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they were evidently very clever, sensible dogs, and knew, as well as the footmen do, the proper moment to leave the church.

pidity in this, but the fact marks the limits and the intent of instinct in the bird; because no animal, no hawk, no carrion crow, nor any other enemy of hers, would thus change her eggs, and she was not provided by nature with a faculty to meet the philosophical ingenuity of man, endeavoring by these sleight-of-hand tricks to investigate the nature and extent of her faculties. The salmon can escape from its natural enemies, the porpoise and dogfish, but cannot distinguish the artificial fly from the natural one. But this shows no want of sagacity in the creature; for the deception of the artificial fly lies beyond the boundary of its natural and necessary instinct. Every animal in short is gifted with an instinct sufficient to preserve itself, Creator: but no animal can preserve itself from the superior power, the mechanical ingenuity, and inventive skill of man. Hence we conclude, that in the animal creation, in their wild and natural state, instinct acts by laws limited, and regular, and sufficient for the preservation of the creature or its species.

And now we must reluctantly leave this entertaining and instructive volume. How far the possession of such materials may enable us hereafter, by induction, to throw light on the mysterious nature of animal instinct, we cannot say probably it is altogether out of our reach, a spiritual world unknown to us, and unapproachable. There are strange and singular circumstances we should not have expected connected with it. Perhaps the minds of the animal creation are constructed on different principles from ours, and possessed of quite other means and springs of action. The most wonderful powers are given to the smallest in accordance with the tenure of life given by the insects. What is a dog, or an elephant, the most sagacious of the larger animals, compared to a bee, who has solved a problem in the highest mathematics without possessing a knowledge of the differential calculus, in order to enable her to deposit a drop of honey in a little case? Much difficulty has been thrown round this inquiry from the want of precise terms to express what we really intend But the case is somewhat altered, and the investo signify when we speak of the faculties of ani- tigation becomes more complicated, when animals mals. Instinct, intelligence, understanding, rea- are domesticated with man, taken under his proson, are all terms with difficulty admitting strict tection, and living in his presence, and artificial definition. When we say, on witnessing some re- habits are superinduced. They then are removed markable action of an animal, "Surely this is rea- from their natural sphere, and placed in circumson!" do we mean that same reason given to man, stances where some qualities are no longer wantwhich makes him a responsible being? If it is an-ed, and others are required. They first begin by swered, "the same in kind, but not in degree," seeing they are under a power superior to their then it is possible that some animal may appear who own they fear and they love; and through love has passed the limits of the ordinary faculties be- and fear they obey. Then they are naturally led stowed on his race, and, improving his reason, at to watch, to observe, to learn, and to imitate. last brings it to a comparison with man's; and Some instinctive qualities, as those of assiduity thus we should have a responsible monkey, or a and activity in procuring food, are no longer wantpoodle regulating his actions on the greatest-hap-ed, and are disused; while others are required, piness principle; an Ipswich coach-horse refusing and exercised, and improved. Their mental facul to travel on Sundays, or a Bengal tiger taking ties are enlarged and sharpened, by living with an during Lent to vegetable food. Or who is to de- intelligence, and obeying a power superior to their fine the exact limits beyond which animal reason own. The wild elephant, the wild dog, exhibit no is not to go? But if it is allowed that it is not the superior faculties whatever: these are developed same in kind, then it is not reason;" and then by domestication and education; but it must be rewe have to retrace our steps, and find some other marked, whenever an animal that has been tamed We may talk about animals possessing and instructed regains its liberty, its acquired facreason," but with what astonishment and alarm ulties all cease, and it relapses into its original nashould we not really behold such a phenomenon!ture; if not, "a monkey who had seen the world," Instinct certainly appears sometimes to advance be- when he escaped from confinement, might become yond its proper boundaries, and touch upon the line the Socrates of his native forests; introduce both of reason, but as surely it instantly recedes from it. the fine and useful arts among his brethren, and * Ανθρώπους δ' ἂν μόνους τῶν ἄλλων ἑώων ἔνομίζε Ζευς. have a school of young philosophers with cheekThere are, however, one or two circumstances we pouches and prehensile tails. Again, it must be should not lose sight of in this inquiry. The ques- observed that the acquired habits of an artificial tion being, When do animals appear to show some life become hereditary; but it requires that the quality different from, and superior to, instinct, and change should be transmitted through successive which seems to form a part of the animus ration- generations before the domestication is complete; alis? Now we think that this variation from the and then it is observed that an alteration of strucgeneral law is seldom shown in wild animals, with ture takes place, as in the goose, rabbit, &c. We the exception of the bee; nor is their instinct able should also observe that we are ignorant of the to expand and alter itself sufficiently to meet great degree to which the senses of animals are develand unexpected demands. Every animal is gifted oped. It is, notwithstanding various and careful with the power to endeavor to preserve itself from experiments, quite a doubtful and disputed quesits natural enemies-the antelope from the leopard, tion, whether the vulture detects its distant prey the swallow from the hawk, the flying-fish from by the sight or smell; in fact, the experiments are the dolphin. But when, instead of meeting their contradictory; but either the power of sight or that natural enemies, they are opposed to the superior of smell in the bird must be developed to an excess powers and complicated artifices of man, then their we can scarely appreciate. In the same manner instinct does not proportionably advance, as reason the wolf can at a distance scent the fallen beast; would do. We call a hen stupid because, taking and the seagulls assemble rapidly in multitudes out her eggs from her nest, we put some chalk from all quarters to a single small spot where the stones in their place, on which she remains brood-retreating tide has left their proper food. This ing in perfect satisfaction. Now there is no stu-may however be accounted for, by supposing an

