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dexterity at the pastime, semi-tropical beauty. To the mind of had never before found a southern the Scribe, of all the courses that he golf-course that was to his liking. The has played, it resembles most the Counbrowns over which one is supposed to try Club at Greenwich, Connecticut, putt at St. Augustine, Palm Beach, and and the French course of La Boulie. It Nassau are abominations. The Ber was laid out for the benefit of the avermuda course has turf greens, but the age paying member, rather than with

an eye to stiffening up the game of the resident "pro” and the club's two crack amateurs.

There is one hole, the eleventh, which, in sheer beauty, probably rivals any golf-hole in the world. From a high tee the fair green slopes down to a winding river two hundred yards away. On the farther bank the approach to the high plateau of green is between two noble royal-palm trees. Super-drivers have occasionally been holehigh from the tee. A two hundred - yard drive, straight down the course, too often finds the water hazard.

For that reason the hole is perhaps not the best of golf. But even the man who would use the Mona Lisa or the Venus of Milo as a lie, provided he found his ball perched upon one or the other, might readily overlook that.

Of our game that day all that shall be said is that if the

diplomatic corps of lies in the open! They recall what the United States could have seen its Horace Hutchinson wrote of the days representative running down thirty-foot when golf was first being taken up in putts, a certain secretary of legation Scotland and the Scottish kings played would have been adjudged worthy of over Blackheath: "If the soil then was the ambassadorship to the Court of St. as Ainty as it is to-day, no wonder that James's. they governed so badly.” The Havana On the veranda of the Country Club course has everything that belongs to a may be seen a sprinkling of Cuban men first-class modern course, and something and women. But the club, as an instiof its own besides-wonderful turf and tution, is essentially the diversion of the

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IN THE SUBURBS OF HAVANA-MARIANAO

resident or the visiting American. As other half to fiction. The choice of ardent a sport-lover as any in the world, reading is not left to the reader, but the Cuban is, temperamentally, out of is governed by a ballot system. The tune with golf. He wants something tobacco workers elect among themselves with quicker action. The bull-ring a president, secretary, and treasurer. passed with the Spanish rule. Under The workmen contribute the fund which the American occupation, Gen. Leon pays the reader's salary. The selection ard Wood felt that a substitute was of novels is a deliberate process. The needed, and introduced pelota. In a reader judges the period required for few years it was found necessary to a certain book, and a few days before suppress the new sport. Not that the he is to finish one the secretary holds Cubans did not take to it. They took an election to determine what novel to it with such enthusiasm that half of should be taken up next. As many as the population became bankrupt through fifty different novels may be proposed · extravagant betting. A second substi at one of the elections, but the choice tute was found in the introduction of usually centers on three or four of wide American baseball. In Havana it is note. Some years ago sentiment in played on the grounds of the Almendares one of the factories was divided between Club on the Paseo de Tacon, opposite Quo Vadis? and Père Goriot. Finally, the Botanical Gardens, the site of the Sienkiewicz's book was chosen by one bull-ring in former days. For the lovers hundred and eighty votes to one hundred of horse-racing there is the race-track and fifty. But most often the choice falls at Marianao, with its horde of Ameri on modern novels, preferably those by can horses, jockeys, trainers, and book- Spanish writers. No year passes in any makers.

Havana factory, it is said, without a Just as the traveler in Dresden is reading of Don Quixote. Among English supposed to visit the china-works of novels read are Vanity Fair, Oliver Meissen, and in Chicago the stock- Twist, A Tale of Two Cities, and some yards, in Havana the accepted sight is of the melodramatic stories of Wilkie one of the cigar and cigarette factories. Collins and Hugh Conway: Some of On the eve of departure from home you the English poets are favorites, in parwill have been burdened with commis ticular Byron. Only one American sions. According to the sex of the book has ever had repeated reading in friend, the commission will be to buy Havana cigar-factories, and that fell cigars or mantillas. If the former, pin

