f f

nal evidence of thought and taste. But at This “ private and confidential” reserve is
any rate we must give our readers at start- extended to mute mountains and streams
ing such a general notion of the new Portu- which, however babbling, are seldom sensi-
guese pilgrims as can be gathered from the tively alive to the fear of being named and
scattered hints of the book itself, for it compromised. Thus a striking point of
does not open with a distinot catalogue view is alluded to frequently as D's
raisonné like Father Chaucer's, and the station.” With, all respect to D—'s in-
more is the pity. The predisposition to be obtrusive judgment, surely, the reality of
pleased resulting from a previous acquaint- the Devil's Peak, or any undiplomatic part
ancy, spreads birdlime over the pages of a of his person or property, is preferable.
journal: we travel hand-in-hand with one Again, when the avowed topic is the resem-
known to us, sharing alike joys and sor- blance between some Portuguese and Eng-
rows; an interest is given to the log-book, lish height, the Cambrian mount mocks us
be it ever so long, and a life infused into under the cloud of “ (i. 141); while
the jokes, be they ever so drowsy. On the Helvellyn, by the magic of a name, would
other hand, sad and serious is the change have fixed and identified the comparison.
which comes over the spirit when dealing Let us hope that these alpine mists will be
with the unknown; only compare the pri- blown away in the second edition, and every
vate delight with which the memoranda blank converted into a prize.
of my last tour” are submitted to by dutiful Meanwhile No. 1 is the arithmetical
wife and daughter, with the weariness of equivalent of letter I, which represents the
the flesh public, which has no predilections, authoress, and le style fait la dame. Kind,
when the tourist, yielding to family pres- considerate, and gentle, she unites to a seri-
sure, rushes into type, the dispeller of do- ous mind a cheerful temper and a lively
mestic illusions. Be it noted, then, that imagination; a healthy. tone runs, like a
the party in the present instance consisted vein of silver, through her narrative, which
of four persons, a wedded pair who chape- is free from any alloy of affectation or false
ron an unmarried couple; they wish, how- sentimentality. Nor is she a smellfungus
ever, to travel incognito, for the names of searching for weeds where roses grow, or
these loving, galloping, eating, drinking, setting down everything a wilderness from
and thinking beings are only shadowed by Braga to Barcelona. With our happily
initials, or mystified by vacuums, which na constituted student in Nature's school, every
ture abhors. Unknown values may indeed sense becomes an inlet to pure enjoyment;
be expressed as it pleases the wise in alge- and we shall see that
bra, but Hymen, Cupid, and critics protest
against such hieroglyphics as W plus H for " The meanest floweret of the Dale,
wives and husbands, or 1 minus U for.

The simplest note that swells the gale,

The common sun, the air, the skies, bachelors and spinsters. Unsightly dashes, To her are opening Paradise.” by breaking continuity of text, worry a reader's eye no less than the meaningless Ever on the look-out for the excellent, her gaps weary his mind; and the adventures ege is blind only to errors, her heart open of Alphabet in search of the picturesque are to every virtue. An unclouded ray of her tiresome as allegory, better than the best of own sunshine within gilds every discomfort, which, said Dr. Johnson, is the portrait of which, trying on such a tour to the iron even a dog that we know. Individuality frame of man, is borne with unrepining paswampt by consonants becomes an X Y Z tience by a woman-and this too, as she at the coffee-house; the best women in the gracefully says “an invalid who had only world, when designated by vowels, have no left her native bills for a warmer climate, character at all. We object altogether to as a rain-vexed bird comes out from the such sentences as follow, which spot many wood to dry its feathers, and take a strong a page in these volumes :

flight home again.” The balmy south has,

we rejoice to infer, strengthened the plum* At half past 4, P..., we set off, accompanied age of this stricken dove ; she has happily by Colonel B

his brother the prebendary, winged her way back to her Cumbrian nest, Major B

the Adjutant of Colonel P-~'s regiment, and Major R

of the Cavalry.”—

and cut down her feathers into excellent Vol. i., p. 3.

pens, as her lord, tired of war's alarms, “ J. and I., Mr. and Mr. H- -, all pulled seems to have previously moulded his sword up at once.”—Vol. i., p. 143.

into plough-shares. He, too, must accept: Vol. XII. No. I.


