ancle, and have a feparate place
made for the great toe to enter, and
adapted to the form of the hoe.

The fhoes, or to fpeak more pro-
perly, flippers, of the Japanese, are
the moft habby and indifferent part
of their drefs, and are yet in equal
ufe with the high and the low, the
rich and the poor. They are made
of rice-straw woven, but fometimes
for people of diftinction of fine flips
of ratan. The fhoe conlitts of a
fole, without upper leather or hind
piece: forwards it is crofled by a
trap, of the thickness of one's fin-
ger, which is lined with linen; from
the tip of the fhoe to this rap,
a cylindrical ftring is carried, which
paffes between the great and fecond
coe, and keeps the thoe faft on the
foot. As thefe fhoes have no hind
piece, they make a noife when peo-
ple walk in them, like flippers. When
the Japanese travel, their fhoes are
furnished with three ftrings made of
twisted straw, with which they are
tied to the legs and feet, to prevent
them from falling off, Some people
carry one or more pair of fhoes,
with them on their journeys, in or-
der to put on new, when the old ones
are worn out. When it rains or the
roads are are very dirty, these shoes
are foon wetted through, and one
Continually fees a great number of
worn out shoes lying on the roads,
efpecially near the brooks, where
travellers have changed
fhoes after washing their feet. In-
their
ftead of thefe, in rainy or dirty wea-
ther, they wear high wooden clogs,
which underneath are hollowed out
in the middle, and at top have a
band acrofs like a stirrup, and a
ftring for the great toe; fo that they
can walk without foiling their feet.
Some of them have their ftraw fhoes
fastened to these wooden clogs. The
Japanese never enter their houfes
with their fhoes on; but leave them
in the entry, or place them on the
bench near the door, and thus are
always bare-footed in their houfes,

fo as not to dirty their neat mats, During the time that the Dutch live under an obligation of paying vi at Japan, when they are fometimes their own rooms at the factory being fits at the houfes of the Japanese, likewife covered with mats of this kind, they wear, instead of the usual foes, red, green, or black flippers, which, on entering the house, they pull off; however, they have ftockstuff, with buckles in them, which ings on, and floes made of cotton be washed whenever they are dirty; fhoes are made at Japan, and can order to avoid washing them. fome have them of black fattia, in

their hair is as peculiar to them,
This people's mode of dreffing
and at the fame time as general
amongst them, as their use of the
night-gowns. The men fhave the
whole of their head from the fore-
and what is left near the temples and
head down to the nape of the neck,
up, and tied at the top of the head
in the neck is well greased, turned
with feveral rounds of white ftring,
made of paper. The end of the hair,
that remains above the tie, is cut off
to about the length of one's finger,
and after being well-ftiffened with
oil, bent in fuch a manner, that
the tip is brought to ftand against
the crown of the head, in which
fituation it is kept merely by the
ftring above-mentioned. This coef-
head shaved every day, that the
fure is ftri&ly attended to, and the
flumps of the growing hair may not
disfigure their bald pates. Pricfts
and phyficians, and young men that
maturity, are the only perfons that
have not yet attained the age of
are exempted in this refpect. The
priefs and phyficians have their
minated from all others.
heads all over, and are thus difcri-
again keep all their hair on, till fuch
Boys
time as the beard begins to make its
appearance.

hair cut off except wonen that are
Of the fair fex, none have their
parted

Modes of Salutation, &c.

691

are made of thick oiled paper, and
are worn by the fuperior attendants
in the fuite of princes, and of other
travellers; and my fellow travellers
and myself, during our journey to
court, were obliged to make a pre-
fent to our attendants of fome of
these cloaks, when we paffed by the
place where they were manufac-

tured.

from their husbands. I had ortunity of feeing fuch a one was at Jeddo, who traverfed ntry much, and made, with d pate, a droll and fingular ance. Otherwife, the hair, efmeared, and made fmooth land mucilaginous fubftances, up close to the head on all and this either quite in a neat mple manner, or elfe ftanding the fides in the form of wings. this the ends are faftened to, round a knob, at the crown of ad. Single women ad fervant are frequently diftinguished the married by thefe wings. efore this knot a broad comb is which the poorer fort of peowear of lacquered wood, and Inftead of a handkerchief, I atthat are in better circumstances ortoife-fhell. Befides these the ways faw them ufe thin and foft ch wear feveral long ornaments, writing paper, which they conftanıe of tortoife fhell, ftuck throughly carried about them for this pure <not, as alfo a few flowers, which inftead of pearls and diamonds, conftitute the whole of their de. tions. Vanity has not yet taken among them to that degree, as ■duce them to wear rings or other aments in their ears.

The Japanele always have their coat of arms put on their cloaks, particularly on their long and short night-gowns, and that either on their arms or between their fhoulders, with a view to prevent their being stolen, which in a country where people's cloaths are fo much alike in point of materials, form, and tize, might cafily happen.