term.

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extraordinarily developed nervous system, as supe- and unity, and liberal institutions and administrarior to ours, as a magnifying glass is to a common tion, it is inferred that the tariff-contest may mean, one. But how shall we explain actions still more on his side, a design of ultimate Italian independperplexing, and yet perfectly authenticated?—as ence. King Charles Albert, it is said, could that a cat should be put in a basket, and that bas-raise, in a fortnight, an excellent army of a hundred ket placed in a carriage, and it should go twelve thousand men, and the finances of Piedmont are or fifteen miles in the dark to its new home, and remarkably prosperous: all Italy would answer to yet in a few days should be found at its old abode. his call, and the Austrian domination be at once Here we should suppose neither eye nor ear, nei- crushed. But the Holy See would not confederate ther sight nor smell, nor any known sense or facul- with the house of Savoy against the Austrians, its ty, could supply the knowledge and power wanted. protectors: moreover, that house would dread the We know of no mental processes, nor corporeal too constitutional or republican tendencies of a revsense, analogous to what must be requisite for the olution. An eminent Sardinian refugee charges the execution of such a journey as this; or was it, Sardinian monarch with seeming to encourage the may we ask in reverence, a hand divine that for patriotic and liberal oracles, in order the better to this poor animal lighted a lamp within the recesses beguile the party of reform and peninsular nationof its nature pregnant with ethereal fire, and drew ality, which, ever and anon, effervesces and occafor it a meridian to guide it in safety in its dark sions a popular glow and monarchical panic. The and solitary way; and yet we confess yVOELY or independence and union of Italy is an ancient and τρόπον οἱ θεοὶ ἀυτόχειρες ετσι. But we must now beautiful theme ; genius of every kind has lavished stop; we are not satisfied with any theories or all inspiration and national instinct upon it in exspeculations that have been advanced on this sub-quisite prose and verse. We have never seen it ject, however ingenious or profound; and for our- near to be realized; more may be hoped, however, selves, we think it is safest and wisest, as it is than in the case of Poland. most accordant to our own feelings, to believe that The house on the Quay Napoleon which was we are surrounded and served by creatures the inhabited by Abelard and Eloisa has just been humble and willing ministers of our wants and demolished. Well if their whole memory could pleasures; who yet exist as a living world un- be so; it is strangely consecrated in French liteknown to us, and the nature of whose mental fac-rature. A sealed inscription, which I saw acciulties are to ours a mysterious, an awful, and an dentally some years ago, in the wall of the first impenetrable secret. Deo omnipotenti detur glo- story of the quaint old edifice, certifies their resi

ria!

dence.