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" Mr.

our congratulations on his partner's conva-days, after the immortal Dalgetty's practice,
lescence. A sick wife curtails marriage of all went on smoothly as a marriage bell,
many comforts, and perplexes even a model- and the commander-in-chief cracked his
husband-which the husband of this tour joke and bottle to his own and every-
evidently is, in the opinion of the most com- body's content; but when matters turned
petent judge. Bold, brave, and deserving out wrong, as will happen in that lardless,
of the fair, he sustains throughout the one- mulish, Moorish land, the great Captain was
rous character of man-of-all-work, fighting not to be trifled with :-
and paying for all, as John Bull (we need
not tell him) generally does when roaming “Our evil genius, in this pleasant ramble, the
in the Peninsula. The lady dutifully and muleteer, is always drinking-always in a rage.
duly designates him as our commanding fish and obstreperous churl, he should thenceforth

now told him that as he was such a selos
officer ;' and we admire in limine his always go on foot-adding that he would • break
marching orders :—“Leave your band- his head if he saw him make another attempt to
boxes behind at home, and take nothing mount that mule while she was in our service.
that you can do without : economy is the The muleteer dropt astern.”—P. 102.
life of the army” (i. 43). Short and
sweet this, and no mistake, as F. M. would

There is an instinctive persuasion in your say; but to a married and locomotive gen- grimacing foreigner that a quiet Englishman tleman, a lady plus bag and minus maid is who civilly intimates that he shall be obliga pearl of price. Our old soldier, next to ed to knock him down, will be as good as studying the diminution of baggage, medi- his word. Indeed this capital menace was tates on the increase of the commissariat- found to be so effective, that it was ever

subsistence having always been the diffi- after resorted to by others, and at last beculty” in Spain and Portugal, as F. M. came proverbial as

-'s expresdiscovered when ridding them from Gaul's sion” (i. 104). Its propounder was all locust host. Whatever poets may predi- Dem

thenes in action if not in unadorned cate of the golden produce of the gardens of eloquence, when compared to his adjutant, Hesperia, in these prosaic days, stones are “Mr. ---, sleepy, dreamy, Dumby-blindy, more abundant there than loaves and fishes; as we often jestingly call him” (i., 65):hunger, not Harvey, is the best sauce, and

“ Tel brille au second rang qui s'éclipse au preknives are more plentiful than forks or

mier." blackberries. In this land of


and fasting, for one kitchen there are five hun- Full of the milk of human kindness, there dred altars, for one cook a thousand priests, was no souring this sweet Dumby-blindyinsomuch that an eminent French savant deaf alike to the quips and cranks of female and Membre de l'Institut has pronounced tongues, as proof to the pitiless pelting of the cuisinier Espagnol to be a pure mythos. man's wit. Many were the tricks upon tra“At end to the provend” is the essence of vellers which his absent, awkward habits Peninsular guide-books, which this com- suggested “perched” at one time “ on manding officer" also has evidently digest- a tall brown Rosinante, whose hip-bones ed, for the wholesome effects are evident protruded awfully ;” another time

flounthroughout the pages of his faithful Gur- dering out of his bed like a drowsy porwoodina ;-4. g.

But the winds that sweep across

the gulf which now parts him from his fair “We made our way to an English lodging; persecutors, waft an amende that will make house ; unluckily it was full. Mr. asked for breakfast, at all events.'


up for all. Manos blancas no ofenden ; Vol. i., p. 136.

white hands can do no wrong, and some “ In Senhor Gwe found a highly intelli- wounds which ladies inflict they alone can gent companion. He sent us some wine in the cure. morning, and also two bottles of Scotch ale, which one of our two cavaliers stowed away for “The dreamy, quiet, clever Mr. H_ is gone future service, as a juice far more precious in this far, far away to the New World. When last we latitude than champagne or tokay. • Put that heard of him, he was among the smart men' down in your journal, said Mr.- • What?' who dwell in Natchez. I should not be at all sur• The two bottles of ale, and the good fellow who prised, when next we receive tidings of him, to sent them us.' So here they are duly recorded." learn that he is smoking his cigar among the -Vol. i., p. 53.