into disuse about twenty years ago. It the man down to a definite choice. If was Uncle Tom's Cabin. Victor Hugo it is the Corona Corona that he wants, is an unfailing favorite. let him say so. If the Laranaga, how No matter how well known Sherlock many? In the case of the mantilla, Holmes is in England and the United throw yourself on the mercy of the States, to realize the full measure of his countrywoman nearest at hand, no mat notoriety one must ramble through Galter whether or not you have ever seen liano and San Raphael. There will be her before. She will understand, cheer- found, behind gaudily colored covers, a fully accept the commission, and prob- Señor Sherlock Holmes of Iberian apably derive huge amusement from a pearance and deportment who is the day's conscientious labor in your be hero of an endless series of adventures, half in O'Reilly or Obispo. Then in the the very titles of which would mystify cigar or cigarette factories, what im and astonish Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. pressed the Scribe most was not the These paper-covered books represent little brown man rolling deftly with his the imaginative work of various hackfingers, but the voice from the gallery writers, and are sold by the tens and above, the voice of the paid reader, hundreds of thousands. At the top of translating the news of the European the cover there is a portrait of the creaWar or declaiming a chapter from a book tor of the science of deduction, a porby Victor Hugo. For three hours every trait which in general conforms to the day this reading goes on, half the time picture first drawn a quarter of a cenbeing given to newspapers, and the tury ago by Doctor Doyle in the pages

VOL. CXXXVI.-No. 812.-28

am

of A Study in Scarlet, but so unconscious- vailing sentiment that was expressed ly, yet subtly, altered by the crude artist by the somewhat austere but altogether that it is a Spaniard whom we see in- charming lady from Boston: "1 stead of the lean, athletic Englishman justly indignant,” she confessed, on the of the original invention. How many eve of departure for the north. “I of these tales have been printed it is feel that I was inveigled to Havana on impossible to say. Here are a few of false pretenses. I had heard so much the titles that caught the eye of the about the wicked movies. I have been Scribe on the Havana book-stalls: The to every cinema-house in the city. I Seller of Corpses, The Bloody Hammer, have spent all my money, and I have In the Pittsburgh School of Crime, The seen nothing more dreadful than Charlie Infamous Gang of Cairo, Jack the Ripper, Chaplin.” The Forgers of London, Sherlock Holmes Years ago, in the columns of Charles and the Opium Smokers.

Dickens's All the Year Round, George A great deal has been written of the Augustus Sala wrote of Calle Obispo in night life of Havana. Except that it a series on “The Great Streets of the carries farther into the early hours of World." There to-day are the heavy the morning, due to the rest enforced cornices, the overhanging balconies, the by the intense heat of the midday sun, sparring signs, and the awnings that in it differs very little from the night life the

sunny

hours are stretched from roof of any other city of the south. The to roof, creating an atmosphere of yellow same theater and opera-goers—the local dusk, just as when he saw it; a quaint guide-book will tell of the wonders of and altogether charming streak of shadthe Teatro Nacional, the third largest ow in the midst of Havana-in-thetheater in the world—the same flaneurs sunshine. Its suggestion of an Eastern at the café tables that would be seen in bazaar was noted by Sala, and has been any other city where the outdoor street noted by every observant traveler since. life prevails. In February and March, But Sala was writing up to a title. the then new dancing was being furious- Obispo is not one of the great streets of ly pursued. There were nightly endur the world; it never was, nor is it likely ance dances in the gardens back of the to be. So may Broadway be termed, or Miramar. In 1917. dancing had gone Piccadilly, or the Avenue of the Champs out apparently as irrevocably as ping- Élysées, or the Cannebière of Marseilles, pong

or the Ringstrasse, or Michigan Avenue. There is another phase to the night But Calle Obispo no more than the life of Havana that properly belongs to Waterport Street of Gibraltar, or the the past, too. Once San Isidro, a nar Esplanade of Tarascon. Of course, it row, winding street running from the was of a different Havana that Sala harbor walls to the railway station, wrote in the eighteen-sixties. The Maleblared and flaunted in evil glory. Trav- con, the building of which reclaimed a elers from all over the world talked of part of the city that had been used as it with mingled repugnance and admira a dumping-ground, was the work of tion. It was not an outraged sense of Gen. Leonard Wood. The old Calle civic virtue that wrought the reclama del Prado-Street of the Meadowtion. Hard-headed business did that. dates back to the despotic but conThe American-controlled railway, want structive Tacon, Governor-General in ing the ground occupied by San Isidro the first half of the nineteenth century; and adjacent streets for a future freight but the new Prado was largely remodstation, had the buildings condemned eled during the American occupation. as unsafe.