In a discussion in the central congress of agriLEAGUE ANTI-CORN-LAW.-An association culture on the 25th instant, a member expatiated on formed to do a certain thing, and wonderful to re- the success with which the "masses" in the Unilate, actually doing it. The Anti-Corn-Law League ted States were "moralized" by labor, especially originated at a public dinner given to Dr. Bow- in the manufactories. Thousands of young opera ring, in 1838, at Manchester, and is a remarkable tives in the same fabrique, and morals yet as pure, instance of after-dinner enthusiasm having led to could be desired! Let us, he exclaimed, try to anything like sincerity and earnestness. As the employ, in this country, in a similar way, the hunleague progressed it took to publishing tracts dreds of thousands of children of indigent families, against the corn laws, and issued about one hun- to whom the state grants and seems to owe nothing, dred tons; but it is a well-known truth that tracts but who have claims on our charity and our prunever make a subject attractive. The arguments dence. Mix your myriads of foundlings with them are believed to have been weighty, and put the indiscriminately, and you will doubly preserve and question on a broad scale, for they succeeded in moralize the latter. The stain of the birth will be putting it on those very broad scales that are gen-effaced in the common existence and training; an erally used by the cheesemongers. The other excellent scheme. You may find, in the late demeasures of the Anti-Corn-Law League were, how-bates in the house of commons, very honorable ever, taken with so much judgment, and pursued mention of the discipline and the moral and intelwith so much energy, that the government, placed in power for the purpose of protecting the corn laws, became so completely converted as to propose and carry their abolition.-Punch.

lectual superiority of the operatives of Lowell. In the British factory question stress is laid there on the number of hours of labor in the week-greater, it is observed, than in England; but the feeding, LONDON'S SAFETY.-Napoleon, when he con- tive, give faculty for more labor with much less lodging-the whole being of the American operaquered Italy, carried away all the statues. London, in the event of an invasion, is at all events than those of any European. Awful testimony was fatigue or disadvantage, of whatever description, protected from a similar spoliation, for all its stat-borne in the house to the effects of the usual labor ues are so bad that not the greatest barbarian in Great Britain on both adults and children. Still, would do us the friendly turn to carry away one said Sir James Graham, "if we restrict the hours, of them.-Punch.

CORRESPONDENCE.

WE copy from Mr. Walsh's letter of 29th May a few paragraphs which could not be crowded into the last number.

A war of tariffs has been commenced between the government of Sardinia and the Austrian in Italy. As the King of Sardinia has encouraged eloquent publications in favor of Italian nationality

we risk all national supremacy and vitality; then we would be bound, in justice to the workmen, to adopt a minimum of wages; and, if they did that, the consequence would be that capital would take unto itself wings, and would be invested abroad, where wages were lower and there was no such legislative interference. The commencement of that career would be the first step towards the destruction of our manufacturing prosperity, and with the downfall of our manufacturing prosperity we might look for the loss of our position amongst the nations of the earth. [Hear, hear.]"

LITTELL'S LIVING AGE.-No. 116.-1 AUGUST, 1846.

far more perfectly than it now exists in the lands whence they brought it. Besides all this, Smyrna is, as it were, the focus of the numerous branches of missionary societies in the East, and it is consequently inhabited by a vast number of Americans. It was my favorite plan, that we should endeavor to visit all the places of worship to which we could gain access in the city; but we were on our way to the Black Sea, and the steamer only remained four-and-twenty hours at Smyrna, which was undoubtedly too short a stay for so interesting a place, and rendered my project scarcely feasible.