Chefe people never cover their ds either with hats or caps, to end them against the cold or the ching heat of the fun, except on neys, when they wear a conihat, made of a fpecies grafs

had with fripts obferved

pole, and which they alfo ufed før
wiping their mouths and fingers,
as 1 kewife for wiping off the fweat
from their bodies under the arme
pits.

MODES of SALUTATION, &c.

(From Curiofities of Literature.)

HE materials of this, and this

T following article, are furnished

h as these alfo were worn by by the philofophical compiler of
ermen. Some few travelling wo-L' Efprit des Ufages et des Cou-
n wore caps in the form of a ter-
e, which were interwoven with
d. Otherwife the parafol is what
ey ufe to fhelter them against the
in or the rage of the fun,

Befides the above-mentioned awers, fparter-dashes, and hat, hich none but travellers wear, they e generally provided on journeys ith a cloak, efpecially fuch as trael on foot or on horseback. These oaks are wide and fhort, and of the me fhape as th night gowns. They

tumes.' He informs us that he has
pruned a great part of his collection;
yet fuch is the multiplicity ftill re-
maining, that I fall only felect
those which interest by their fingu-
larity.

When men (writes our compiler) falute each other in an amicable manner, it fignifies little whether they move a particular part of the body, or practife a particular ce emony. In thefe actions there must exift, different customs. Every na4 T 2

tion

tion imagines it employs the moftvea-
fonable ones; but all are equally
fimple, and none are to be treated as
ridiculous.

This infinite number of ceremonies
may be reduced to two kinds; to
reverences or falutations; and to
the touch of fome part of the human
body. To bend and proftrate one-
felf to exprefs fentiments of refpect,
appears to be a natural motion; for
terrified perfons throw themselves
on the earth when they adore invi-
fible beings. The affectionate touch
of the perfon they falute as an ex-
preffion of tendernefs."

As nations decline from their ancient fimplicity, much farce and grimace are introduced. Superstition, the manners of a people, and their fituation, influence the modes of falutation; as may be obferved from the inftances we collect.

Modes of falutation have fometimes very different characters, and it is no uninterefting fpeculation to examine their fhades. Many difplay a refinement of delicacy, while others are remarkable for their fimplicity, or for their fenfibility. In general, however, they are frequently the fame in the infancy of nations, and in more polifhed focieties. Refpect, humility, fear, and eftcem, are expreffed much in a fimilar manner, for these are the natural confequences of the organization of the body.

Thefe demonftrations become in time, only empty civilities, which fignify nothing; we fhall notice what they were originally, without reflecting on what they are.

The first nations have no peculiar modes of falutation; they know no reverences, or other compliments, or they defpife and difdain them, The Greenlanders laugh, when they fee an European uncover his head, and bend his body before him whom he calls his fuperior,

they falure, and with it they gendy rub their face. The Laplanders ap ply their nofe ftrongly against that fays, that at new Guinea they are of the perfon they falute. Dampie paffed for fymbols of friendship and atisfied in placing on their heads the leaves of trees, which have ever falute. peace. This is at least a picturesque

modious and painful; it requires
great practice to enable a man to be
Other falutations are very incom-
polite in an ifland fituated in the
ftreights of the Sound. Houtman
foot, which they paffed gently over
tells us, they faluted him in this
odd way:
They aifed his left
Philippines bend their body very
the right leg, and from thence over
his face.'
low, in placing their hands on their
The inhabitants of the
bent..
cheeks, and raifing at the fame time
one foot in the air with their knee

another, and ties it about his own
waift, fo that he leaves his friend
An Ethiopian takes the robe of
half naked. This custom of un-
dreffing on thefe occafions takes
other forms; fometimes men place
themfelves naked before the perfon
whom they falute it is to the
their humility, and that they are
unworthy of appearing in his pre-
fir Jofeph Banks, when he received
fence. This was practifed before
the vifit of two female Otaheiteans.
did not appear immodeft in the eyes
Their innocent fimplicity no doubt
of the virtuofe.

a flipper; the people of Arracan,
Sometimes they only undress par
tially. The Japanese only take off
ftockings in the house.
their fandals in the treet, and their

fervile to uncover onefelf. The grandees of Spain claim the right of In the progress of time it appears appearing covered before the king, The Ilanders, near the Philip-fubjected to him as the rest of the napines, take the hand or foot of him tion; and (this writer obferves) we to fhew that they are not fo much

may

Modes of Salutation, &c.

693

may remark that the English do not | to be ridiculous. It arifes from their uncover their heads fo much as the other nations of Europe.

In a word, there is not a nation (obferves the humorous Montaigne) even to the people who when they falute turn their backs on their friends, but that can be justified in their customs.

It must be observed of the negroes, that they are lovers of ludicrous actions, and thus make all their ceremonies farcical. The greater part pull the fingers till they crack. Snelgrave gives an odd reprefentation of the embaffy which the king of Dahomy fent to him. The ceremonies of falutation confifted in the molt ridiculous contortions. When two negro monarchs vifit, they embrace in fnapping three times the middle finger.