But, old or new, the Prado has always Also, formerly prospective visitors to overshadowed Obispo, which may be Havana heard much of the latitude al- spoken of as the “next street to O'Reillowed to the moving-picture displays. ly,” just as O'Reilly is the “next street That, too, has all been changed. It is to Obispo. to be feared that many American trav After all, the impression that a city's elers do not regard the amelioration streets make upon one is largely a matwith entire approval. It was the pre ter of the streets to which one has been

accustomed.
Once, many years ago,

It was in Havana that the Scribe a French tramp-steamer carried the first learned the joys of the Rubberneck. Scribe from Marseilles to Gibraltar, with For years, in many cities, he had surstops at Oran, Nemours, and Melilla. veyed it with intolerant eyes from the After the Cannebière, that spacious curb. With a smug snobbishness once avenue of which the Marseillaises are so regarded as superior sophistication, he proud—“if Paris had a Cannebière it had contemplated the smiling faces of would be a little Marseilles,” is the say- the eager, stretching sight-seers. It was ing there—it was hard to turn around in all very well for them, but there was Waterport Street.

But returning to such a thing as being above and beyond Gibraltar after three days across the following the Man from Cook's Perstrait, among the alleys of Tangier, sonally Conducted Tours, and the rauWaterport Street seemed as broad as cous voice of the megaphone pirate. But the moral law. Thus, in Havana, it is as we grow older we go back to the simthe contrast that impresses the traveler ple joys, or are less self-conscious. And from the United States and causes him so it was under an “Ask Mr. Somebody" to seek out with wonder the Loma del sign that the Scribe booked his place, and Angel.

contentedly took his seat. That there is no middle class in “The finest Spanish cooking in the Havana, that its people are all exceed- world, a cuisine that no hotel or resingly rich or pitifully poor, is one of the taurant in Madrid can equal.” Such first bits of information that the Amer- had been one of the Illustrator's promican resident imparts to the visitor. You ises. We found The Two Brothers one hear stories of the fabulously wealthy night. It looked out over the harbor Cubans, the sugar kings, and the to from a waterside street near the wharves. bacco kings. Along the Prado are the On the second floor there was a dininghouses in which they live. You hear of terrace. The "finest Spanish cooking the pride of the pure Spanish blood, in the world.” But that must have been which holds itself aloof, and which sends The Two Brothers of other years. As prospective mothers back to Spain in we found it, the whole atmosphere of order that the child may be spared the the place was chilled and dispirited. The ignominy of Cuban birth. In sharp tale of a glory that had waned was read contrast are the half-clad and under in the crumpled shirt-fronts of the waitnourished children of the poor. But ers, in the dreary slowness of the service, to the casual eye the poverty that exists in the quality of the fare itself. Is there is a happy Latin poverty which neither anything more pathetic than the ressolicits nor provokes sympathy. Slums taurant of yesterday? We seemed to be there may be, but they do not repel. sitting before the very_ghosts of viands. The squalor that sickens and saddens There is a story by Leonard Merrick the soul is seen seldom save in the cities called “Little Flower in the Wood.” It of the north. The ragged shirt of the is the tale of a shabby little restaurant of poor Havanese does not move to pity, Montmartre known as The White Wolf, but to envy. On the surface, at least, which, on the verge of failure, is raised he is far more comfortable in the sun by the whim of the reigning dancer of shine than the American visitor. If he the moment to fame and prosperity. is moved to mild industry he can preside Years pass. The restaurant flourishes, over a tobacco kiosk, or sell state lottery but the dancer loses all that life holds tickets. The population of Havana is to attract. One night she finds her way estimated at something like two hundred back to The White Wolf, to sit in the and fifty thousand. Doubtless an under corner and to live again in dreams the statement. There must be at least that glorious days that have gone.