From Chambers' Journal. FOUR-AND-TWENTY HOURS AT SMYRNA.* It must be almost impossible for those who have never had an opportunity of visiting eastern countries, or experiencing a greater degree of summer heat than our own temperate climate can produce, to form any idea of the marvellous brilliancy of those striking landscapes when the noonday sun is pouring down his full splendor upon them. It is but seldom, indeed, that persons habitually resident in those regions ever witness such a sight. There are few admirers of nature sufficiently enthusiastic We had scarcely anchored, when the fact that to brave a coup de soleil, or a brain fever, one or we had passed, within the last twelve hours, from other of which fatal consequences are too often the one quarter of the globe to another, was brought result of incautious exposure. Yet although it was with full conviction on our minds by the arrival of on one of the most sultry days in the month of sundry most Asiatic-looking figures, whose manMay that we landed at Smyrna, I think any one ners and appearance afforded a striking contrast to would have risked a good deal to have witnessed the Greeks of the classical island of Scio, which the scene which gradually opened upon us as we was the last place we had touched at. Although approached that interesting spot. Sky, earth, and nothing could be more picturesque than these finesea, all were bathed in one flood of light; and the looking, majestic men, with their black eyes, long full blaze of an unclouded sun at once illuminated beards, and dark olive complexions, they were and embellished the beautiful Asiatic shore and the merely "valets de place" come to offer their serpicturesque city which lay before us. Only one vices; and it seemed very strange to hear them, dark spot, which even that flaming orb could not in their flowing garments and heavy turbans, talkbrighten, gave effect to the landscape; and this ing French, English, and Italian with the greatest was the grove of sombre cypress-trees which, ease. The process of going on shore appeared to spreading over the side of the hill almost to the us one of considerable difficulty; for the only sea-shore, marked out the Moslem cemetery. means of transporting ourselves and our luggage There are few, if any, of the eastern cities more was in boats, so extremely small and narrow, that deeply interesting than Smyrna; the very name we fancied the weight of one person would be must at once suggest its principal claim for a more sufficient to capsize them; but as there was no than ordinary share of attention; and in fact it is alternative, we consented to embark in a slender only in reference to it, as one of the seven churches little caïque, which, though it danced on the of Asia, that the more prominent features of its pres- waves as if it had been made of India-rubber, cerent condition become so remarkable. From its tainly brought us safely to land. We had so many central position as well as from its commercial in- friends and near connexions in Smyrna, that we fluence, it is the resort of persons of every coun- scarcely felt ourselves in a strange country, as we try and denomination, besides being the resting- walked, accompanied by them, to the house of Madplace of travellers to many different quarters; and, ame W- whose kind hospitality was to save us in consequence of this, I believe there is no place from the miseries of a night in a soi-disant Eurowhere so many different religions are not only tol-pean hotel. The streets, as in all eastern towns, erated, but firmly established and flourishing, in perfect harmony with each other. Mohammedanism is of course the religion of the country, but its various sects are here more than usually distinct. Judaism greatly prevails-the Hebrew population being numerous, and the members of the Armenian church scarcely less so. Then Street of Roses," scarcely finding time to ask there is the Gueber, or fire-worshipper, whose adoration of the sun is at least less astonishing here than it would be in England: the Greek; the Roman Catholic; the Nestorian; and many others, which I have neither time nor space to enumerate; besides a considerable number of Protestants from all parts of the globe. There are several European families which have become naturalized at Smyrna; and notwithstanding the lapse The house of Madame W-, to which we of a generation or so, they cling with the greatest were going, was in the Quartier Franc, and, like tenacity to the manners and customs of their coun- most other good houses in that part of the town, tries, and in many instances have preserved the was surrounded by a large court, filled with trees, purity of their faith, both in doctrine and ritual, the entrance to which was by a stone passage, so * We are indebted for this paper to the same lady who long and wide, that we fancied ourselves still in lately graced our pages with descriptions of the Slave the street, until the ponderous gate was closed Market of Constantinople and the Harem of Eiredeen behind us. We were not sorry to remain quietly under shelter for several hours, till the heat had