Barbarous nations frequently imprint on their falutations the difpofitions of their character. When the inhabitants of Carmenia (fays Athenæus) would fhow a peculiar mark of esteem, they breathed a vein, and prefented for the beverage of their friend the blood as it iffued. The Franks tore hair from their head, and prefented it to the perfon they faluted. The flave cut his hair and offered it to his master.

national affection. They fubftitute artificial ceremonies for natural ac tions.

Their expreffions mean as little as their ceremonies. If a Chinese is afked how he finds himself in health? He anfwers, Very well; thanks to your abundant felicity. If they would tell a man that he looks well, they fay; Profperity is painted on your face; or, Your air announces your happiness.

If you render them any fervice, they fay, My thanks fhould be immortal. If you praise them, they anfwer, How fhall I dare to perfuade myfelf of what you fay of me? If you dine with them, they tell you at parting, We have not treated you with fufficient diftinction. The various titles they invent for each other, it would be impoflible to tranflate.

It is to be obferved, that all these anfwers are prefcribed by the Chinese ritual, or academy of compliments. There are determined the number of bows; the expreffions to be employed; the genuflexions; and the inclinations which are to be made to the right or left hand: the salutations of the master before the chair where the ftranger is to be The Chinese are fingularly af- feated, for he falutes it most profected in their perfonal civilities. foundly, and wipes the dust away They even calculate the number with the skirts of his robe; all thefe of their reverences. These are and other things are noticed, even their most remarkable postures. The to the filent geftures, by which you men move their hands in an affec- are entreated to enter the house. The tionate manner, while they are join- lower clafs of people are equally ed together, on the breast, and bow nice in thefe punctilios; and amtheir head a little. If they refpect baffadors pafs forty days in practiling. a perfon, they raife their hands them before they are enabled to apjoined, and then lower them to the pear at court. A tribunal of cereearth, in bending the body. If monies has been erected; and every two perfons meet after a long fepa-day very odd decrees are iffued, to ration, they both fall on their knees which the Chinese most religiously and bend the face to the earth, and fubmit. this ceremony they repeat two or three times. Surely we may differ here with the fentiment of Montaigne, and confefs this ceremony

The marks of honour are frequently arbitrary: to be feated, with us, is a mark of repofe and familiarity; to ftand up, that of re

Spec.

fpect. There are countries, how. 1 ever, in which princes will only be addreffed by perfons who are feated, and it is confidered as a favour to be permitted to stand in theirprefence. This cuftom prevails in defpotic countries; a defpot cannot fuffer, without difguft, the elevated figure of his fubjects; he is pleafed to bend their bodies with their genius; his prefence muft lay thofe who behold him proftrate on the earth: he defires no eagerness, no attention; he would only infpire terror.

ble to the felicities of a fine imagination, and to the enchanting ele-gancies of flyle, he raised himself, amongst his brother ecclefiaftics, enemies, who at length fo far prevailed, that it was declared by a fynod, that his performance was d ngerous to young perfons, and that if the author did not fupprefs it, he must refign his bishoprick. We are told he preferred his Romance to his bishoprick. Even fo late as in Racine's time, it was held a crime to peruse these unhallowed pages. He informs us, that the first effufions' of his muse were in confequence of ftudying that ancient romance, which

On the ORIGIN and PROGRESS of his mafter obferving him to devour

ROMANCES.

(From the fame.)

F the agreeable claffes of literature, the romance has always been held the moft delightful: it has been elegantly defined, as the offspring of fiction and love. Men of learning have amufed themselves with tracing the epocha of romances. In this refearch they have difplayed more ingenuity than reafon; and fome have fancied that it may have exifted as far back as the time of Aristotle; Dearchus, one of his difciples, having written feveral works of this amufing fpecies.

Let us however be fatisfied in deriving it from the Theagenes and Chariclea of Heliodorus, a bishop who lived in the fourth century; whofe work has been lately tranflated. This elegant prelate was the Grecian Fenelon. Beautiful a thefe compofitions are when the imagination of the writer is fufficiently ftored with accurate obfervations on human nature, in their birth, like many of the fine arts, they found in the zealots of rellgion, men who oppofed their progrefs. However Heliodorus may have delighted those who were not infenfi

with the keennefs of a famifhed man,
he fnatched it from his hands and
flung it in the fire. A fecond copy
experienced the fame fate. What
could Racine do?
third, and took the precaution of
He bought a
devouring it fecretly, till he got it
by heart; after which he offered it
to his mafter with a fmile, to
burn, if he chofe, like the others.

The decifion of these bigots was founded in their opinion of the immorality of fuch works. They alledged, that the writers paint too themfelves too forcibly to the paf warmly to the imagination, address fions, and in general, by the freedom of their reprefentations, hover little page, which we allot to our on the borders of indecency. The felves, does not admit of invalidating cenfures fo plaufible. Let it be fuf. ficient, however, to obferve, that thofe who condemned the liberties which these writers take with the felves with the loves of the wife Soimagination, could indulge themlomon, when fanctioned by the authority of the church.

origin of romances it is proper to Other opinions concerning the notice. The learned Fleury thinks that they were not known till the original, the hiftory of the dukes twelfth century, and gives as their

of