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reach his hand, some of them may serve to light comforter, be there called curtained-at his amber-mouthed meerschaum; but this one page least our fair one's siestas smack strongly he will preserve, for I think he will not be sorry of Robin Hood and the free forest; they to know that in sending him our Minho tour in a printed form, both Mr. and I echo, in regard pitch their tent wherever they list, and there to him, the words of a venerable bard addressed to they make their bed. a valued friend and fellow-traveller in Italy:

"Companion!
These records take-and happy should we be,
Were but the gift a meet return to thee
For kindnesses that never ceased to flow,
And prompt self-sacrifice, to which we owe
Far more than any heart but ours can know."'-
Vol. i., p. 203.

"As soon as we arrived, hooks were screwed to four trees, and my Indian hammock and J→'s were slang. Into them we got without delay, and were asleep in five minutes; a tiny clear brooklet tinkling along just under us on its way to the river. While we slept, the gentlemen had our cold dinner set out on a table, also al fresco. When all was prepared, we were called; and after we had dined under the oaks, we retired to In ingeniously tormenting this excellent our hammocks again, and slept for two or three "H," "I" was naturally followed by "J;" hours more under the greenwood trees, till man for thus is expressed a maiden fair, buxom, and horse were ready to start. J-mounted, blithe, and debonnaire, and worth a wilder-singingness of professors of A B C and algebra. In the matter of names, Jaqueline, with her pretty nose aquiline, might have passed; but to us, as we read the record of her

"Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles Such as hang on Hebe's cheek,

And love to live in dimple sleek,"

'Come, stain your cheeks with nut or berry, You'll find the gipsy's life is merry.'

But she, poor girl! is in no need of the gipsy cosmetic, for sun and air, on this tour, have already stained her cheeks nut-brown."-Vol. i., p. 150.

Assuredly he who induces J- dash to change her name quicker than her complexJ became Jane the Jane of men, "in hea-ion, and for better, will jog through life's ven yclept Euphrosine." She is the sun-weary journey with companion pure, sparkbeam of the party; more joyous than Miss ling, and dancing on a sunlit crystal brook, Joy of the joyous Titmarsh; to-day "she that runs sidelong to the dry, dusty highrides a black horse, well-bred, but rather way.

fond of kicking;" to-morrow, "a white It was in the merry month of May, 1845, steed given to prancing;" all colors come" in dirty weather more like November," alike to her, when cantering, as to Mr. Jo- that the magician steam, transported our seph Hume, when voting; away she goes, travellers from Southampton to Oporto, now galloping over sea-sands faster than" where Bacchus sits soberly at his ledger, Byron at Venice, on steeds the minions of vigilant to profit," not straddling a barrel, their race, "full of fun and frolic" like her- like the Cupid of our giu-palaces. The self, and animated, like all near her, with change effected in a few hours, surpassed "her own merry voice." Blue devils and passing from Dover to Calais-perhaps black cares Horatian, which mount behind from this globe to the Georgium Sidus; for every one of the other twenty-three letters true it is that in these threadbare days, a when on horseback, never perch on J's terra incognita within sixty hours' sail is pillion, whether she rambles over ramblas, clamoring piteously for a Captain Cook and the so-called roads of Portuguese courtesy, a red Murray. Our heroine re-echoes this being in reality like the graves and tomb- great fact, being continually ravished by stones of Lisbon's churchyards after the the charms of "uncommonness;" yet the earthquake: n'importe! she is the first out first flower that she notices is our own of bed, and up into the saddle, to carol little sea-sand bladder-plant;" and her first with the lark, and scent the morning air; welcome to a new land is chequered with a the first at the folding star of eve to close farewell to dear old England. her eyelids with the flowers, regardless alike of noise, creepers, or counterpanes: short "It was at night the signal-gun of our English and sweet is her sleep; blessing on the steamer roused me from a deep sleep. I got upman who invented it, saith Sancho, when opened the shutters. A full moon was shining tossed about in his excursions in this penin-visible as they were audible; beyond the bar, brilliantly; the white breakers of the bar were as sula, where, whatever be the case as regards southwards, the sea was as a plain of burnished, blankets, four-post beds have yet to be in- not gold, nor yet silver, but something between, vented. Neither can sleep, Shakspeare's which now glistened, now glittered, as the waves