Pacha.

were dirty, dark, and narrow; but we were too much delighted with the endless variety of costume, to think either of the rough stones, or of the heat of the sun, from which we were only partially protected by the projecting balconies and canopied stalls. We passed along the whole length of the

to what nation each fantastic figure belonged. There was the Armenian, with his narrow, straight robe, and his black head-dress, which I can only describe as an enormous square cushion; the dervish, with his blue mantle and high conical cap; the Cossack, with a perfect mountain of fur on his head; and numbers of women, with their white or black veils and huge brown cloaks.

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abated; but as soon as the streets were somewhat on the other, death in its most solemn gloom and in shade, we set out to walk to the Bridge of the stillness! We determined to visit both; but we Caravans, which is the fashionable evening prome- chose first to inspect the portion devoted to the nade in Smyrna. To reach this spot, we had to trav-living; and certainly it presented life under a novel erse almost the whole town, in fact but a continu-aspect. Everything that retained the true "souance of ill-paved streets. It is the custom of the leur locale" was delightful, especially the portly Smyrniote ladies (rather a singular one, according Mussulmans, seated in a circle on their rich carto our ideas) to pass the evening in the open air, pets, smoking gravely, and emitting a short senat the doors of their houses. Amongst the higher tence once in half an hour. But amidst the crowds classes, they even have their vestibules arranged from every nation that surrounded us, there were for this purpose, with ottomans, cushions at no not a few who laid claim to being thoroughly Euallowance, and tables loaded with sweetmeats and ropeanized; having, in their own opinion, arrived all sorts of "fricandises;" and really they looked at this happy consummation by caricaturing outraso charming, as they reclined in graceful attitudes, geously the Parisian fashions of the last season— laughing and talking together, in their little red just as they are apt to do in provincial towns at and gold caps, short velvet jackets, and silk petti- home; though nowhere could the glaring mixture coats, that we were quite disposed to approve of a of colors, and the indescribable hats and feathers, practice which thus enabled us to judge of the far- have looked so absurd as when contrasted with the famed beauty of the Smyrniote women; and I native costume, and surrounded by that truly Orimust own that, except in the island of Naxos, ental scenery. We were watching a group of which I think unrivalled on this score, I have never Turks who were supping together-each one seen a greater collection of lovely faces. We partaking in turn of a greasy ball of rice, which could not, however, pay them all the attention they was administered to him by the head of the party, deserved, from the very evident necessity of taking whose green turban distinguished him as a descencare of ourselves in the narrow streets; for the dant of the prophet-when an exclamation from Turks treated us with indifference; and I think one of our companions attracted our attention to they would really have walked over us quite coolly, a caravan that was crossing the bridge. The prorather than give themselves the trouble of making cession was headed by a little, sober-looking donway. We had especially to keep clear of all the key, unburdened, and without saddle or bridle, magnificent Osmans and Mustaphas who came which led the way with great sagacity; and notjogging towards us, mounted on little miserable withstanding his humble appearance, we were asdonkeys, and looking most pompously ridiculous sured that, without his assistance, the drivers with their solemn faces and ponderous turbans, would have found it impossible to have induced whose weight alone would have seemed sufficient the camels to proceed. Next came a long and to have overpowered the wretched animals they almost interminable line of those huge animals, rode on. The change was delightful when we walking in single file with that slow undulating emerged from the stifling atmosphere of the town movement which is so peculiar to their species; into the lanes which led through green vineyards, they were heavily loaded, and each one was and beneath the pleasant shade of mulberry-trees mounted by his master, who guided him merely to the bridge; nor did we find the walk too long, by the voice. The long train, with its gay eastern though the distance is considerable from the Quar- dresses, had an admirable effect as it wound under tier Franc. the trees and across the bridge; it was altogether in perfect keeping with the landscape. We watched them till the last camel, of which there were some fifteen or twenty, had disappeared, and then we also crossed the bridge, in order to explore the cemetery.

