merry songs that delight the music-hall audiences of Poplar and Whitechapel; whoever has a concertina or a clarionet or any other wind instrument brings it and blows-music, I was going to write, but forbear. The Bank Holiday crowd is not calculated to please fastidious eyes or ears, yet no one who thinks of the real change and health-giving en joyment the occasion offers those who have little of either in their lives, will do more than smile at the odd forms in which pleasure is expressed. There is little that is really wrong in the conduct of the excursionists. At the end of the day "the last load whoam" may consist of a few excursionists not quite so well-behaved and sober as they were at starting, but every competent observer will admit that the tendency of the holiday-makers is to go in less every succeeding year for drink and rowdyism, and more for innocent amusement. In fact, if all things be taken into con

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sideration their usual surroundings, the change and relaxation, the stimulation of company, and the temptations on the way-it must be admitted that their behavior is very good indeed.

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All the same, they have their own way of "taking the pleasure of the country.' There are high fliers and merry-go-rounds, and steam bicycles running to the music of steam hurdygurdies, and donkeys and ponies and - koker-nut" shies - which delight them more than green thicket or bosky glade. A good thing, too! If fifty thousand East-enders took to investigating the woodland recesses, what a time the deer would have of it! In point of fact, one may walk the more secluded and beautiful parts of the forest without seeing any sign of the crowd, with nothing to prove its presence except its long withdrawing roar" and the noise of musical instruments, which is by no means disagreeable when softened and mellowed by distance. And, after all, the main point is being achieved, since the merry-makers, whether they rollick on a donkey's back or are tossed to the tree-tops in what Scotch children call "shuggyboats," are drawing in a supply of the wholesome woodland air, "worth sixpence a pint," as somebody remarked. of Lord Tennyson's downs. I rather like to walk in the Forest at the close of such a day, especially if it be in May or June. The silver moon is not so bright as to disclose the empty bottles and sandwich-papers strewed by the visitors. Nightingales that one expected to have been terrified from their haunts flute their rich deep songs from bushes close to the caravan and merrygo-round, and the Forest resumes its peace and calm, just as if there had been no human disturbers. From a distance do, indeed, come many incongruous sounds-drunken human voices, concertinas out of tune, cornets tipsily blown; but they only seem to remind us that ugliness and discord and squalor, as well as beauty and passion, harmonize into life, which includes the stars as well as the barrel-organ, the nightingale as well as the coster and his "donah."

After all, however, there are only three Bank Holidays in the year (Christ

now

mas does not count much in the Forseems quite incompatible with her est), and two are often wet. On every dumpy body and short legs. Not infine day from June to September a pri- frequently, too, Reynard chooses one vate trip of some kind arrives: for his siesta, and sleeps heedless of the the beanfeast of a factory or the "wayz passers-by, unless some enterprising goose" of "a chapel'-a printers' chap- schoolboy should climb up and disturb el, I mean; most frequently of all a him. The pollard, too, is a kind of band of school-children. It would be natural flowerpot. By the rains of difficult to imagine a more suitable winter the wood in course of time is place for such excursions; here is wa- rotted into a most fertile mould; you ter to row in, wide spaces for games can pour it out of the more aged when and pastime, shady groves for summer they are felled. Seeds of creeper and picnics, and woodland paths on which bush and fern, if carried to it by winds to ramble. There are very few country or birds, germinate freely; trailing children who enjoy equal advantages. boughs and green plants therefore draw Epping Forest is an estate of consider their sustenance from the crumbling able size, containing as it does 5,500 trunk. Close to High Beech is one acres of mixed open and woodland. It such stump twelve or fourteen feet has been the aim of those who manage high, and itself long dead, and gray, it to reproduce as far as possible the and mossy. Out of the crown, as from former wild conditions. At the time a cup, grows a handsome holly bush, when Mr. Shaw Lefevre and others considerably larger than an ordinary took the matter in hand it was being Christmas-tree. No doubt, too, these utterly destroyed. The right of lop- rotting pollards are favorable to insect ping had been so vigorously exercised life. One winter day I saw a couple of that, except in one or two groves, every workmen take no fewer than sixteen of tree had been decapitated. Some peo- the large and handsome caterpillars of ple profess to discover a sort of beauty the goat-moth from an old willow they in the distorted shapes assumed by the were breaking up. They were offering pollards-especially the hornbeams to sell them at fourpence apiece, but after this treatment, but a natural taste did not seem aware that already some will scarcely admit it. A typical For- of the boy-collectors had been doing a est pollard is a gnarled and empty shell, little breaking-up on their own acwith a crown full of mouldering dust, count, and were amply supplied with and perhaps a honeysuckle or a briar specimens. Indeed, those youths know growing out of it with long, trailing well how rich the woodland is in moth vines, while generally a draping of ivy and butterfly, and may be seen on sumhalf conceals the trunk. Give Nature mer holidays roaming far and near time, and she will make anything pic- armed with net and poison-bottle. As turesque; but a natural tree is still the it happens, Mr. Cole, curator of the remore beautiful, whether shooting up cently established museum at Chingtall and straight among its Forest com- ford, is a keen entomologist, and has panions, or stretching out giant limbs got together an admirable and wellin the solitude of a hedgerow. Yet mounted collection, so that the young again Nature finds many uses even for student is greatly helped to name and the pollards. In their chinks and crev- identify his specimens. In time perices myriads of the great and blue tits haps we shall see an equally good rep-as numerous here as sparrows in the resentation of the birds, nests, eggs, streets of London--find nesting places. reptiles, beasts, and plants of the ForThe squirrels, if surprised in their fre- est, as a well-equipped museum affords quent quests on the ground, pop into the most effective help to the study of the larger holes, and wait till the coast natural history. is clear and they can scramble back to the higher trees, where alone they are safe. In the crowns many wild duck nest; during the breeding season one often sees the brown mother racing away from her nest at a speed that