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rolled gently along. To the north all seemed exchange a salt for a fresh shower-bath, as wrapped in gloom; but in that direction my heart" it did not rain, but pour, and we were then lay. I again looked anxiously into the deep wet, not to the skin, but through it,"-a gloom, and a heave of some friendly wave brought into view a galaxy of bright stars floating upon passage performed frequently in three the waters; it was as if a constellation had come minutes, and as effectually as if we had down from the heavens to rest upon these waters. been soused in the Douro." This hissingThese were lights from the steamer. I watched hot horseshoe operation, which cooled Falher long-now in sight, now out of sight-now staff, is recorded with his dry humor by one twinkling star, then again the whole constel- our Undines; yet a damp carpet-bag is an lation; and so it continued for perhaps half an indifferent remedy in cases of hydrophobia, hour, when from a point midway between the vessel and the shore, and where before I had not especially when the inns are detestable; distinguished aught upon the water, rose up as by but that's nothing!" (i. 48.) Thus the enchantment a pillar of fire, which, after ascen- ladies, with hearts of lions and skins of ding to an immense height, made a graceful curve, mermaids, sit steaming and singing in the broke, and fell, not noiselessly, into the sea. sun, while their Mackintoshed cavaliers This was a rocket from the pilot's boat, on its re- croak like frogs, or Dr. Johnson, who proturn to land; a signal that all was right, and that tested that by no one thing ever discovered the steamer might pursue her way-which she instantly did, as I suppose, for not another star was human happiness so much advanced as twinkled from the water's breast.'-Vol. i., p. 18. by a good tavern; and to our poor way of thinking, when on the road, the great Rambler and moralist was right.

The party proceeded to San Joan de Foz for sea-bathing. The contempt for machines here would shock a Ramsgate puritan, as tents are merely pitched on the shore, to which persons of all sexes, ages, and ranks resort ;

"while idlers, male and female, stand on the ledges of rocks and on the sands, and gaze at them as they go into these mysterious cabins, attired in their usual dresses, gay or sordid, and as they come out again--the women, clad to the throat in coarse full robes of blue frieze (their hair beautifully arranged, braided on the forehead, secured by bands of riband, and hanging down the back in long plaits, tied with ribbon, pink or blue, like the one which encircles the head); the men in jackets and trousers of the same material as the dresses of the women. Assistants, both male and female, who look like cousin-germans to the Tritons, conduct the bathers into the sea, and hold them while there,-ducking and sousing them in every big wave, that comes threatening and storming over them like a platoon of soldiers firing with a blank cartridge. An English person just landed on these shores, looks on the scene with wonder and distaste, and resolves that his wife or his daughters, who probably are also turning away from it as if they questioned the decorum of the exhibition, shall never be seen in such a situation. He and they get accustomed to it, however, and the next, or perhaps before the expiration of this very season, the fairest form that issues from the wave in a saturated blue frieze garment is that of his own wife or daughter.”—Vol. i., p. 10.

The established taste of the British market will have brandy in its port and bandits in its Peninsula sketches;-but

"as for me," says our sensible heroine," though of a sex in whom cowardice is no disgrace, I cannot say that I anticipated hazard or required much persuasion in rambling out of the beaten tracks in a country where so few English ladies ever travel at all. Nor have I any personal adventure to relate; for, as we met none, I resisted the temptation of getting up a few moving accidents and hairbreadth 'scapes,' and of so giving to my Jour nal the attraction of a Story-book. The truth is, as I believe, that unless you lay yourself out for danger by some bravado, or some indiscretion of temper, or by neglect of such ordinary precautions as are customary and reasonable, you may, when the country is not overrun with civil warriors, travel in Portugal as securely, if not so smoothly, as you can navigate the Thames from Vauxhall to Richmond, or as you may ascend the Nile from Cairo to the Cataracts, where, under the protectorate of Mehemet Ali, you have for the present no chance of an adventure, if you do not make one for yourself."

The few authentic cases of falling in with thieves, have, she is satisfied, "arisen more or less from a want of prudence in the parties robbed; and any incautious Londoner might lose his purse or even his life in romantic fashion on Primrose Hill or Hampstead Heath." In most countries a judiSuch is the force of example, and socious display of tempting baits may induce soon are strange habits adopted. After a letters out of horses, persons of unfastiproper amount of immersion and benefit, dious probity, to avail themselves of conveour travellers quit the shore for the inte- nient cork-woods and lampless lanes; and rior, and visit the romantic and almost un-even such seems to have been the history of explored districts entre Douro y Minho- Mr. H- -'s accident-the only one of often, however, it would seem, merely to the sort that came under the journalist's