Choctaw or Chickasaw Indians. I hope he is not

as irrecoverably gone from us as the treacherous When thus victualled with vivers for three bonds of Mississippi. If these pages should ever

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reach his hand, some of them may serve to light comforter, be there called curtained-at his am ber-mouthed meerschaum ; but this one page least our fair one's siestas smack strongly he will preserve, for I think he will not be sorry of Robin Hood and the free forest ; they to know that in sending him our Minho tour in a printed form, both Mr. and I echo, in regard pitch their tent wherever they list, and there to him, the words of a venerable bard addressed to they make their bed. a valued friend and fellow-traveller in Italy :

“ As soon as we arrived, hooks were screwed to “Companion !

four trees, and my Indian hammock and J-'8 These records take-and happy should we be,

were slang. Into them we got without delay, Were but the gift a meet return to thee

and were asleep in five minutes; a tiny clear For kindnesses that never ceased to flow,

brooklet tinkling along just under us on its way, And prompt self-sacrifice, to which we owe to the river. While we slept, the gentlemen had Far more than any heart but ours can know."! our cold dinner set out on a table, also al fresco.

Vol. i., p. 203. When all was prepared, we were called; and

after we had dined under the oaks, we retired to In ingeniously tormenting this excellent our hammocks again, and slept for two or three “H,” “I” was naturally followed by “J;' hours more under the greenwood trees, till man for thus is expressed a maiden fair, buxom, and horse were ready to start. J— mounted, blithe, and debonnaire, and worth a wilder singingness of professors of A B C and algebra.

Come, stain your cheeks with nut or berry, In the matter of names, Jaqueline, with You'll find the gipsy's life is merry.' her pretty nose aquiline, might have passed ; but to us, as we read the record of her But she, poor girl! is in no need of the gipsy cos.

metic, for sun and air, on this tour, have already "Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles

stained her cheeks nut-brown.”_Voli., 150. Such as hang on Hebe's cheek, And love to live in dimple sleek,"

Assuredly he who induces J— dash to

change her name quicker than her complexJ became Jane—the Jane of men, “ in hea- ion, and for better, will jog through life's ven yclept Euphrosine.” She is the sun- weary journey with companion pure, sparkbeam of the party; more joyous than Miss ling, and dancing on a sunlit crystal brook, Joy of the joyous Titmarsh; to-day “ she that runs sidelong to the dry, dusty highrides a black horse, well-bred, but rather way. fond of kicking;” to-morrow,

a white It was in the merry month of May, 1845, steed given to prancing ;” all colors come “in dirty weather more like November, "" alike to her, when cantering, as to Mr. Jo- that the magician steam, transported our seph Hume, when voting; away she goes, travellers from Southampton to Oporto, now galloping over sea-sands faster than" where Bacchus sits soberly at his ledger, Byron at Venice, on steeds the minions of vigilant to profit," not straddling a barrel, their race, “full of fun and frolic” like her-like the Cupid of our giu-palaces. The self, and animated, like all near her, with change effected in a few hours, surpassed “ her own merry voice.” Blue devils and passing from Dover to Calais-perhaps black cares Horatian, which mount behind from this globe to the Georgium Sidus; for every one of the other twenty-three letters true it is that in these threadbare days, a when on horseback, never perch on J's terra incognita within sixty hours' sail is pillion, whether she rambles over ramblas, clamoring piteously for a Captain Cook and the so-called roads of Portuguese courtesy, a red Murray. Our heroine re-echoes this being in reality like the graves and tomb- great fact, being continually ravished by stones of Lisbon's churchyards after the the charms of " uncommonness ;' yet the earthquake : n'importe ! she is the first out first flower that she notices is our own of bed, and up into the saddle, to carol little sea-sand bladder-plant;" and her first with the lark, and scent the morning air ; welcome to a new land is chequered with a the first at the folding star of eve to close farewell to dear old England. her eyelids with the flowers, regardless alike of noise, creepers, or counterpanes : short “It was at night the signal-gun of our English and sweet is her sleep; blessing on the steamer roused me from a deep sleep. I got up, man who invented it, saith Sancho, when opened the shutters. A full moon was shining tossed about in his excursions in this penin-brilliantly; the white breakers of the bar were as

visible as they were audible ; beyond the bar, sula, where, whatever be the case as regards southwards, the sea was as a plain of burnished, blankets, four-post beds have yet to be in- not gold, nor yet silver, but something between, vented. Neither can sleep, Shakspeare's which now glistened, now glittered, as the waves

rolled gently along. To the north all seemed exchange a salt for a fresh shower-bath, as wrapped in gloom; but in that direction my heart“ it did not rain, but pour, and we were then lay. l' again looked anxiously into the deep wet, not to the skin, but through it,”—– gloom, and a heave of some friendly wave brought into view a galaxy of bright stars floating upon passage performed frequently in “three the waters; it was as if a constellation had come minutes, and as effectually as if we had down from the heavens to rest upon these waters. been soused in the Douro."