The number of cigarette and lottery-ticket taurant, once gone to decay, can never venders. What of the cab- and taxi come back to relive the hours of brightdrivers? What of the thirty thousand

It is an entombed coffin of members of the Clerks' Club, and the dead reveries, of fashions that have twenty-five thousand members of the passed. Centro Gallego?

So no more of The Two Brothers.

res

ness.

Sinjinn, Surviving

BY ARMISTEAD C. GORDON

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a late summer Jonas?” asked Ommirandy. “You alafternoon at Kingsmill, ways is got some grunt ur ’nuther agin’ though if perchance sump’n. Who done rob Janey's henyou might have spoken roos' lars' night?"

afternoon” to 'Dey ain' been nobody, marm,” reany of the denizens, sponded the patriarch. Dey ain' no

white or black, of that body done rob no hen-roos'. But I gwi' demesne of fixed customs and ancient tell you-all sump’n what's wusser'n stealtraditions the word would have been re in' chickens. It tuk me a long time fur garded with critical suspicion. After ter think it out, but I done think it. An' twelve meridian it was always "eve Mr. Sinjinn, he sesso, too.” ning” at Kingsmill until midnight. It “I boun' you think it out, ef it's had never occurred to the “white folks” sump'n low-down,” commented Ommithat it might be otherwise; and the

and the randy, tartly. “I boun' you is, Jonas.” faith of the negroes was founded on an Yes, marm," continued the old man, early verse in the Good Book, read to serenely. "I is, an' I gwi' tell it ter ye. them by Mis' on Sabbath days in the I had de 'casion fur ter advance de loom-room, “And the evening and the Rev’un’ten dollars 'long o’de ten ur mo' morning were the first day.

years I done been one o' de deacons, an' The kitchen windows were all open, ain' had no money fur ter pay my dues; and the breeze from the river moderated an' bein' ez how I ain' got de cash jes the heat of the hickory fire in the big convenient, I conclude I gwi' try fur ter chimney-place, whose right jamb showed borry it f'om de man at de cote-house a space of deep attrition in the bricks what makes his livin' robbin' de niggers from the whetting of many kitchen on intrus'. He one o' dem scalawags knives since the days of the colony. which you-all done heerd Mars' Jeems

“Notice dem w'ared-away bricks?". tell about 'em. Well, sir, I went down Ommirandy reminiscently queried of dar, an' I sez tep de man, 'I wanter Delphy. Dey ain' w'ared away no borry ten dollars.' He say, 'Fur how whar's, 'scusin' o' dat side. Does you long?' I say, 'How much you gwi know what dat signify, Philadelphy?” charge?' He say, 'One mont', two

“Nor'm," responded Delphy, scoop mont', three mont', fo' mont', five ing a corn dumpling out of the big pot mont', six mont'?' I say, “Looky here, with a long-handled iron ladle for Uncle white man, I ain' got no time fur ter be Jonas's supper. “What do it?”

foolin' wid all dem mont's. How much “Dat shows dar ain' nuver been no do it cos' me fur one mont'?' He say, lef?-handed cooks in dis kitchen sence it Two dollar an' a harf a mont', an' I was built. Dey all done sharpen dey takes out de charge.' I say, 'I gwi’ knives wid dey right hand.”

think 'bout it.' Den I goes off an' sets “Lissen at dat, now, .will ye?" whis down in de fence-corner an' figgers. I pered Ariadne to Evadne. "Ain' she figgers it dis here way.” smart?”

Uncle Jonas illustrated his calculation "I dun'no' 'bout no lef’-handed cooks by placing the end of his right forefinger in dis here kitchen," interjected Uncle in the palm of his left hand and holding Jonas, who sat patiently waiting for his it there. dumpling and pot-liquor; “but dey "I sez ter myse'f: 'I dun'no' when I p'int'ly is some lef'-minded folks 'roun' gwi' git de money fur ter pay dat ten dis here country.

dollars back. Durfo', ef I borrys it fur “What de matter wid you now, one mont', an' pays two-fifty cash,

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