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personal knowledge-the melancholy up-riding in English fashion, and in English shot thereof being the loss of good Dumby-riding costume, in itself creates what the blindy's watch. Not the ghost even of a French call a sensation; but to see her in departed robber was ungallant enough to such out-of-the-way corners the wonder was cross our ladies' own path. They were tenfold, and comical were the remarks we neither to be scared by shadows, nor the used to overhear, both in the town and reality of roughing it considerably on hired country. Nay, such was the rage for copyhacks, with a negation of bandboxes more ing the last new fashions, that at the next conformable to marching orders than com- carnival, when all devout Roman Catholics fortable to the fair sex, with whom to be dance and disguise themselves, an equestriseen is among the legitimate ends of travel, an mask appeared, to the rapture of streets as well as to see; "Il faut souffrir pour and balconies, representing an Engêtre belle." No sooner arrived at Barcel- lish lady." "There she sat-and a shocklos than a Portuguese fidalgo ing bad seat was hers-on a side saddle; her long petticoat almost sweeping the pavement, and her black hat looking not much more at ease upon her head than she on her saddle." In Old England the quality of climate, creed, and causeways will not permit those alfresco amusements which usher Lent in so agreeably in lands where the spring is more advanced and the church less reformed ;-otherwise such in female bosoms is the spirit of contradiction and the charm of novelty, that Britannia when masquerading would doubtless adopt the riding-habits of Lusitania.

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before us.

came to pay his respects, and to invite us, on the part of his wife, and mother, and daughters, to a little ball, which they had suddenly determined on getting up for us in honour of our letter of recommendation. We declined it, because we felt that we had no spare strength to waste on dancing, but must husband what we had for the hard work I have since thought that it was a stupid spiritless thing to refuse the ball. Our gentlemen thought it very stupid indeed, and accused us of a jealousy of the black eyes of the female fidalguia of Barcellos. No doubt we should have met as much of the best company' of the place as could have been collected on a brief summons, and we should have added something to our small stock of knowledge of Portuguese provincial society at home. But besides the reason I have given, I must own that I was shy. My want of skill in the spoken language made me sure that I should bore and disappoint the kindness of our inviters. Some misgivings about the toilet, too, might have flitted before me, when I begged to be excused. Carpet-bags are sorry wardrobes for ladies."-Vol. ì., p. 51.

The modes of conveyance are antique, and some of them classical. Ladies are carried to balls on mules or donkeys, and to operas in "the family coach built in the time of Noah," and drawn by oxen, exactly as the matrons of ancient Rome took drives in their rhedas.

"A lady on a fine black mule was attended by a gentleman on a very handsome black horse, and followed by two running footmen; and indeed they the animals. The Senhor was dressed as any had to run to keep up with the quick jog-trot of English gentleman might be dressed for taking ride on the Steyne at Brighton. But his Senhora! She was the wonder. Attired in a rich black silk, curiously fashioned, fitting tight to the figure, and showing off the well-rounded waist; on her head a large square clear white muslin kerchief richly embroidered round the edge, falling down the back and below the shoulders-rather standing off from the shoulders-and upon this a round beaver hat, of a shining jet black. The crown of the hat was also round, with a little inclination to the sugar-loaf shape-the brim might be three inches wide. The white kerchief did not appear on the forehead, but came out from under the bat, just behind the ears, leaving an unobstructed view of a encircled by massive gold chains, one of which pair of magnificent gold ear-rings; the neck was depended as low as the waist."-Vol. i., p. 51.

Having in our last Number treated the important article dress in many of its philosophical and psychological bearings, we can only remark now, that this ruling passion, 66 one would not sure look frightful," was implanted by nature in every female heart from pure kindness to man. These "misgivings," reasonable in themselves, were perfectly gratuitous in this case, for besides that there are some who when unadorned are adorned the most, if attraction be, as it is with the glowworm, the leading principle of female costume, then our amazons were already equipped for the finest fancy-ball ever given by Donna Maria da Gloria at her royal palace of Necessidades-a word which we have been informed at the Foreign-office refers to makeshifts, not necessaries. In all times and places our fair I and J-were the observed of all observers, and How well J- would look in all this! but the envy and admiration of the surrounding it is to the charms of nature that our fair dark sex. "To see a lady on horseback, author, although feelingly alive to beauty

sail, glittering in the sunshine, chances to appear,
as it were, floating on the top of one of these dark
red stems."Vol. i., pp. 21, 141.
sable pines, or is framed in between their rich

wharf.