. This hissingThese were lights from the steamer. I watched hot horseshoe operation, which cooled Falher long-now in sight, now out of sight-now staff, is recorded with his dry humor by one twinkling star, then again the whole constel. our Undines; yet a damp carpet-bag is an lation ; and so it continued for perhaps half an indifferent remedy in cases of hydrophobia, hour, when from a point midway between the vessel and the shore, and where before I had not especially when the inns are detestable; distinguished aught upon the water, rose up as by

but that's nothing !(i. 48.) Thus the enchantment a pillar of fire, which, after ascen- ladies, with hearts of lions and skins of ding to an immense height, made a graceful curve, mermaids, sit steaming and singing in the broke, and fell, not noiselessly, into the sea. sun, while their Mackintoshed cavaliers This was a rocket from the pilot's boat, on its re- croak like frogs, or Dr. Johnson, who

proturn to land ; a signal that all was right, and that tested that by no one thing ever discovered the steamer might pursue her way-which she instantly did, as I suppose, for not another star

was human happiness so much advanced as twinkled from the water's breast."-Vol. i., p. 18. by a good tavern; and to our poor way of

thinking, when on the road, the great RamThe party proceeded to San Joan de Foz bler and moralist was right. for sea-bathing. The contempt for ma

The established taste of the British marchines here would shock a Ramsgate puri- ket will have brandy in its port and bantan, as tents are merely pitched on the dits in its Peninsula sketches ;-but shore, to which persons of all sexes, ages, and ranks resort;

as for me," says our sensible heroine,“ though of

a sex in whom cowardice is no disgrace, I cannot “ while idlers, male and female, stand on the say that I anticipated hazard or required much ledges of rocks and on the sands, and gaze at them persuasion in rambling out of the beaten tracks in as they go into these mysterious cabins, attired in a country where so few English ladies ever travel their usual dresses, gay or sordid, and as they at all. Nor have I any personal adventure to recome out again--the women, clad to the throat in late; for, as we met none, I resisted the templa. coarse full robes of blue frieze (their hair beauti- tion of getting up a few moving accidents and fully arranged, braided on the forehead, secured by hairbreadth 'scapes, and of so giving to my Jourbands of riband, and hanging down the back in nal the attraction of a The truth is, long plaits, tied with ribbon, pink or blue, like the as I believe, that unless you lay yourself out for one which encircles the head); the men in jackets danger by some bravado, or some indiscretion of and trousers of the same material as the dresses of temper, or by neglect of such ordinary precautions the women. Assistants, both male and female, as are customary and reasonable, you may, when who look like cousin-germans to the Tritons, con- the country is not overrun with civil warriors, duct the bathers into the sea, and hold them while travel in Portugal as securely, if not so smoothly, there,-ducking and sousing them in every big as you can navigate the Thames from Vauxhall to wave, that comes threatening and storming over Richmond, or as you may ascend the Nile from them like a platoon of soldiers firing with a blank Cairo to the Cataracts, where, under the protectocartridge. An English person just landed on rate of Mehemet Ali, you have for the present no these shores, looks on the scene with wonder and chance of an adventure, if you do not make one distaste, and resolves that his wise or his daughters, for yourself.” who probably are also turning away from it as if they questioned the decorum of the exhibition, The few authentic cases of falling in with shall never be seen in such a situation. He and thieves, have, she is satisfied,“ arisen more they get accustomed to it, however, and the next, or less from a want of prudence in the paror perhaps before the expiration of this

ties robbed; and son, the fairest form that issues from the wave in a

any in cautious Londoner saturated blue frieze garment is that of his own might lose his purse or even his life in rowise or daughter.”—Vol. i., p. 10.

mantic fashion on Primrose Hill or Hamp

stead Heath." In most countries a judiSuch is the force of example, and so cious display of tempting baits may induce soon are strange habits adopted. After a letters out of horses, persons of unfastiproper amount of immersion and benefit, dious probity, to avail themselves of conveour travellers quit the shore for the inte nient cork-woods and lampless lanes; and rior, and visit the romantic and almost un- even such seems to have been the history of explored districts entre Douro y Minho-Mr. H- -'s accident-the only one of often, kowever, it would seem, merely to the sort that came under the journalist's

very sea.