This much-vaunted bridge derives its name from the number of caravans that hourly pass over it on their way to the interior of the country, and is remarkable only from the extreme beauty of its position. It is high, long, and narrow, stretching over a clear and rapid stream, and surrounded on all sides by magnificent old trees. At a short distance rises a green and vine-clad hill, whose summit is crowned by a ruined castle, which, though picturesque, is of no great antiquity or interest. On the one side of the river-the refreshing murmur of whose waters has, in this sultry land, a charm we never could imagine elsewhere-numberless little establishments have been erected, where coffee, pipes, ices, &c., are provided for the promenaders, and chairs are placed under the trees, that they may sit luxuriously in the shade, and partake of these refreshments; and here does the whole fashionable world of Smyrna congregate every evening, to walk and talk, to see and On the other side of this narrow stream, but a few yards distant, silent, desolate, and shrouded in impenetrable darkness, lies a vast Turkish burial-ground, extending much farther than the eye can reach, and possessing, in the highest degree, the picturesque beauty for which those cemeteries have always been celebrated. It was impossible for the most unimaginative mind not to be struck with this singular sight: that little sparkling river, dancing on its way with, on the one hand, life busy, gay, and frivolous; and,

be seen.

The distance was but short which separated the haunts of the living from the dwelling of the dead; yet scarcely had we penetrated a few steps into those thick shades, when we found ourselves shut out completely from all sight or sound that told of human life, and in the very midst of that most awful of all desolation-a solitude peopled with the ashes of those who were and are not! Around us, on every side, dark and silent, rose an interminable forest of gigantic cypress-trees, so closely grouped, that even the light of day could scarcely penetrate amongst them, and spreading on and on in unbroken gloom, till the eye became bewildered in attempting to limit their empire; and beneath, yet more interminable, yet more sad and silent, lay the forest of tombs, each cold white stone strangely distinct in the surrounding darkness, and yet so innumerable, so thickly strown upon the earth, that a chill struck on the heart at the thought of how immense was this population of the dead. There was not a sound: for the summer breeze, passing through the unbending branches of the cypresses, drew no murmur from those mournf.i trees, and the slanting rays of the setting sun, as they shot at intervals across the graves, made the turbaned monuments look, in the raint glimmering