in woman and man too, turns with fondest [the dark green of the pines; and then a white admiration and refreshing has it been to us, denizens of the thick-pent city, to roam the fields with one who sees the picture in every view; always selecting the emphatic, and rejecting the common-place; as her Her sketch of the Lima must be remempainter eye catches local color, so her poet's bered, as this is the river of oblivion which ear, stone-deaf to the frogs, drinks the mu- the soldiers of Brutus feared to cross, from sic of nightingales serenading near falling the unmilitary fear of forgetting their absent waters. Commend us to a horse when in wives at homes, a calamity happily obviatsearch of the melodious or picturesque in ed in the present case by our commandthe Peninsula, where the dilly is a poor ve- er-in-chief, who very properly took his life's hicle for enlightened curiosity--and hers is partner with him. The sunny and Cuypfresh and exhaustive, seizing on all the vari-like boating on the Valenza recalls the Cydeties which custom has rendered stale to nus of Cleopatra, rather than dull Lethe's the native, and which envious time had dulled in our memories; for we, too, when George the Third was king, have gazed on "But yonder are some men fish-spearing. Just the plains of Portugal, and scaled the sier- now we passed a group of fishers netting. As we ras of Spain, and still can speak to the truth glide along we are greeted, in mid-river, by men who are wading across with baskets on their of the pictures that here pass before us heads; but hands and staff are needed here to like realities in the sweet interchange of her steady them across the unequal shoals. Nightin rich diorama. Now she brings back to us gales are in full song in the hazel and olive copthe terraced slope trellised with vines, bask-ses with which the river margin is decorated as ing below the peeled granite alp, the san- with hedgerows-hardly hedgerows, little lines The distant cuckoos dalled Hebes tripping with poised pitcher of sportive wood run wild.' down to bosky bourn, which laces with sil- are calling to each other. Now we come upon a ver some deep vale overflowing with milk-above twenty boats, and a very pretty fleet it is. fleet of boats, in full sail; for here is deeper water and honey; then the immemorial wood, Blue dragon-flies-blue, green, golden-are hover where ilexes hide their knotted knees in ing over the water; and in the water is a kind of fern, whence spring the startled deer, or long delicate weed, that looks like sea-weed, the vulture parting the aromatic air with heavy finest, most beautiful that ever was seen; but it is wing; anon a mellow bell wakes the lone- the growth of the river sand, for there it has its liness, where sleek convent slumbers in shel- root, and the long fibres wave and stream under tered sunshine, or lordly castle frowns from and look, indeed, like the tresses of some group of the current with more life than the current itself, commanding height, perched just where Tur- Nymphs whom the silver sands have suddenly hidner would have wished them. But it is den at our approach, leaving nothing of them visiamong the mountains that our Lady of the ble but their hair. The sky above and around is Lakes always finds herself most at home, all bright_azure-no, not all just now; for there watching the fleeting vapors which bear her are eider-down-like clouds, with brown edges hovon shadowy wings far away to other hills. ering over the mountains, which those white clouds darken, but not sadden, with their shadows. The men have now taken to their paddles, and we glide along against the breeze, if breeze it may be called, that comes so soft and so fragrant from the west, and need not whisper whence it stole its balmy sweets,' for yonder is the orchard it has been robbing-a grove of orange-trees and lemontrees in flower. The hues of the slightly rippled and quite transparent river are now more beautiful than ever. As we look down through the water, the effect on the sandy bed is as if it was overlaid with a golden network of large open meshes. This is the reflection of the slightly curled water, the edges of the little waves sparkling and dancing in the sun, and so on the light clean sand beneath. In some places the effect of the sun on the surface of the water is that of myriads of diamonds dancing. Almost all the way down, on both banks, except with such intervals as make an agreeable variety, by letting us in to peeps at the fields, the river is luxuriantly edged, but not hedged, with

"There, it was a pompous army of clouds marching and deploying under me; here it was one vast stiff body of whitest fog imbedded on our left in the deep valley which it filled, and so motionless, so fast asleep, as if it would never wake or stir to the call of the winds, and as if it were impermeable to the sun, and lay there as a shroud to some great mystery. We proceeded over hills green with fern, rhododendron, laurustinus; and gay with a thousand flowers, gumcistus, heaths white and red, yellow gorse, yellow broom and white, wild mignonette, yellow jessamine, clematis, lavender, heartsease, white thorn, dog rose, white and red, and thousands, thousands more, all, or most of them, in bloom, all sending forth an exhalation of rich distilled perfumes,' and scattered among this wilderness of sweets were huge grey stones, or rather hillocks of stone: and then some opening in the wood gives you a view of the blue sea, the blue made yet more blue by contrast with

brushwood; and the branches, not only of the olives and tall oaks already spoken of, but of this underwood, reach far over upon the stream in many places, and there, on the lithe twigs, the nightingales swing and sing."-Vol. i., p. 69.

