Bos Tepe, (ox's head,) which terminates a low and narrow isthmus, Sinope presents a most unique appearance between two gulfs which seem ready to submerge it, the most western being incessantly agitated. The eye wanders over immense tracts covered with the cypress, the nettletree, laurels, olives, and pomegranates. The metallic cupolas, minarets, and tiled roofs, gleam, like conservatories, from amidst the dense foliage of the landscape. Upon the quay where the dock-yard is situated, and in its neighborhood only, signs of business animation are visible. In a right angle with the head of the cape, before mentioned, extend a double line of ditches and high Byzantine walls, flanked with numerous towers, the most important of which are at the two extremes. From the interior, the city is bounded and overlooked by an elevation, covered with fortifications, disposed in an irregular square. The extent and the magnificence of these works, with the formidable kale, (castle, acropolis, citadel,) produces a remarkable effect, recalling, by its surprising resemblance, the palace of the Popes of Avignon. A large esplanade is here seen, supported by beautiful arches, forming a perfect semi-circle. Among the numerous inscriptions, several of which contain the names of Adrian, Germanicus, and Antoninus, we noticed one seldom met with, in the Turkish language, with its translation in Greek. The Greek characters are those of the fifteenth century, during the last years of the Byzantine empire. In a niche, at the summit of one of the towers, the inhabitants display, as the founder of Sinope, a completely disfigured bust, which is the object of innumerable superstitions among them. All these works of defence, with their numerous square towers, of the most primitive appearance, are composed of curiously heterogeneous materials. It would be difficult to find a stone which does not bear indubitable marks of having been previously used. One stratum is constructed entirely of shafts or columns, in the form of drums turned upon the side; the next alternates with pedestals and chapiters. Here and there projects a basrelief, a sarcophagus, a tauribolium, a frieze, a fragment, a relic perhaps; and all these various matters are disposed pellmell, without any attempt at arrangement, forming a perfect archæological museum, where each article is labelled with an in

scription more or less explanatory, though frequently entirely incorrect. It is easy, however, to perceive that most of them belong to the Greco-Roman epoch. This style of building, or rather of reconstruction, is very common, indeed almost invariable where the Turks have succeeded to the lower empire. All these bristling walls, bastions, and formidable towers, are, however, quite unguarded except by a single sentinel. Dismounted cannon, use

less from rust and decay, may be seen on all sides, beneath the briers and thistles of the square, which is in the care of a halfphantom sentinel-a poor invalid gunner. There was no garrison, but a kind of national militia, centering in Sinope and its environs. An official permission was, however, quite indispensable for gaining access to these ruins, surmounted with their warlike panoply.

The principal mosque, Bayuk Djami, possesses an immense court, or rather cloister, which is the most poetical retreat for the meditative traveler. The center is occupied with a minaret, in the ordinary style, a gigantic cypress, and a charming fountain, covered with a pavilion of wood and tiles. From time to time, some ascetic mollah, the familiar genius of the mosque, or a female hermetically veiled, crosses the inclosure, gliding over the mossgrown flag-stones so noiselessly as to leave the flocks of pigeons undisturbed, which everywhere in Turkey are recognized as public pensioners. One of these mysterious figures once accosted us with every manifestation of cordial sociality. It was the mufti of the place, a charming old man, eighty years of age, who seriously believed in the efficacy of the amulets, which he distributed for the cure of fevers, and worse-fleas. He boasted of having distributed more than twelve hundred in the course of a year. Opposite one of the openings of the court is an admirable door of marble, from a more ancient mosque which was destroyed by fire. It is one of the purest and most precious specimens of oriental art. The elegance of its style, the exactness of its proportions, and the accuracy of its carving, render it worthy to be regarded as a classic of its kind, and as deserving of study as the Parthenon. Like all the productions of the Turks at their most prosperous epoch, it presents exclusively the Persian and Arabic elements.

The original foundations of the city, which according to tradition were upon the inner declivity of the cape, beyond the Greek quarter, are now occupied by some Turkish residences. A cicerone (what locality has not its cicerone?) wished us to see the portrait of Mithridates in a fragment of coarse Byzantine fresco. Having requested a view of his not less celebrated compatriot, Diogenes, he incontinently directed us to some other ruins of the lower empire, called palladia, the palace, where we were, however, utterly unable to discover any documents upon the cynical philosophy. Higher up are the remains of the water reservoirs, covered with a semi-circular arch. Then comes a little mosque attached to a turbe, or fu- | neral chapel, where is seen the tomb of a Khan of Crimea. Some plane-trees, a beautiful brook, and a cafe, make this a delightful resting-place. At the highest point of the Bos Tepe stands an abandoned turbe, in which we found an ass looking through one of the windows with all the melancholy gravity of his race. To the west, along the sea-coast, nothing but rocks are to be seen; while the east presents beautifully fertile lands, unmarked, | however, by the slightest sign of cultivation.

Toward the north, upon the highlands, the heavy rains which fall during the inclement season unite in a depression of the earth and form a lake, favorable for hunting ducks and bustards. The hunter, provided with bait, conceals himself under small huts covered with earth. The east, on the opposite, is bounded with volcanic steeps, producing, however, a luxurious vegetation. Quite near, another Turkish village, famous for its caimac, (the cream of curdled milk,) occupies the depth of a shady valley. The number of brooks found in each locality is prodigious. Strabo, who was a native of the neighboring village of Amasia, speaks of the remarkable reservoirs excavated for fish on the margin of the sea, traces of which are yet perceptible. Fragments of monuments and utensils are everywhere discovered, mingled with human bones. It is difficult to believe that Sinope has ever extended beyond its present site.