light, like the pale phantoms of the departed, each | them in Turkish; and for some time his utmost one watching over his own slumbering ashes. We eloquence was only met by the most angry refusat down among the tombs to wait the termination sals; at last, however, they consented, with very of sunset, whose influence we felt in the deepening surly looks, to admit us, provided we would take shadows round us; though it was rarely that we off our shoes; nor would they even allow us to caught a glimpse of that fading glory, or of the substitute slippers, as is the custom at Constantinosofter light of the rising moon, whose silver cres- ple. None of the party were disposed to undergo cent, appearing among the trees, amply compen- the penance of walking in this manner up the stone sated for the entire absence of twilight. Monsieur stairs excepting myself; and I therefore entered V read to us the inscription on one of the alone, but not until each of the Turks had separgraves near us, whose highly-gilt monument and ately knelt down to ascertain that I really had, in painted turban seemed to indicate that the dust it all sincerity, complied with their request. The contained had once been honored of men. It stated mosque was extremely large, divided into three that this son of the faithful had, throughout a long compartments, the centre of which was the most life, so perseveringly performed all the outward sacred, and separated from the others by a few acts of devotion in which the religion of the Mos- low steps. At the east end, much in the same polem consists, that he was most assuredly wander- sition as the altar in Christian churches, was a reping even now with the dark-eyed houris by the resentation of the tomb of the prophet, and near to shores of that lake where lie the sparkling bowls it was a sort of pulpit, from which a portion of the filled with the water of immortality. To me, in Koran was read every day. From the vast domethat vast abode of the dead, which in its deep still-shaped roof hung a long rope, supporting innumerness seemed so far removed from the hopes and able little glass lamps, and various strange-looking fears of human life, it was quite painful to be re-ornaments-such as ostriches' eggs, horses' tails, called by this pompous panegyric to the gross and &c.; and in the centre were inscribed the seven lowering ideas with which the Mohammedans have names of God in Turkish, Persian, and Arabic, clothed even the heaven of their dreams; for their forming a large circle of gilt letters. The floor creed does not allow the soul to disengage itself was entirely covered with those beautiful little from the trammels of the flesh, even in their hope carpets of which even one is considered a treasure of an immortality beyond the grave. It is a very elsewhere. A few early worshippers were scattered characteristic trait of this people, the care with here and there, bowed towards Mecca, with their which a little basin is scooped out on the stone foreheads touching the ground; and, difficult as it of every grave, to catch the rain-water, that the is to attract the attention of a Turk when engaged birds may come and drink; thus carrying out their in his devotions, my entrance roused them all. principle of universal charity even after death. They stared at me for a moment in utter amazeWe left the cemetery as soon as it was dark, pass-ment, and then simultaneously starting from their ing once more through the merry groups who were proceeding homewards, each one carrying his little paper lantern to light his steps as he went along. Before six o'clock the next morning we were all astir, anxious to accomplish what we could in the short time allotted to us. We proceeded first to the bazaars, in search of some of the beautiful Smyrniote embroidery, which is nowhere else to be found. These bazaars are as spacious as they are interminable, and their shops displayed the produce of every part of the globe. We entered into several of them, finding each furnished with its Persian carpets, and comfortable cushions placed round the wall, where we were invited to sit and drink coffee as long as we chose. But the most interesting sight, where everything was new and picturesque, were the traders who had come from the interior of the country, and who, with their singular dresses, wild gestures, and strange dialect, attracted much of our attention as they stood in groups round the seats of the money changers, or at the stall of the public weigher-his balance and weights being in constant requisition for the grains and spices which formed the principal part of their merchandise.

I was very anxious to gain admittance into a mosque, which is as difficult in Smyrna as it is easy in Constantinople; and accordingly proceeded to one of the largest, in hopes of being able to effect an entrance with the help of Monsieur VNumbers of Turks were collected on the wide steps which lead to the three principal doors, and round the fountains, where they performed their ablutions before daring to enter within the sacred precincts. As soon as we had passed the railing which enclosed the outer court, they hurried towards us, with the evident intention of opposing our further progress. Monsieur V addressed

knees, crowded round me, vociferating and even throwing themselves on the ground, to ascertain if I had not already desecrated their sanctuary by walking as though on common ground. The mullah, through whose influence I had been admitted, came to my assistance, and showed them that I had left my shoes outside, upon which they returned to their places, though with looks of great discontent. I was standing near the principal door, which was wide open, and so large, as to afford a view of the interior of the mosque from the street; at that moment a Frenchman, who was on board of the same steamer with ourselves, happening to pass by, saw me there, and imagined that any one might enter at will. He therefore came up the stairs, and had advanced to the door, when he was observed by a man, apparently belonging to the mosque, who was sweeping the carpets. I suppose he was already exasperated at my presence; but he had scarcely perceived this new intruder, than he uttered a howl of rage, and seizing a pole which stood near, he ran at him with it in the most ferocious manner. The attack was so sudden and so determined, that the poor Frenchman had no time to collect his ideas; he ejaculated one faint "Miséricorde !" then tumbled head-foremost down the stairs, and disappeared in a whirlwind of dust. I soon after made my exit also, but in a quieter manner, and we then turned our steps in the direction of the Jewish synagogue, which, to my great delight, Monsieur V had promised I should visit, as he was well acquainted with one of the rabbins.

The synagogue is in a crowded part of the town, and so hemmed in by houses, that it is not easy to distinguish its outward form; and the more so, as it is surrounded by a high wall. We were admitted at a side door, where we waited a few minutes

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