personal knowledge—the melancholy up-1 riding in English fashion, and in English shot thereof being the loss of good Dumbġ- riding costume, in itself creates what the blindy's watch. Not the ghost even of a French call a sensation ; but to see her in departed robber was ungallant enough to such out-of-the-way corners the wonder was cross our ladies' own path. They were tenfold, and comical were the remarks we neither to be scared by shadows, nor the used to overhear, both in the town and reality of roughing it considerably on hired country. Nay, such was the rage for copyhacks, with a negation of bandboxes more ing the last new fashions, that at the next conformable to marching orders than com- carnival, when all devout Roman Catholics fortable to the fair sex, with whom to be dance and disguise themselves, an equestriseen is among the legitimate ends of travel, an mask appeared, to the rapture of streets as well as to see ; « Il faut souffrir pour and balconies, representing “an Engêtre belle." No sooner arrived at Barcel- lish lady.” “There she sat—and a shocklos than a Portuguese fidalgo

ing bad seat was hers-on a side saddle;

her long petticoat almost sweeping the came to pay

his respects, and to invite us, on the part of his wife, and mother, and daughters, to a much more at ease upon her head than she

and her black hat looking not

pavement, little ball, which they had suddenly determined on

on her saddle."

In Old England the quagetting up for us in honour of our letter of recommendation. We declined it, because we felt that lity of climate, creed, and causeways will we had no spare strength to waste on dancing, not permit those alfresco amusements which but must husband what we had for the hard work usher Lent in so agreeably in lands where before us..., I have since thought that it was a the spring is more advanced and the church stupid spiritless thing to refuse the ball. Our gen- less reformed ;-otherwise such in female tlemen thought it very stupid indeed, and accused bosoms is the spirit of contradiction and the us of a jealousy of the black eyes of the female charm of novelty, that Britannia when masfidalguia of Barcellos. No doubt we should have met as much of the best company of the place querading would doubtless adopt the ridas could have been collected on a brief summons, ing-habits of Lusitania. and we should have added something to our small

The modes of conveyance are antique, stock of knowledge of Portuguese provincial soci- and some of them classical. Ladies are ety at home. But besides the reason I have carried to balls on mules or donkeys, and given, I must own that I was shy. My want of to operas in “the family coach built in skill in the spoken language made me sure that I the tine of Noah,” and drawn by oxen, exshould bore and disappoint the kindness of our inviters. Some misgivings about the toilet, 100, actly as the matrons of ancient Rome took might have flitted before me, when I begged 10 be drives in their rhedas. excused. Carpet-bags are sorry wardrobes for ladies.”— Vol. i., p. 51.

“ A lady on a fine black mule was attended by a

gentleman on a very handsome black horse, and Having in our last Number treated the followed by two running footmen; and indeed they important article dress in many of its philo- the animals. The Senhor was dressed as any

had to run to keep up with the quick jog-trot of sophical and psychological bearings, we can English gentleman might be dressed for taking a only remark now, that this ruling passion, ride on the Steyne at Brighton. But his Senhora ! “one would not sure look frightful,” was She was the wonder. Attired in a rich black silk, implanted by nature in every female heart curiously fashioned, fitting tight to the figure, and from pure kindness to man. These “mis- showing off the well-rounded waist ; on her head givings,” reasonable in themselves, were a large square clear white muslin kerchief richly perfectly gratuitous in this case, for besides back and below the shoulders-rather standing off

embroidered round the edge, falling down the that there are some who when unadorned are from the shoulders and upon this a round beaver adorned the most, if attraction be, as it hat, of a shining jet black. The crown of the bat is with the glowworm, the leading principle was also round, with a little inclination to the suof female costume, then our amazons were gar-loaf shape--the brim might be three inches already equipped for the finest fancy-ball wide. The white kerchief did not appear on the ever given by Donna Maria da Gloria at forehead, but came out from under the bat, just be. her royal palace of Necessidades a word hind the ears, leaving an unohstructed view of a which we have been informed at the For- i encircled by massive gold chains, one of which

pair of magnificent gold ear-rings; the neck was eign-office refers to makeshifts, not necessa

depended as low as the waist.”— Vol. i., p. 51. ries. In all times and places our fair I and J— were the observed of all observers, and How well J- would look in all this ! but the envy and admiration of the surrounding it is to the charms of nature that our fair dark sex.

“To see a lady on horseback, author, although feelingly alive to beauty

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