Another service performed by the pollards is that of affording sleepingplaces to the birds. To come down through the wood just as the darkness of a winter night is gathering is the best time for watching them all retire

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to rest. A great babbling and twittering comes from groves of holly and hawthorn, as if the sparrows were scrambling for perches. They retire earlier than the missel-thrush, which is still whistling his loud, strong song from the topmost branch of a leafless tree, while blackbirds are scolding one another in the hawthorn cover. Sometimes one will fly out, looking a little confused and terrified in the dusk. The bullfinch often chooses a bush quite close to the road, and, getting to the very centre, sticks out his feathers as a protection against the cold, and with his head under his wing makes a strange little huddled-up mass, his bright colors hardly showing in the dim light. But let me walk ever so softly past the old pollards after dark, and the lightsleeping inmates-wrens and tits, I fancy-though it is always too late to identify them, fly out, often into my very face, the warm soft feathers making no unpleasant impact against the skin. A deep hush steals over the trees at last, the chirruping voices are no longer heard, and only the rustling of dead leaves and the scamper of small feet tell that the life of night is awake -that the stoat, the weasel, and the rat are busy and coursing after their vicFinally, the king of the Forest trees is a pollard, a grand oak twentytwo feet in circumference, standing beside Fairmead Lodge.

But, after all has been said, the most beautiful woodland scenery is at High Beech and Monk Wood, where the trees are of natural growth. They were seen at their best in the autumn of 1897, when the season made one of those slow and stately revolutions that exhibit every gradation of color: first the deep green of summer, with the sunlight only breaking through in spots and bars; next, a glowing bronze, with red leaves fluttering softly down to the earth, kept bare by the shallow roots of the trees; finally, stripped boughs rising from a russet carpet, and the winter sun like a blazing fire seen through the branches. It is pleasant to watch buds expanding and breaking into leaf, equally pleasant to rest in a shady grove during summer, or to note the changing colors of autumn; but in winter alone is it possible to see the full beauty

of forest trees, the noble stem or central pillar, the bold fine limbs flung heavenward, the exquisite tracery made by the branching summit against the sky.

Even those who do not subscribe to this austere doctrine, who love color and ornament, blossoms and green leaves, and the sparkle of sunshine, more than form, will find it interesting to sit on some old tree-trunk under the beeches late in autumn. The mast tempts the shyest woodlanders. Little squirrels, with their tails over their heads, clamber down the trunks, and, after assuring themselves there is no danger, begin turning the leaves over for nuts. They have quite a large vocabulary, a curious sound between a low squeal and a cough, that they give with a jerk of the body when they eat and also as they leap about on the trees; a bark or wough when suddenly alarmed; a shrill chatter, almost as sharp and clear as a bird's, when conversing among themselves. At one time they were nearly extirpated, but are very plentiful now in the forest.

Not far off a gorgeous cock pheasant steals from an adjacent corner of withering fern and has a feast to himself. This bird, I think, exists in the right numbers. His bed-going croak is one of the familiar sounds of dusk, yet one never finds more than two in company, and only a few broods are reared annually. More would but tempt the poacher, and there are enough to lend variety to the bird-life. The partridge, of course, loves the ploughed field more than the grove, but a few come to the open spaces and may occasionally be seen even in the deepest part of the forest.

Another bird that comes for mast is the jay, of which the forest breeds myriads. Its discordant croak seems to belong to the nature of the place, like the tinkle of cow-bells and the eternal chatter of tits. The magpie, on the other hand, which has similar habits and lives on practically the same food, is seldom to be seen. Six or seven years ago there were several walks on which one was almost certain to see a magpie or two; the appearance of one now has come to be a very great rarity indeed. Mr. E. N. Buxton says that

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