The outdoor costume of the Greek females interests your curiosity. It consists of a kind of a cossack, invariably of a sombre color, the ridiculous shape of which is by no means relieved by the white VOL. IV., No. 6.-RR

handkerchief encircling the head. Brides are adorned, during the nuptial ceremony, with a heavy square miter, tarbouch, of red velvet, attached to a cloth cafetan of the same color; the toute ensemble is ridiculous. This cannot be said, however, of the ordinary indoor costume, the elegance of which may be seen in the illustrations presented. Their jewels are extremely expensive, and moreover of real value; as the girdle clasps, sequins, bracelets, &c., are generally specimens of true art, and the coins are of unquestionable antiquity. A young girl often wears a complete collection of sassanides, or of arsacides. The most eager numismatologist frequently finds it impossible to purchase these objects, their owners believing them possessed of talismanic virtues, besides their value as genealogical certificates.

Quarantine is established in the Greek quarter, under the direction of a European physician; and here reside the Russian and Austrian agents, the correspondent of the mail-packets, and even the kaïmacan, or governor of the province, whose administration extends over eleven districts, with the assistance of as many mudirs.

All these coun

The taxes are regulated in a singular manner in Turkey. They are rated by a company of Armenians, who keep a saraph, or banker, with the kaïmacan. Everything is, however, performed by the Turkish functionaries, to the great benefit of the Armenian financiers. tries have recently been organized under the present relation. Sinope had only quite lately submitted to the new arrangement, its inhabitants having always claimed exemption on account of their direct descent from the first conquerors. A short time since it was in arrears for four years' payment. The province of Djida, among others, has been one of the most refractory. In 1843 or 1844 the governor of Costamboul took passage in an English steamer, with his harem, for the neighborhood of Ineboli. As the vessel neared its destination the captain fired a salute to prepare the inhabitants for the arrival. A report spread immediately that it was an expedition of tax-gatherers. Several hundred men armed themselves to oppose their landing, until it was explained that they had nothing to fear from these inoffensiv females and domestics.

During our stay we were entertained by the kaïmacan of Sinope, whose affectionate hospitality cannot be sufficiently praised. His young son, Halil-Bey, a spoiled child, was induced, by the reward of numerous cigarettes, to sit for a sketch in his Albanian costume, which is regarded in the east as the fashionable one, par excellence. The lower floor, in which our lodging room was situated, was used also as a warehouse. Half a score of worthless blackguards disturbed our nights incessantly with their noisy and drunken revelries. Three murderers had been among their number for eighteen months, whose sentence had been delayed from time to time under various pretexts, (thanks to favor in the right quarters,) they meanwhile enjoying the most perfect liberty. Whatever the crime may be, Turkish justice proceeds with a slowness which often entirely changes the anticipated results.

The kaïmacan never failed during our stay to invite the Russian vice-consul to dine with us; indeed, he was a man every way agreeable to him, aside from politics. The management of our knives, forks, and other gastronomical utensils of the Franks, was, however, singularly embarrassing to him, and unfortunately his greediness generally rendered them useless.

The environs of Sinope abound in magnificent forests of building wood, which is transported either by buffaloes, or launched from the summit of the cliffs to the sea, where it is shipped to St. Siman. Cloths of Costamboul, goats' hair, hemp, nuts, maize, and tobacco, constitute the principal articles of export. The trade in leeches, which is very important, is entirely monopolized by Europeans. At Alatcham, one of the most favorable points for the culture of tobacco, we found the most perfect exhibition of the nature and manners of these countries. The chief of the place, a magnificent Osmanli, still more magnificently dressed, overwhelmed us with the eagerness of his simple curiosity. Never had we excited such astonishment. At meal-times especially, the windows and doors were quite darkened with the crowd of heads assembled to witness our knife and fork performances.

The country between Sinope and Trebizond should be traversed with rapidity, as most terrible fevers are prevalent. Several villages are entirely deserted during the

summer on this account, among others, Fatsah, Ordon, and the banks of the Thermeh. A peculiarity of these fevers is the uncertainty of their intermittances; the third attack generally proves fatal.

Such was Sinope as seen before the late battle. The story of the modern tragedy associated with it is a very brief one. In the latter end of November, 1853, the Turkish squadron, consisting of six frigates, four steamers, and a corvette, under the command of Osman Pacha, took shelter, from stress of weather, in the road of Sinope. A Russian squadron, of somewhat superior force, having perceived them there, blockaded them, and, at the same time dispatched a steamer to Sebastopol for a reinforcement. In answer to the arguments of his second in command to endeavor to force their way out, as doubtless might then have been done, Osman is said to have replied only by a larger puff of the fragrant weed, and the further observation that there was but one Allah, and Mahomet was his prophet, seemed to his mind to divest the dilemma of all danger. So stood matters until the morning of the 30th November; that day was ushered in with fog, but about ten, A. M., the mist lifted like a curtain, and showed to the Turks six line of battleships bearing down upon them, while frigates and steamers hovered outside. How that deadly fight commenced, and how it was fought, we, though on the spot, can gather but little intelligence; but for the result there can be few spots darker, even in the blood-stained chronicle of Turkish history. One steamer only escaped to tell the tale; escaped with her cable shot away and several men killed and wounded. Of the rest there remains but sunken wrecks and shattered hulls; fourteen vessels, two or three, no doubt, merchantmen, are at this moment visible from our deck. The Turks themselves, when they felt that all hope had passed, blew up three ships; and the gallant second in command is believed himself to have fired the magazine of his own frigate. The formidable batteries so much talked of are three in number, containing thirteen guns, three or four of which were not fired, and it is more than likely their shot never touched the Russians at all, though four thousand shot are calculated to have been discharged at one of them. Of four thousand sailors,