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Yet while these calm waters reflect skies serene, and "glide like happiness away, between banks enamelled with flowers, and resonant with songs of love, man's hatred contrasts darkly with the harmony of nature, for reciprocal is the abhorrence with which Spaniard and Portuguese scowl at each other from their opposed banks. "Pitiable indeed," says our kind lady, "is the discord between two people who worship the same God, follow the same superstitions, have nearly the same language and manners and customs, and a soil which Nature seems to have intended for one vast brotherhood" (i. 90). Yet so it has ever

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semicircle, making their bows. The admiral on his sofa seemed in a brown study,' till reminded by some gentlemen that these visitors were persons of distinction. What do they want?They cone to offer their compliments to your Excellency.' He got up, inclined his head, and thanked them, Muito obrigado, muito obrigado'-much obliged, much obliged-and bowed them out. His demeanor here was thought altogether rough and eccentric. I dare say he had neither leisure nor inclination to bandy compliments with Portuguese gentlemen and friars, the greater part of whom, he might well suspect, wished him and all Dom Pedro's partisans at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean.”—Vol. i., p. 62.

Tobacco, in any shape, is no less effective than orthodox in Spain, and a costume radically wrong in Pall-Mall is permissible to campaigners in Portugal, even of the gentle sex; and here "bluff Charley," coat and color to the contrary notwithstanding,

been, and, we fear, will long be. The in-placed Donna Gloria on the throne as compatible races fret from the friction of quickly as he displaced Mehemet Ali in neighborhood, and their petty rivalries Syria, cutting with nimble hanger the Gorburn fiercely, whether the lordly Minho or dian knots of red-tapists; l'habit ne fait the puny Caya be their Rubicon. The pas l'amiral; and we are not sorry that our proud Spaniard looks down on the Portuguese as slaves, while the latter really use their rivals as such, God having, say they, first created them, gentlemen, and then the Gallicians to be their servants of all-work. These bright water landskips and sad reflections are judiciously mingled with portrait. We should be inexcusable in not presenting our friends in Marylebone with a full length of their heroic member :

nautical fame is still upheld by one at least of the old homespun school, in whose philosophy it was not dreamt of that midshipmen ought, like so many Joinvilles, to flutter cambric handkerchiefs on the Bay of Biscay, and pick preserved green-peas off silver plates.

The transition from blue jackets to red ones is easy. Here we have a Salvator Rosa battle-picce, where the strife of elements keeps time and tune with the war of "But we had some plain talk, as well as vocal man: she stands on the bridge of Miseand instrumental harmony. Admiral Napier (Don rella, which spans a wild gorge by which Pedro's admiral-the Nelson of his cause) lodged the merciless invader, stained with more himself in this house in the course of his gallant than fiendish crimes, fled in 1809 before vagaries as an amphibious warrior in the north of the avenger. The pass of peril still bears Portugal, after his exploit at Cape St. Vincent. the name of the worsted runaway: now it Senhor C gave a curious account of his bluntness of deportment to the astonished natives. Senhor lay still and beauteous as a babe's repose, C-called on him here. What do you want? the stream a toy for anglers, the precipices inquired the admiral. He was lounging on the for artists. "How different was it on that sofa in the drawing-room, smoking a cigar; he dismal night of storm and rain, when Soult was dressed in clothes once blue, now of no color, and his thousands were hurrying over it, and was altogether the most slovenly-looking of while the floods were out, and heroes I called to pay my respects.' Will you write? Whatever your Excellency pleases.' The admiral throws his cigar out of the window, takes a pinch of snuff, and reflects Write, then, to the Juiz de Fora, be must feed my men directly. Is that done?'- Yes.'Send it off then.-A pinch of snuff. Write to such an authority of such and such a parish or village; he must furnish three bullocks, &c., &c. ;' and so he went on, taking pinches of snuff, and issuing his requisitions. The abbot and principals of a neighboring monastery waited on him in form. They were introduced, and ranged themselves in

The angry spirit of the water shrieked!the English cannon (though but one gun was up, the echoes must have made it seem twenty) thundering upon them, and ploughing into their serried masses.

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Passing to a sujet de genre we select a domestic interior, a sketch of life at Oporto:

"The English carry London hours to Oporto

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